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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2012, 02:59 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
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Default DF 140 Questions..........?

I finally got around to doing the yearly inspection and maintenace on my 2003 140 four stroke, I was looking down the list of items in the workshop manual and two things came up that I have not done in the past.

The motor has ~300 hours on it and I have never set or checked the IAC valve, is this a big deal? The motor starts, idles and runs fine?

The second thing is, it says to check the "timing belt", now I know this motor has a timing chain with a automatic tensioner. I can understand the book may have meant to say chain, but is there a way to inspect this externally?

Also why does Suzuki offer two T-stats for this motor?
I have been told to use the 60C one by the local dealer, I am in AK and the water is plenty cold so am thinking I could use the 71C......?
I do run a jet pump on it most of time.

Thanks, John
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:04 PM
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John,
I am not a mechanic, but have just completed a major overhaul on my DF140, so I feel like I know it well. The IAC valve controls the air flow when the motor is in nuetral. It's what sets the idle speed. Unless you having idling problems, I see no reason to check it other than maybe making sure the tube isn't clogging up.

As far as the timing chain goes, from the research I did, Suzuki made this chain to last the life of the motor. When I put my timing chain on when I put the motor back together, there was no way to adjust it once it's on. Also, to inspect the timing chain, you would need to remove the powerhead from the engine holder, to get a full view.

Now to move on to way more important issues. Have you replaced your engine holder plug? Just do a quick google search on "Suzuki engine holder corrosion". Hours of fun reading. Long story short. Suzuki placed a plug on the port side of the engine holder in anticipation of using it for an O2 sensor in the future. No O2 sensor ever came, but the soft metal plug they used has cause a lot of problems. The dissimilar metals starts the corrosion process. It eventually will eat thru this plug area as in this case:
Suzuki DF140 "engine holder" corrosion fix! - The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum

Sometimes, the cancer corrosion will eat thru the exhaust walls of the engine holder first, before any problems occur with the plug. This can cause a multitude of symptoms including: water in the exhaust, exhaust in the crankcase, water in the crankcase, etc. This is what my engine holder corrosion looked like on the inside:


So what I would do is remove that plug ASAP and replace it with an aluminum one. To do this you might need to get creative. The plug is an 18mm by 1.5 thread. Hard to find. I had a machine shop make me one.

If you are not up for this task, I would at the very least watch very closely for water getting into the oil. This will be a sign things have gone south with the engine holder. Another common reason for water in the oil is a corroded seal on the water cooler of the engine filter holder.
Good Luck,
Shawn
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:10 AM
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Shawn,
Excellent information, thanks for the reply.
I removed the cowling today and everything appears just fine, but I did read all the posts in "The Hull Truth". Rather amazing, I have read several post cocncerning 140's "maikng oil", this sounds like the cause.

Is this plug strickly into a exhaust cavity or water jacket also?
I usally run the boat in fresh water but it sounds as if this issue is not isolated to salt water. I do remove and clean the internal anodes.

It sounds like some folks could not remove the plug, but apperently you were able, any thoughts regarding removal?

John
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Old 03-07-2012, 02:18 AM
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Another guy said he used liquid wrench and then it came out no problem. I had to drill mine out, which pretty much sucked. This plug is on the engine holder on the port side. It accesses the exhaust excusively. BUT, the cancer it causes can spread to areas that affect water jackets, and/or allowing exhaust in directly to the crank case. This problem seems to affect everyone eventually. I just think it's the conditions the motor is run in. I have see motors with 3000 hours with this problen, and motors with just 300 hours with this problem. I guess it just depends. This is a real good motor. It just has one small flaw that Suzuki doesn't want to recognize. Thank God we did!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by AKjohn View Post
Shawn,
Excellent information, thanks for the reply.
I removed the cowling today and everything appears just fine, but I did read all the posts in "The Hull Truth". Rather amazing, I have read several post cocncerning 140's "maikng oil", this sounds like the cause.

Is this plug strickly into a exhaust cavity or water jacket also?
I usally run the boat in fresh water but it sounds as if this issue is not isolated to salt water. I do remove and clean the internal anodes.

It sounds like some folks could not remove the plug, but apperently you were able, any thoughts regarding removal?

John
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:15 AM
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Debating whether or not to remove this plug, I think once I attempt to remove there will be no turning back....

I spoke to my local dealer here in Fairbanks and he feels corrosion has not been a issue here, maybe due to the typically colder water and may be more fuel related as we do not have to contend with ethanol based fuels.....

Suzukis arent the only ones having problems.....I have gotten on a local forum and no one seemed aware or interested in this........still pondering.....
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:55 PM
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John- Shawn convinced me to check my internal anodes and remove the steel plug. Glad I did. Anodes were completely gone. 400 hrs on a 2002 df115. Should have checked yearly. Got the steel bolt out with some liquid wrench. I could see and feel where the internal threads were corroding down. I had a 18mm 1.5p plug made at a machine shop. Not cheap. About one hours labor. Since then I found a cheap source for the plugs. A manufacturer of aluminum oil pan plugs has one for five bucks and shipping. You have to order from the guy direct so he can get you one before they magnetized it. 1-888-578-3851. Ask for Tim. I suspect like Shawn most of these motors will have problems to some degree. I feel a lot better with that steel bolt out. I just hope its not too late. good luck - John
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