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Check Engine Light Suzuki DF115

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  • #16
    Originally posted by bigdude2468 View Post
    This is silly. If in fact the CEL is on then pull the codes or have a Suzuki do it for you. The reasons for a CEL are way too numerous to assume it is electrical related. Just like you car the Suzuki outboards, the ECM manages and monitors your engine operating systems and it has detected a fault. The fault could be real or the sensor may be faulty but trying to chase a code by checking every possibility is IMHO like looking for a needle in a haystack.
    Good luck with that, bigdude. With no faults showing on the CEL (no flashed codes) and every sensor on the engine covered by the flashed codes, and considering that the dealer will gladly empty your wallet by replacing, one-by-one, every sensor on the powerhead after finding that no code shows on the computer, either, why would one not want to at least put a little time and effort into inspecting the system on his own?

    In the first place, most boats' wiring systems need a good visual inspection and general refreshing every couple of years, anyway. Secondly, one learns a few things about his boat each time, thus increasing his chance to know how to correct a problem should one arise while he's on the water. Third, people are just too quick to waste money on their possessions these days rather than to invest a little of their own sweat.

    In addition, the factory manual, as well as several peoples' experiences have shown a solid CEL to indicate an electrical problem related to a low voltage sensed by the ECM.

    My opinion, of course, but certainly not any more silly than yours.
    Mike
    μολὼν λαβέ

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    • #17
      what you say is true, but just blindly looking for "bad connections" is just like chasing ghosts, a dealer would charge very little just to be 100% sure there is no stored code, which just might narrow down the search! might not too, but at least you know, the ****en rule of trouble shooting, "if you don't know what it is, make 100% sure you know what it isn't"

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      • #18
        I've been praying to the "Suzuki ECM" gods now for two weeks to show me a sign, any sign as to why the CE light stays on, even built a small "ECM" shrine in the backyard. Have some travel I need to do so I will not get to look into the problem any deeper ... but my son will continue to look for anything obvious or otherwise in my absents. I/we love everything mechanical so I do not mind looking and learning first, the last place I want to be is at a dealership. But maybe that's where it will get resolved. I absolutely appreciate this forum and the folks who have responded to this issue. I'll keep you posted if we find anything. One additional question in the meantime ... is there a specific sequence or procedure a dealership follows when "disconnecting from the ECM" after the codes or engine hours are read?

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        • #19
          Did you get any further with this one?

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          • #20
            Originally posted by newbee View Post
            I've been praying to the "Suzuki ECM" gods now for two weeks to show me a sign, any sign as to why the CE light stays on, even built a small "ECM" shrine in the backyard. Have some travel I need to do so I will not get to look into the problem any deeper ... but my son will continue to look for anything obvious or otherwise in my absents. I/we love everything mechanical so I do not mind looking and learning first, the last place I want to be is at a dealership. But maybe that's where it will get resolved. I absolutely appreciate this forum and the folks who have responded to this issue. I'll keep you posted if we find anything. One additional question in the meantime ... is there a specific sequence or procedure a dealership follows when "disconnecting from the ECM" after the codes or engine hours are read?
            When you turn the ignition switch to on, battery voltage will flow from the ignition switch, to the main power relay which powers up your ignition system, injectors, fuel pump ect, it also powers up your ecu via pin 30 grey wire. If the ecm detects battery voltage below nine volts for thirty seconds it will bring on the check engine light with the buzzer, you don't have the buzzer coming on. Check the battery voltage at pin thirty and do a voltage drop test on the ecu earths pin pin 10 20 32 42 black wires there should be no voltage on them if that all checks out your problem may be inside the monitor or ecu.

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            • #21
              hello there.i have a df70a and i keep getting check engine alarm .i checked the manual and shows that is low voltage.i put new battery and renew the battery cables as well.the alarm stopped for a month but now is back.the alarm comes on only on really low revs while trolling after 1 to 2 hours .like 2,3knots speed.if i go faster its ok.whats the next step?the alternator ?

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              • #22
                It suggests a issue with charging or the engine wiring....

                Can you check/test the main battery leads to the engine? Internal corrosion in those cables does happen sometimes. If you flex the cables and they feek hard or crunchy there is a problem. Of course the best test is a resistance test with a multimeter.

                And also check the master battery switch, if its corroded in there, then that will also cause problems.

                If all that looks good, next step is to get alternator/regulator checked by auto elect or Suzuki mechanic to see if charging is working properly.

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                • #23
                  thank you thats helpfull

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                  • #24

                    After changing the main cables from the motor to the switch, a "check engine" alarm occurs. Turns on twice and then nothing for 3 seconds. The engine is DF115, 2005.

                    I forgot to mention that the alarm is only active from 1500-3600rpm. When I drive below 1500rpm and over 3600rpm everything is fine
                    Last edited by Zoks1508; 08-14-2019, 09:49 AM.

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                    • #25
                      I have a '08 Suzuki DF115 with only 80hrs that is giving me an oil light on the analog gauge. (Pic of gauge for reference)

                      (I HAVE DONE THE OIL CHANGE RESET PROCEDURE 3X TIMES, NO JOY)

                      The oil light illuminates as soon as the battery main switch is turned on, regardless of the key switch position, running or not. The light stays solid until battery main switch is turned off. I have checked for loose fittings and have not found any.

                      Any ideas?

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                      • #26
                        Newbee! can you confirm that the Alarm/Buzzer is working is working ?

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                        • #27
                          Newbee- you said:
                          check the voltage at the battery, 12.7 (not running) and the voltage gauge at the dash (with the key on/not running) reflects the same reading. Battery is, as I recall is, 4/2013.

                          Newbee
                          start with replacing the battery
                          a 6 year old battery is past its time

                          the other thing- when you turn on the key are you getting any alarm to sound?
                          I am am wondering if the alarm was disabled ?
                          everything I see in the manual says if that light is on- the alarm should sound.
                          Art

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