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DF175 Revs and cuts off at startup.

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  • DF175 Revs and cuts off at startup.

    I have a 2012 DF175. It runs great and has never given one minute of trouble. Recently I noticed it doing something a little strange and I wanted to see if anyone has any ideas. Motor cranks with no problem(soon as you turn the key). It then revs up to around 2000-2500 rpms on it's own and then drops down to an idle and below until it shuts off. No alarms, no Lights. I can crank it up again immediately and it will do the same thing, cranking everytime and eventually stalling out. If I want to get it to idle, I can put the shifter in neutral, add a little throttle as the RPMs are decreasing and then pull the throttle to neutral and it will idle perfectly and run perfectly. Just for the hec of it I looked at the IAC Valve to see if there might be something noticeable going on with it but didn't see anything. Anybody got any ideas? Also, could anyone tell me how the codes are retrieved? I don't have the so-called smart gauge, just light on my boat. Does the audible alarm sound out the codes?


  • #2
    Low voltage, because of low battery, or corrosion on battery and wiring terminals. White wire (called sub-battery cable by Suzuki) not connected directly to battery + or to battery switch output. Whichever the reason, it's due usually to insufficient voltage to the ECU. Causes your EXACT symptoms. Revs on start to 2.0-2.5K RPM and dies. So fully charge your battery, and check your wiring connections.

    Don't make the mistake of assuming it's the IAC. It MiGHT be, but check everything else first. Insufficient voltage is a more likely cause.
    Last edited by Harper; 11-01-2018, 10:16 PM.
    Mike
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    • #3
      Thanks Harper. I would sure have been on a Goose chase. So, this White wire(sub battery cable), where does it originate from? Can you point me in the general area? I have no manual so I'm working blind here.
      By the way, got any pointers where I can get a service manual for it without having to mortgage the house???
      Thanks again!

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      • #4
        The sub battery cable runs from the start battery positive terminal OR from the battery switch, to the ECU power relay. That relay is activated by the key, and closes when you turn the key on. This assures that the ECU gets the full battery voltage when starting by providing a direct link from battery to ECU through the relay. There are other options for the wiring that a boat manufacturer or dealer might use. For instance, I had the exact problem that you're having when starting, and I could not find any white wire coming from the starting battery or from the battery switch. My boat is a center console, and the batteries are amidships under the console. As it turns out, the large battery cable (00 gauge) that comes off the battery switch goes to another positive bus bar in the transom and all of the power for the motor comes off that bus. That is also where I found my white wire connection. My problem turned out to be simply a battery not fully charged. I've since changed the type of battery switch, added the Suzuki dual battery isolator lead, and added an onboard charger/maintainer. Both batteries now get charged while running, and the boat now stays plugged in while parked at home. I've never had another starting issue.

        Concerning the manual, I know it may seem like a lot, but I personally prefer a manual in print form, and would not look for a downloadable version. So I don't know about their prices. The best price I find for the print version on a quick net search is $81 and change, found here https://www.perfprotech.com/suzuki-s...00-96J03-01E/1 Very reasonable, in my opinion.
        Mike
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        • #5
          You might want to do on line search for a Suzuki Service Manual, I found one on line that I down loaded for free for my DF 140. This was after I purchased a hard copy from Browns Point.

          JIm

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          • #6
            Thanks guys. I was able to locate the sub battery cable and moved it to a direct connection to my battery(+) terminal. My only question is, how is this supposed to help? When I located the wire it was on the switched side of my battery switch(I'm pretty sure I put it there a year ago when I was doing some "house-keeping" chores with my battery wiring). I assumed it would be OK to put it there since I have a simple on/off battery switch so I can disconnect everything when I finish with the boat for the day. First thing I do before taking it out is turn the switch on cause I have to so I can trim the motor up for trailering. Wouldn't this have voltage supplied to the ECM relay when I crank the motor or could it be a flaky battery switch??? The battery is strong(17v if my VOM is correct) when I measured it after moving the WW. I have never noticed any power issues but I'm pretty sure Harper nailed it. Reason so is one of the symptoms I forgot to mention but Harper did was having to power-up my chart/plotter each time after starting the engine. All the other symptoms are pretty much a combination of the ones I've read on this forum. I didn't get a chance to try it out since I moved the WW but hope to this week. I appreciate all the help and insight! Thanks Harper and jHydroman, I will look into the service manuals also.

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            • #7
              If I understand what you're saying, your chartplotter is on, then when you start the motor, it causes the chartplotter to turn off. If that's the case, then it sounds like the voltage drop on start is your problem. Checking battery condition in a static no-load state with a volt meter is not a good indicator of battery charge or condition. A valid check would be under load, i.e. during the cranking of the motor (or a battery tester that checks it under load). If your voltage drops too low while starting the motor, you will experience the problems that you have observed. Again, the voltage drop may not be the battery itself, but a fault in the wiring integrity.
              Last edited by Harper; 11-06-2018, 08:47 AM.
              Mike
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              • #8
                Thanks Harper. I plan on trying it out tomorrow and I will load test the battery today before hooking up the boat. If I do find a battery issue, is it OK to hook the WW back up the way I had it(on the switched side of the batter switch)?

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                • #9
                  Yes, I think you were fine the way it was hooked up.
                  Mike
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                  • #10
                    One of my DF 150"s done the same thing. I moved the white wire to the always hot side of the battery switch And the rev up and die problem was fixed. The other motor runs fine with the wire on the side that can be turned off.

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