Classic engine holder corrosion, engine toast, what now?

[WEDOCQ]

I had the classic engine holder corrosion issue(2001 DF 115). I replaced the engine holder and the gaskets only to discover the engine is toast when I was done with everything. So now what? Are these powerheads worth rebuilding? I am not a mechanic, but decent with a wrench. Is this something I could tackle myself?

If not, does Suzuki sell powerheads?

Thanks,
Shawn

BTW, This forum does have the best prices and the parts arrived very timely.

[catacom225]

Have the head checked for cracks, Thats the expensive part, other than that it's just a small motor

[WEDOCQ]

This motor was a huge mess. The engine holder was horribly corroded, and I assumed WRONG this was the source of the water in the oil. But, after spending $800 on a new engine holder (plus gaskets for the oil pan, engine holder and fresh oil, filters, etc), water was still getting into the oil at an alarming rate. Now I am guessing cracks in the powerhead or the head gasket.
-Shawn

[Chumbiwumba]

I am having a similar problem with a 2001 DF 40. It is not the head gasket as far as I can tell because it has great compression and no water on the plugs.

I have been studying the coolant flow diagrams in the manual and as far as I can tell the water comes up from the pump to the bottom of the oil pan, across the pan to a passage around the exhaust to the engine holder (this joint is a point that may be breached). It continues around the exhaust in the holder to the timing case cover which has the same openings for the exhaust and coolant (2nd point of possible breach. Then the timing case to block (another joint). So this is like a layer cake of joints with water passing through the various layers and oil in the middle.

What I am thinking about doing is a leak down test on the cooling system by pulling the power head and blocking off the water intake at the timing case cover. I will use an aluminum plate, siliconed and clamped over the passage. I will then connect a manifold with a gauge to the outlet from the thermostat housing (with the thermostat removed)and apply compressed air. The theory here is that if the coolant passages in the head and cylinder are in tact there should be no drop in air pressure through them. If there is I might be able to localize the leak by listening to the hiss, but basically the head or block maybe toast.

Right now I am more suspicious of the gaskets and joints because you have hot exhaust gases that can burn through a gasket due to a localized hot spot or you can have cases warp and cause the same thing.

Someone should slap a radiator on this crap and be done with raw water cooling.

Originally Posted by WEDOCQ

This motor was a huge mess. The engine holder was horribly corroded, and I assumed WRONG this was the source of the water in the oil. But, after spending $800 on a new engine holder (plus gaskets for the oil pan, engine holder and fresh oil, filters, etc), water was still getting into the oil at an alarming rate. Now I am guessing cracks in the powerhead or the head gasket.
-Shawn

[catacom225]

One place to check would be the oil filter housing,The oil cooler has a seal that can fail and allow water into the oil system. Be shore to run some clean cheap oil into the engine