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DT 140 Won't start

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  • #1

    DT 140 Won't start

    It's a 1998 and when I turn the key, the starter pops up but nothing more. I tried tapping on the starter to no avail. I've only owned this a few months and the starter looks fairly new and all the bolts are still shiny. Not sure if it was replaced recently. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

    Pete
    Tags: None
  • #2
    I let it sit for awhile and it cranked once, then 2x and after a few more tries it started. It has been staring on first try now. Lets see what happens tromorrow.

    Pete

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    • #3
      Make sure battery is still in good shape, and fully charged.

      I've had my bendix stick down a few times, but starter always turned. If I bump the bendix loose it works fine, seems humidity causes my problem after sitting more than a month.

      If your bendix is going up, your starter is working, bendix goes up by centrifugal force / initial spinning. Problem might be that your flywheel, crankshaft, or pistons could be sticking / not turning freely, if motor has been sitting up for however long?

      Good luck, the more you use it, the less chance it should stick? Unless you're getting water on any plugs after it runs? Post back when able to let us know.
      Last edited by Solarman; 10-17-2017, 07:13 AM.

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      • #4
        The bendix-is that what it is called? the rod that goes up when you turn the key? If so, that was always going up, but not turning over. Now that all seems to work fine. When I turn the key, she starts right up.
        Batteries both new and fully charged.
        This was a recent purchase and althouigh PO said he used it all the time, I'm beginning to think it sat idle and he only got it running to sell it and it was not run much.

        Now, the water coimg out the telltale is quite warm and when I race the engine it stops flowing, Water pump maybe or stuck thermostat? I have a new ware pump kit and was planning on changing the impellar. Start there and see what happens?

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        • #5
          Have you had the boat in the water yet?

          Did it overheat? Did tell-tale stop when in the water?

          Do not rev the engine high when on the muffs, and in neutral. They are meant to be pushing water (a load against the prop), at higher rpms.

          If the boat was in the water when the tell-tale stopped, at or above 2k rpms, then when inspecting water pump, inspect the sub-water pick up tube and grommets under water pump closely. If your model doesn't have this tube, then this shouldn't affect you.

          The sub-water tube crosses the exhaust pas-sage in the foot and enters the water pump cavity below the pump. If those grommets are loose, or burned up, exhaust gases will get passed the tube and blow water out of pickup cavity above 2k rpms, preventing water pump getting the water needed at those higher rpms.

          Good luck. Post back how its going when able to let us know what you found out.

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          • #6
            1. Yes.

            2. Yes, when I attemped to get up on plane increasing RPMs the water stopped coming out the telltale. I slowed down and water came out sporadically. Each time I increased RPMs the telltale stopped so I gave up and pulled the boat.

            Today I had the boat on the trailer. I removed the screen and put the muffs on and the stream was very strong. I did reve it and the stream got stronger. Whenever I put it in nuetral it still had a strong stream. I did this several times and each time it got stronger when reved up, and still had a strong flow when returned to nuetral.

            Tried to change the impellar, but couldn't get the bolt off the trim tab. It didn't have the trim tab snugged up as it spins loosely but the bolt seems to be forced in all the way but was too long. There is a lock washer there but the bolt is tightened and frozen. I squirted PB Blaster in there in hopes it will allow me to back the bolt out tomorrow.

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            • #7
              When you finally get the lower unit removed, pay attn to corrosion and any deterioration of aluminum mating surfaces. Can take pics and post a few if questions.

              Then proceed to water pump.

              Good luck. Post back how its going when able to let us know.

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              • #8
                Still can't get the trim tab bolt off. I have drilled off the trim tab- it was ready for a new one anyway- and exposed the bot that holds the lower unit on. The other 8 bolts will come off easily as they are not frozen on. I have been spraying PB Blaster up there but the engine even trimed up all the wat still slants down so the fluid is not seeping down on the threads even if that is possible. It's hard stainless and I don't want to break it off.
                Any ideas for getting this bolt off?

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                • #9
                  Do you have a propane hand torch, that you can heat the bolt up and then spray a good penetrating oil up at the threads. As the bolt cools, it will pull the oil up the threads. The corrosion will absorb the oil, so out might take a dozen times heating the bolt then letting it cool down with oil on threads. After a good while it should move slightly in, or out. Then work the bolt back and forth with lube on threads, many times. You can try heating and cooling with lube a number of more times. Soon working back and forth out should give more and more.

                  Big pain in the A. But will loosen.

                  Once bolt is out, you should clean the threads and flush all the salt corrosion out.

                  Good luck. Post back when able to let id's know how you're doing.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for that tip Solarman.

                    Will give it a try and report back.

                    Pete

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                    • #11
                      After you get the bolt out might I suggest you get a tap the exact size and thread count as the bolt. Running a tap through will clean those threads almost to new.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Solarman View Post
                        Do you have a propane hand torch, that you can heat the bolt up and then spray a good penetrating oil up at the threads. As the bolt cools, it will pull the oil up the threads. The corrosion will absorb the oil, so out might take a dozen times heating the bolt then letting it cool down with oil on threads. After a good while it should move slightly in, or out. Then work the bolt back and forth with lube on threads, many times. You can try heating and cooling with lube a number of more times. Soon working back and forth out should give more and more.

                        Big pain in the A. But will loosen.

                        Once bolt is out, you should clean the threads and flush all the salt corrosion out.

                        Good luck. Post back when able to let id's know how you're doing.

                        OK You are correct "Big pain in the A. I followed your instructions and the bolt is finalluy out! Thank you for that advice. Now it's on to the water pump. The PO said he changed it 6 months ago, but from the condition of the trim tab bolt and the looks of the dried out grease from the lower unit it's obvious it hasn't benn changed in avery long time.
                        I've taken pics but can't get them to appear in my email. If I get that far I will post.,

                        I do have taps, but not with me will do as you suggest as soon I get them here Murry
                        Last edited by Intrepid; 10-23-2017, 01:52 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Oh What A surprise!! The last time someone-I'm guessng the PO- took off the water pump housing they broke off one the nuts leaving the stud in the lower unit and applied lots of silicone around the water pump housing to make a seal! What a mess!. So tomorrow I will get out the torch and heat up this bolt like the last one before, get a new bolt and install the water pump housing. At least I have this soaking overnight and hope it comes out easier. Stay tuned and wish me luck tomorrow. Thanks for your help and chime in if I'm not thinking this correctly.

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                          • #14
                            No you're thinking correctly. But if you didn't buy the kit with the replacement housing, don't open the kit you bought, until you are sure youe housing is good you reuse.

                            Also, look for other areas worn, corroded, broken, from age or poor maintenance.

                            You should be able to post pics as attachments where you add messages in this forum, scroll down before submitting reply. Follow directions.

                            Good luck, post back when able to let us know how it's going.

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              I would replace the entire water pump assembly, housing and all. You have had so much fun getting to the water pump I'd go brand new. Your comments have you doubting the previous owners maintainance why risk using a fairly inexpensive used part for such a crucial part? If the new water pump doesn't rectify your issues then at least you can rule out the water pump as a problem.

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