2007 DF50 - help removing IAC valve please

[mike.floutier]

Hi, I've diagnosed that my IAC valve is faulty and I'd appreciate a little help in changing it or possibly cleaning it.

Has anyone done either of these?

Is it practicable to remove it on the water?

I've still got a couple of months before I have it out of the water and would like try something or other.

At present it seems to be stuck closed. The only way I can start from cold is by opening the throttle slightly and wait for the motor to warm up before being able to return to neutral and engage gear.

Many thank So!

[mike.floutier]

Ok, I'm at the boat and have been able to get at the IAC valve, and it's associated silencer and pipe work fairly easily.

I've ruled out a blockage in the pipework in the customary fashion.

Having verified that it would start, I then tried opening the idle screw one full turn. It then started easily. Next, returning this screw to its default position, the motor slowed and stopped.

What I think I'll do is leave the idle screw at the +1 full turn position - seems to equate to around 1000 revs. I'll then remove the IAC valve for further investigations; having blocked it's associated pipework.

[mike.floutier]

Ok, well the unit is showing open circuit and I can't see any way of opening it up so it's scrap now.

I was interested to see that the exact same unit is used on Suzuki Swift cars. Not much help though as I can't source them in the UK.

Anyway I've set the idle screw at 1000 revs and we'll see. The proof of the pudding...

I did read an article about iac valves, that they were generally phased out in favour of direct fly by wire control of the whole air intake.

[Murray]

Shifting might be a little violent?

[Moonlighter]

The IAC’s are made by Mitsubishi electronics for Suzuki and many others.

Google the part number printed on it and you will likely find a supplier who stocks the Mitsubishi part, even though it may be for another manufacturer’s model. It will be half the price.....

Just check the plugs. Best to stick with a part made by Mitsubishi rather than a knockoff.

[mike.floutier]

Thanks Guys, regarding the violent shifting 1000 revs doesn't seem too harsh. What I may do is warm it up at say 1200 then reduce to 850 or 900 before setting off. Then, when going back to idle, I'll take it gently to simulate the dash pot effect.

Good point about the part number on the unit itself Moonlighter, I had noticed it was different but hadn't thought much more about it; I should really get a new unit I suppose.

[Moonlighter]

Replace it.

there have been a few reports of shorted out IAC valves taking out ecu’s - then, you are up the creek!

[mike.floutier]

Many thanks, I got a new Suzuki part direct from Japan from Megazip who were excellent and the price was great too.

Just fitted it it today and all is good again. Starts like a dream, idles perfectly (having readjusted the bypass screw) and isn't doing that hunting thing when trolling at around 1500rpm.

Thanks again for the advice!