Greetings members! Just broke in my 2003 after complete overhaul. Perfect perfomance no problems, until ! Changed filter and oil and went to synthetic! First trip out (1 hr. at 4500) oil all over the back cowling, about a quart and when I drained it to switch back, I notice it a little milky. I have changed again and found more water than before. I thought the lower dual seals on the drive shaft were affected by the synthetic and would eventually clear up, any thoughts or history on this problem?:
it would be prety unlikely the change of oil caused the problem, I do believe there is a problem with the 140 where the oil filter mounts, there is an O ring that gets corosion under it and lets cooling water enter the oil, might be worth doing a bit of research and 'googling" to see what turns up.
I just checked that a few minutes ago, but I will take it off again and dig a little further. It looked very clean, but I did notice on the IPB that it has several orings inside. I will attempt to disassemble it this time. I did previously read some comments on sythetic oil. My engine did not leak a drop and I treat it better than my wife! I put the synthetic in an leakage all over the back cowling. Well, first the water problem. Thank you!
Took oil cooler apart! Full of corrosion, some under Orings. I cleaned it up real nice and put new orings. Will test this afternoon when I finish the flush process. Thank you!
Made 3 short fishing trips. First two, I ran the engine under 4500 rpm. No water in oil. The last trip, I ran around 4800 and put it up to 5500 for about 3 minutes. Got home and cleaned up, checked oil, water again. Never over heats, runs beautiful, could it be corrosion in the engine holder?
I am not there yet. I want to do some more trouble shooting before I go there. I personally overhauled this engine and took extra care and detail in doing the job. Every surface was cleaned and handled by the book. Torque wrench was accurate and all bolts were double and triple checked. I will be doing a compression check this coming friday and I will go from there. Tonight I will drain the oil out and connect the water hose to the flushing port on the port side of the engine. I will then check for leakage on the exhaust side of water jacket gaskets and see if any clean water gets into the oil pan. Process of elimination, but I still appreciate all suggestions and ideas! Thanx!
Took power head off and found plenty of corrosion where the power head mates with the holder. The bolt chamber is eaten away where it mates with the power head bolt chamber. Ther power head bolt chamber that is adjacent to the exhaust chamber is partially eaten away where hot exhaust leaks into the bolt chamber. The engine holder has corrosion perforation into the bolt chamber about half way down. I cannot find leakage signs in the gasket between the water jacket into the oil pan, but I suspect there may be an excessive amount of heat building up inside the bolt chamber that could cause some kind of hot spot on that section. I am going to glass bead the damaged area and have a machine shop fill in the corroded areas and resurface the holder. I don't want to put out $900 dollars, unless I could find a good used engine holder?
Back to square one. Had engine holder rebuilt , put new gaskets on holder and oil pan and put back together. Took it out last night and ran like a clock. Check the oil after running one hour, water in oil again. I am going to pull the oil cooler again to check it, again. The oil pressure on this engine is 60 lbs plus, how could water pressure overcome oil pressure? Could that be possible? Should I also do a hot engine compression test, the engine has never run hot. Need some help!!!!
DF140 Water in Oil
Linear Mode
