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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2012, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by keakar View Post
it would be nice to see how the new sensors read on the chart before you install them, sorta like a base line to compare to

even thou the "good" sensor followed a better line it had some herky jerky to it so im curious if the new ones are like that or will work more smoothly
Sorry, I may have miss-typed something, but the "good" sensor actually was nice and linear as it is suppose to be.

I will test the new sensors for future reference, and this time I will check the response time against the old "good" sensor.

I also read somewhere that the later model engines don't have the exhaust sensor, but the part is listed for 2002-2010, so maybe it was only the latest or the John-zuki models, or the information was incorrect

While I was at it I figured it was time anyway so I went ahead and changed out the Water Pressure Valve since it was only $14, but the old one I took out still looked like new.

Not ruling out the possibility of corrosion or scale build up, I checked what I could on water passages, and given the engines 2,200 hours each they are relatively clean and only show signs of what I would consider normal build up for their age and hours.

I have been fishing salt water my entire life, have seen engines that looked like an oyster bed with a prop coming out of it and still running, and others that were new, kept up and still had issues.

I have owned Evinrude and Mercury, and didn't have a lot experience with Suzuki, but before purchasing the engines 2 1/2 years ago, I did quiet a bit of research on Suzuki 4-strokes, and while 2,200 hours may be consider getting up there in engine time, Suzuki has a history of long life. I spoke with a guy from SeaTow who said they use the DF140's on their tow boats, and have a pair with over 10,000 hours without any major mechanical issues. The company my brother works for uses Suzuki 4 strokes on their work boats with over 4,000 hours, he said they had to replace the starters because they run quiet, and with any background noise they would forget they were running and try to 're-start'.

I am the 3rd owner of these engines, and most of the time on them are running offshore, the 2nd owner purchased them from a guide in Florida with around 1,000 hours, the 2nd owner fishes Boomvang regularly and said because they were so quiet, and didn't burn much fuel, he never shut the engines off, so each trip would put around 20+hours.

I can't vouch for how the previous two owners maintained the engines, but from what I have seen myself these engines respond very well to regular maintenance and care. I bet if purchased new and properly maintained and cared for, aside from an unusual catastrophic failure I serious doubt you would ever be able to wear them out.

There is one thing I found out after I purchased them, not Suzuki related, but the previous owner kept the boat in a sling, at high tide the lower units would get dunked underwater, and then at low tide they would dry out. This repetitive dunking and drying out was actually worse than keeping them submerged. What this did was cause carbonate build up between the lower unit housing and the bearing carrier.

This build up is extremely powerful, sort of like the way ice can crack engine blocks when frozen, and the build up caused the lower units to crack, the famous "J" crack, at the rear of the lower unit at the bearing carrier, so I had them rebuilt by Boat Motor Recyclers - New, Used and Rebuilt Parts for Outboards, looks as good as new with a warranty at about 1/3 the cost of a new lower unit.

There is a lot of information on salt / scale build up, and found some interesting information (just one of many articles I read: Corrosion in Salt Water Marine Engines - Part 1)

What I read on corrosion and scale issues, that salt alone was is not necessarily a key factor, and a large percentage of engines that had scale build up all had low hours. There was one post where a guy had scale build up issues on a fresh water only engine that turned to be the result of the marina he kept is boat at had a lot of minerals in fresh water supply and flushing the engines with this is what caused his issue.

Hopefully others will benefit from all this and help them out
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2012, 04:55 AM
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Default hey txfishin

Did you remove the plastic screens on lower unit water intake? They have a directional curve to the shape ofn the plastic and divert the water upward into the lower unit to assist suction. Just something to look at. If removed and installed upside down it hinders suction pressure to impeller.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2012, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briscoe View Post
Did you remove the plastic screens on lower unit water intake? They have a directional curve to the shape ofn the plastic and divert the water upward into the lower unit to assist suction. Just something to look at. If removed and installed upside down it hinders suction pressure to impeller.
Please see page two of this thread for the resolution.

Thank you for the information, I always welcome and appreciate help on issues like this. And thinking along those lines I did actually double check that just to rule it out, but was not the issue. Also, i figured it was not likely to cause a random overheat, since I turned the key off and back on and it worked fine after that, it was less likely that it was actually overheating because the engine would not cool down in the time it takes to just restart.
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