DF175 No water from Pee Hole

seahawk IV · #1 (**permalink**) 08-15-2011, 02:55 AM

I have a 2007 DF175 with less than 25 hours. I replaced the impeller/water pump with OEM parts. Also performed a 100 hour service and replaced a few other parts just for the heck of it.

I tried to run the motor with ear muffs but water will NOT flush through the pee hole. I've tried to clean out all the hose lines with a weed wacker line and still no water. I've replaced the thermostat with a OEM part and added fresh fuel and still no water. I've also inspected the pick-up screen and no visible debris inside or out.

If I submerge the lower unit in a large container covering the lower unit up to about 6" below the exhaust, it pees within 2 seconds on the first crank. Second crank, it will pee water instantly. Motor would run over 15 minutes perfectly without any issues.

If I have the ear muffs installed, I would let the motor run for about 45 seconds to a minute, not a drop of water from the pee hole. Then put it back in the container and pees immediately.

I'm not new to boating and have some experience with working on 4 stroke motors but this issue is new to me. I'm wondering if the water pump housing has a crack that I'm not seeing. Not sure what eles it could be.

Please help...

mitch · #2 (**permalink**) 08-15-2011, 05:50 AM

you have answered your own question

simple answer is there is not enough water with just the hose and ear muffs. you need the engine in water

Harper · #3 (**permalink**) 08-15-2011, 06:31 PM

I've got an '07 DF150, water comes out the peehole just fine on the muffs, and comes out immediately. You do turn the water on enough to be forcing some extra water around the seal of the muffs, right? There has to be enough water flowing in.....I also have to turn it up even further after starting the engine to compensate for the pump suction. After the engine is up to operating temp, I run it up to about 1100-1200 RPM for the duration of the flush. It just sounds to me like you might not be putting enough water volume through the hose.

seahawk IV · #4 (**permalink**) 09-24-2011, 02:50 PM

Water pressure is not an issue. My water pressure is up to 110PSI at the spigot.

I still have not cured this problem yet. I've been flushing the motor with a large container without a problem. Now I'm planning to take longer road trips with the boat and I don't want to pack a large container when a muff is all I need. I know I can flush the motor with the two side flush ports but I don't believe that flushes the thermostat.

Is it possible that the Y-style muffs that feed water on both ends is causing the problem? Are some muffs brands more effective then others?

What bothers me is that this was not an issue prior to replacing the water pump with an OEM kit purchased on Boats.net. The only thing I did not replace was the water pump casing and the upper grommet where the feed tube is inserted into. Other then that, my motor has less then 40 hours of run time.

Harper · #5 (**permalink**) 09-24-2011, 06:35 PM

Well, I'm not sure what's going on either, since, like I said, my 150 pees immediately with the muffs. When you say you "can flush the motor with the two side flush ports but I don't believe that flushes the thermostat." I assume you're speaking of the front and left side hose fittings? If so, you're correct, since you should not run the engine using those flush ports. The temperature gauge on my engine shows that the thermostat is fully open within 3-4 minutes of running with the muffs. The temperature levels off around 150 degrees and remains there throughout the flush. I'm assuming you don't have a way of monitoring the temperature except the overheat light, so I understand your reluctance to let it run on the muffs with no water coming out the peehole. But I sure don't understand why it's doing what it's doing. I mentioned adequate volume of water from the tap in my previous post, and don't really think water pressure per se matters all that much as long as the volume is adequate, since I'm on a well and my max pressure never exceeds 60 psi. Sure wish I could be of more help, but you've got me stymied, too. I suppose you might want to try different muffs. The ones I use are not the "Y" type. They're the type that feeds to one side and blocks the inlet on the opposite side.

mitch · #6 (**permalink**) 09-25-2011, 07:50 PM

you still need more water than a 1/2 hose can supply

Harper · #7 (**permalink**) 09-25-2011, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitch

you still need more water than a 1/2 hose can supply

Well, Mitch, if you're right, then it's only because his water pump is not working adequately. As I said before, my hose is perfectly adequate to flush my motor, and I can monitor the engine temperature during the flush. Even a 200' hose would provide enough water to the water pump to force water out the peehole, if the pump were performing adequately. Water out the peehole is not evidence of adequate engine cooling. It's only proof of an operating water pump. So if seahawk can't get enough water through a hose to have it come out the peehole, but does in a tank, I say he needs to redo his pump rebuild. I have a suspicion that the pump is operating marginally, even with the engine in the water. Which means it might eventually start to overheat on the water under load.

redlowrey · #8 (**permalink**) 09-26-2011, 07:23 AM

Mate pull the leg off and have a look, you have cocked somthing up when you put it back together. My DF140 pee's good on the garden hose and muffs.

catacom225 · #9 (**permalink**) 09-27-2011, 03:34 AM

hold the muffs tight together and it will pee

kmoose · #10 (**permalink**) 09-27-2011, 08:08 AM

I have had the same issues with my 250 and found I had misaligned the pick up tube slightly. If there is any little leak or mating problem the pump will work with reduced efficiency and not be able to pull water from the muffs. Just think about how a straw in a fountain drink acts when it has a crack in it..... this is exactly what is happening with your engine.

In most cases the remedy is to drop the unit, lube the tube and mating surfaces with a light coat of silicon grease and the problem resolves itself. Make sure you have good control of the lower unit when putting back together. It is very helpfull to have the assistance of another person while you are doing this. If your on your own, try running a motorcycle tie down strap hooked on the bracket near the trim cylinder. Start the shaft up into the center section and run the strap under the cavitation plate and up again to the bracket. The strap will support the weight of the lower unit while you line up all the critical areas. Simply pull on the strap and raise the lower unit into place and start the bolts.

Hope this helps....