87 Suzuki 150hp…frozen up?

[wjobbb]

After sitting for six months or so, engine froze up but I was able to free it over 2/3 weeks. Before trying to start it, took a set of compression readings. Looking forward from behind the engine, the readings were 90 to 105 lbs except on the bottom holes on each bank, the one on the right was 65 and the left one was 75. After putting a lttle oil in the 65 lb hole it jumped up and held 90.

Cleaned the carbs and have good fuel flow to the carbs, squirting gas and/or starter fluid into the carbs gets it started for a few seconds, then it quits. When I cleaned the carbs forgot to remove the Pilot Screw and Pilot Jet, thus not cleaning them, on the second side of each carb. When I realized this omission allready had the carbs back on the engine and hoped this would not prevent it from starting? Did notice after trying to start it, after pulling those two bottom plugs, that the one from the 65 lb hole showed some moisture on the working end of the plug, the other one showed just a trace of moisture, the top two on either side were dry.

When I put my thumb over each open hole and turn the engine by hand can feel good pressure on the top two on each side and slightly less on the bottom two.

Suggestions please. Should the engine start based on this info?

thanks

[boats.net]

An engine needs three essential ingredients, spark, compression and fuel. The compression is low, but should still run (not very well). You have mentioned everything but spark. Be sure you have good spark in all cylinders.

[catacom225]

The most likely cause for your engine seizing up whould be moisture, water sitting in those pots over time will do the job

[wjobbb]

Originally Posted by boats.net

An engine needs three essential ingredients, spark, compression and fuel. The compression is low, but should still run (not very well). You have mentioned everything but spark. Be sure you have good spark in all cylinders.

I checked spark in one cylinder, it was a ****en flash not a blue one, but I assumed I am getting enough spark otherwise it wouldn't run for a few seconds, as it is doing?

[wjobbb]

Originally Posted by wjobbb

I checked spark in one cylinder, it was a ****en flash not a blue one, but I assumed I am getting enough spark otherwise it wouldn't run for a few seconds, as it is doing?

not ****, should have said it was yellowish, not blue.

[wjobbb]

Originally Posted by catacom225

The most likely cause for your engine seizing up whould be moisture, water sitting in those pots over time will do the job

Any way to get a look/partial look inside those cylinders by removing some part (like exhaust plate) before pulling the heads? Also, fact that I forgot to clean the Pilot Screw and Pilot Jet on each of the three carb sets (only cleaned one side of each) could be causing the no start? Understand that once the engine runs for a few seconds, then quits, indicates a fuel problem? I've pulled the hoses that go into the carbs and turned the engine over and am getting good delivery.

[wjobbb]

Can someone please answer the following?

Any way to get a look/partial look inside those cylinders by removing some part (like exhaust plate) before pulling the heads?

The fact that I forgot to clean the Pilot Screw and Pilot Jet on each of the three carb sets (only cleaned one side of each), when I cleaned the carbs, could be causing the no start?

Understand that once the engine runs for a few seconds on starter fluid/gas spray, then quits, indicates a fuel problem? I've pulled the hoses that go into the carbs and turned the engine over and am getting good fuel delivery?

I checked spark in one cylinder, it is a yellowish color, not blue, but I assume I am getting enough spark otherwise it wouldn't run for a few seconds, as it is doing?

Trying to determine whether I'm wasting my time trying to get this devil to start or whether I should proceed to pull the heads?

thankyou

[boats.net]

Run a compression test to see if cylinders are even.

[wjobbb]

Originally Posted by boats.net

Run a compression test to see if cylinders are even.

I reported in my first post:
"After sitting for six months or so, engine froze up but I was able to free it over 2/3 weeks. Before trying to start it, took a set of compression readings. Looking forward from behind the engine, the readings were 90 to 105 lbs except on the bottom holes on each bank, the one on the right was 65 and the left one was 75. After putting a lttle oil in the 65 lb hole it jumped up and held 90"

After trying numerous times to start it, ran another check on the hole that originally was 65lbs, after it had sat for 6 months and it was still holding 90lbs. Assuming hole that originally was 75lbs is also up around 90.

[wjobbb]

Originally Posted by wjobbb

Can someone please answer the following?

Any way to get a look/partial look inside those cylinders by removing some part (like exhaust plate) before pulling the heads?

The fact that I forgot to clean the Pilot Screw and Pilot Jet on each of the three carb sets (only cleaned one side of each), when I cleaned the carbs, could be causing the no start?

Understand that once the engine runs for a few seconds on starter fluid/gas spray, then quits, indicates a fuel problem? I've pulled the hoses that go into the carbs and turned the engine over and am getting good fuel delivery?

I checked spark in one cylinder, it is a yellowish color, not blue, but I assume I am getting enough spark otherwise it wouldn't run for a few seconds, as it is doing?

Trying to determine whether I'm wasting my time trying to get this devil to start or whether I should proceed to pull the heads?

thankyou

Can someone please answer the above questions?