Water through exhaust?

[Sea Frog]

Df115 2003?
Replaced the impeller and thermostat, but motives no silicon seal where the bottom leg bolts to the leg shaft - checked service manual and it was required - a 'friend' replaced the impeller last time...
So I put muffs on it, started up, ran perfect and soon noticed water replacing exhaust coming out of a 1/8 inch hole above the prop shaft (the prop was not installed).
So, I figured I may be getting too much pressure from my hose (I have good pressure where I live) and so I put the leg in a big tub, fired it up and same, so I let it run and then water (mist and spray) replaced the exhaust coming out of the port at the back of the leg just under the cowling.
The motor ran great and I had a good teltail each time?
I'm wondering if i messed up aligning the little gasket between the water pump and upper leg or a gasket issue or if there is even supposed to be a gasket between the lower and mid leg?
Any help greatly appreciated as we don't have a dealer here anymore!
Thanks!

[Solarman]

The object is that the motor not over heat in the first place. Also to have a good strong tell-tale, is a sign your water pump is working well.

There is no silicone seal between mid-section and gear case (lower unit where impeller is). This allows water to fill/ saturate the insides of the mid-section making sure there is water on impeller when the leg is down in the water, preventing a dry impeller from turning (a dry impeller should never be turned, water is its only lubrication).

There is supposed to be a little water blending with exhaust at back of motor (water mixes with exhaust to help keep exhaust temps down while running.

It sounds like you did everything just right.

Good luck.

[Murray]

Hate to go against Solarman's advice, he has likely forgotten more than I'll ever know about Suzuki's. My service manual calls for a light coating of silicon to the mating surface of the gear case and the drive shaft housing. Suzuki also wants some silicon applied to the 5 gear case bolts.

[Sea Frog]

Thanks so much for the replies, makes me confident to continue!
Yah, so I did apply silicon on the mating surfaces but I think I included the surfaces that separate the shaft side from the exhaust side thus cutting off water supply/spill? Into the water pump,side to cool the top of the water pump housing.
There is a p-tube? Hole in the front of the leg between the mating surfaces, but perhaps no enough flow going in that little hole to keep the top of the water pump cool without more water going between the two cavities where I silicones it..
Regardless, I was getting a serious spray out of the upper exhaust port - will try to get a pic next time I set it up.
Thanks for the advice - awesome to chat with people who know 🤓
I have some time to tinker before fishing season 🤗

[Solarman]

Murray, they do ask for that light silicone seal, and I did forget it. Those are machined surfaces to be a tight seal, but they do not want leaking of exhaust pressures to get to the water pump chamber, or saltwater/galvanic corrosion to eat at the bare/fresh aluminum surfaces and bolts (stainless/ aluminum dis-similar metals areas).

However, these areas are not water-tight. Holes have been placed to drain and fill all of those areas that trap/have water in them to allow them to fill, for water pump, and drain for freezing weather.

Good luck. Post back when able if other questions.

[Harper]

If they're really serious about putting sealant on those mating surfaces, you'd think they'd do so at the factory. My DF150 has absolutely NO sealant on those surfaces. Had there been any at all, there would have been evidence of that on my first water pump service. I've done the water pump service twice now, and there never was any trace of sealant. I haven't used any either.

Where the factory DID use sealant, strangely enough, was on the outside of the water pump cup, where it mates with the housing. The manual says to apply water-proof grease there. I had one hell of a time trying to get that cup out the first time I serviced the pump. Cleaned it all up and greased the new one as prescribed.

[Sea Frog]

mine did not have any silicone at all, but it does now as per the manual, except I did also seal the area between the exhaust and the shaft/impeller sides - to the left of the impeller housing in the middle pic attached.
Should I remove the sealant between the two cavities?
the water coming from the upper exhaust hole/port was very significant - looked like my boat was under the vegetable mister in the grocery store.. perhaps I will set it up again and look for a restriction from that exhaust.?
thanks again folks!

[Harper]

Do you think by chance that the water in the exhaust is being injected under pressure from the water pump itself, rather than just water that naturally gets into the lower unit? You get the spray out the exhaust when running on muffs, too?
Could it be a bad seal with the o-ring type seal around the cup?
Just throwing that speculation out there......

[Solarman]

I would suggest, water is being pushed past the water pressure valve as a by-pass for a well operating water pump. It should happen if in the water, or on muffs.
If your tell-tale was weak (impeller worn and weak), then you would have less water going through the by-pass to the exhaust. If tell-tale is weak, and lots of water is going out the exhaust, then you probably have a pressure valve stuck open.

If water is only misting/spitting out of your back port at idle, then you should be fine. When running at higher rpms, you will normally have much more water flowing out through the back port, If pouring out like a hose at idle, then you should check the pressure valve.

Good luck.

[Sea Frog]

Testing impeller with leg off?

Ok, we had some below freezing temps and I don't like to run water through my OBs when it's like that..
So, finally got a big plastic commercial fish tote, filled it, and started my 115;
Started perfect, sounded perfect, but no water from the tell tail after about 15 seconds, so I shut it off.
I took the leg off again (getting good at it now&#128580, looked carefully as I was taking it off, but all seemed in place..?
I put the leg in water up past the water intake vents and turned clockwise by hand; I did not see any water coming up/out of the impeller housing, or even starting to - should I have been able to manually pump water up by hand? Not very fast..
It sounds and feels like the impeller is spinning inside - not spinning on the shaft due to lack of the king pin.
Any ideas before I risk tearing the gasket taking the impeller housing off?
Appreciated!!

[Moonlighter]

You need to put it in deeper - you need the water to be 2-3" above the anti-vent plate on the leg. This gets the water pump below water level.

Did you replace the waterpump housing as well as the impeller? If not, do that. Been many examples where the housing is ever so slightly warped and the impeller then doesnt make a good seal. Always replace the lot!

[wilbur1]

Just a thought but did you put the key in the pump.?

[Sea Frog]

Well, looks like I will order another water pump kit and housing and try it all again. Will take 2 weeks to get here so I will try submersing the leg deeper and hand spin the shaft to see if it pumps..
Yah, I forgot the key once, very sure it is in there now..
Thanks,

[Johanm]

Well, looks like I will order another water pump kit and housing and try it all again. Will take 2 weeks to get here so I will try submersing the leg deeper and hand spin the shaft to see if it pumps..
Yah, I forgot the key once, very sure it is in there now..
Thanks,

Hi!
Did you solve this problem?
I have the same problem and would really like to know how to fix it.