Crankshaft removal dt65

[GeneralPatton]

Hello all.

Has anyone got a how to guide or can advise on how to remove the crankshaft from a 1990 dt65.
Can I go at it from carb side ?? or does this require removing the engine altogether.
I think I've had a reed valve come off and go into crankshaft. I will be inspecting it tomorrow to see if I can find it through reed valves.
Fingers crossed I can find the bit that broke off. That is, if its even a reed valve !
Im just thinking encase I cant find it. What am I looking at to remove the crankshaft and get right in there to give it good looking over for the missing piece.
any advice please.
I've had this happen before and luckily the engine was ok replaced valve and all was fine. But this time it stopped dead and sounded like something tinny sounding pinged around. Engine was stopped and has not run since. Haven't even tried to start it in fear of causing more damage. The fly wheel will move back and forward so its not sized but stops at 3 quarter turns and feels like something is stopping it from going any further.
I will open it up and see what I see. At this point I'm assuming it's the reed valves.

[Solarman]

You won't be able to pull the crankshaft with motor still mounted. You could pull carbs and intake?

Good luck.

[Hoosmatroos]

If you want to dismantle it then you have to remove the block. But when you remove the complete intake, it's maybe possible to use an endoscope to see if some pieces are in. And with a strong small magnet to pick out the pieces?

[GeneralPatton]

So. Today I removed the carbs and reed plate. As soon as I removed it, bad news. Little bits everywhere !! A piece fell out into my hand. So started to go deeper. Eventually removed the block and took crankshaft out. Blew a piston. Bits of it had broken off. Lucky that the walls of the head still look good. No scratching. I removed piston pin. I can now clean everything and get a new piston. However I'e noticed now that the bits have wrecked the big end bearing and needs to be replaced. I' assuming that the crankshaft is compressed on as I do not see a way to take the con rod off to replace bearing. Do I need to have this taken off with a press or is there a way to do it myself ?.
Thanks for the replys

[Hoosmatroos]

It's not a difficult job if you have the tools. I presume you have something like this:

[GeneralPatton]

I was looking at a few videos of it done but on each video they are removing the crankshaft bearing from the end. The bit I'm trying to split is at the end of the connecting rod. Big end bearing. Might be a daft question but can you put this tool at any point along the shaft and split it. Then push it back with a vice ?

[mphelle8vld]

what is the serial number of this motor?

[Hoosmatroos]

Can you post a picture?

[GeneralPatton]

Screenshot_20180316-205225.jpg

[mphelle8vld]

You originally posted 06502.012126 as your serial number which is a 1990, however, your crank is the older style, has the powerhead been swapped? Any photos?

If you can find a good shop with the proper jigs and press you could just get the crankpin, conn rod, and bearing.

[GeneralPatton]

That's strange. I don't think so. Well ! it might have I suppose but not as far as I know. What's the difference how do you know that's the serial number alright Screenshot_20180316-213133.jpg
I have had a look at the diagrams for the 1990
Screenshot_20180315-005815.jpg
I need to replace No9 and new piston.

[Hoosmatroos]

Ah oke, that piece is pressed together. You can't fix that yourself. If split then it had to be balanced again.

Or bring it to this guy

[GeneralPatton]

Just thinking now. Are the big end bearing (no9) the same for both. I can't see any differences. Is there ?

[GeneralPatton]

Yes, I think that's what I will do. There is a place called O D motors that fixes up crank shafts here in Belfast. I think I will get the bearing and take it there and get them to press and balance it.

Any tips or things to look out for when rebuilding??

Also I think I now know what caused this. It must have been a lost reed valve.
I had one come off a while back. Fixed up the reed valves, and for the life of me never did find the missing bit. Despite a real good look inside with magnets and scope looked everywhere inside. I think it has stayed hidden until last run and has only now caused the damage. Lesson learned !

[mphelle8vld]

It looks like they continued using the seal (16) until 1992. The shop won't know what parts are needed until it's disassembled, can they also hone the cylinder for the new rings? Do you have a factory manual?