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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2017, 11:48 AM
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Okay, I removed all three carbs, disassembled, blew out all passages reassembled and installed back on the motor. I found no debris of any kind in any of the carburetors. The only thing I found was the top carburetor did not appear to have a good seal to the manifold. I then ran the engine and it does seem to run a little better but still seems rough. I intend to go after the fuel pump, strainer and lines from the tank to all the carbs today.

Let me ask a question. I really have no idea how this motor should sound running out of the water. Am I being anal about this? I know its not going to be as smooth as a singer sewing machine, but!

Okay, I disassembled the fuel pump and it is fine. Diaphragms are in good shape and no debris. Strainer was removed and disassembled and no debris found. All lines were blown out and no debris or obstructions were found. The only thing I found today was the #3 spark plug boot had a split in it. Bought three new spark plug boots and connectors and installed.

The only thing that I have done to make any change on how this motor runs is by opening up the idle screw more. The more I open them the better the engine runs. At 1 5/8's open the engine runs rough and smokes a lot. The more I open them the better the engine runs and the less it smokes and the higher the rpm's. However, the throttle plates are still closed so there is no way to turn the rpm's down. I currently have them open about 2 1/4 turns. At that setting the engine runs at about 1100 rpm's. Hope this information is helpful.

Last edited by johnstout; 08-13-2017 at 09:16 PM.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2017, 08:18 AM
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If you are opening the air mixture screws that far, you may still have some blockage in the air pas-sages. The more you open the air mixture screws the more air you are mixing with the fuel at idle. The Suzuki manual tells you what the air mixture screw should be set at. If you have to vary/ change that setting more than 1/8 to 1/4 turn, then this indicates there is a blockage in the air, or fuel pas-sages for that carb. Also, if your base carb gasket is leaking air it will cause problems with mixture screw adjustment.

On the top of each carb is a screw (#4 in the parts page listing), just in line at the end of the mixture screw. Did you remove these 3 screws and blow out those pas-sages? This is your main air pas-sage for each carb.

Your throttle plates (butterflies) should be closed at idle, this is why those air pas-sages are important.

Post back when able to let us know how it's going. Good luck.
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Old 08-14-2017, 11:06 AM
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Yes I did remove those screws and made sure they were open. That screw has three holes in it. 2 holes on the side of the shaft and one on the bottom of the shaft. I was able to blow carburetor cleaner and air thru the holes as well as the opening for the idle adjustment screw.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2017, 04:36 PM
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What you're calling idle adjustment screw (#6 in parts listing), if it is the one front and top of carb throat, is the idle air-mixture screw. The farther you open it, the more air mixes with the factory preset/ predetermined amount of fuel at idle. This causes that cylinder to run "leaner". If you close that screw, this reduces the air mixture at idle causing that cylinder to run "richer" (less air mixture).

If you set the mixture too "lean" and run the motor for enough time, this can burn/overheat the piston causing a hole in that piston. It is better to run a slightly "richer" mixture than a "lean" mixture because of the damages it can cause.

The manual should give the best setting for all carbs, and as i mentioned in previous post, too far outside of the book recommendations indicates something is not right.

When you removed the carbs did you look at reed valves inside, behind carbs?

Post back when able to let us know how it's going. Good luck.
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Old 08-15-2017, 12:19 AM
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I did look at the reed valves and as far as I can tell they look okay. I took all three carbs off again and have clear passages for both air and fuel. I reinstalled all three carbs and used Permatex high contact gasket sealer to insure I have no air leaks at the carburetor to intake manifold leaks. The product data says it has a 24 hr cure time so I can't start it up until tomorrow.
After all the testing that I have done and all the parts that I have replaced when I remove the spark plugs the #1 plug clearly is not firing like the other two.

I would like to know how to test the pulser coils. The manual says to remove the battery negative cable and to perform a resistance check. When I do this, I get no readings on any of the coils. Something is wrong with what they are telling me to do. I really don't trust the manual that much. Case in point in the tune up section it tells me that the idle adjustment is 1 7/5 to 2.25 turns. In a supplemental it tells me its 1 5/8 turns.

Even though the timing light tells me I'm getting fire to all three cylinders it doesn't tell me I'm getting enough.

Everything that I have done the top cylinder is not firing like the other two.
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Old 08-15-2017, 07:03 AM
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What do you mean by "enough" fire?
The timing light can show you it is flashing just like the other cylinders, which means it fires the plugs as the other cylinders do. If it flashes, like the other cylinders, it is getting the same impulses to flash. Also, the same pulse coil operates all three cylinders.
The intensity of the spark is determined by the coil, plug wire, and plug. If questionable, swap all 3 with a different cylinder to see if that makes a difference.
The CDI (condenser discharge ignition) pack is the only other item between the impulses and firing of plugs.

So what tells you "enough" fire, or not "enough" fire?

Post back when able to let us know.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2017, 10:58 AM
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Okay, I will continue on the fuel and air side of things. I have changed all the ignition coils around and no matter what I do the #1 cylinder is the one misfiring regardless of what coil I have on it.

I have a few more hours left for the cure on my gasket sealant to be done. I'm crossing my fingers. Will let you know how it turns out.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2017, 01:08 PM
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If sure you have misfire, certain it is not firing like the other two cylinders, check neutral switch to be sure it is working properly, if it is not it could be dropping #1 cylinder for safe mode. Otherwise, it could be your CDI unit?

I was under the assumption all cylinders were firing equally.
It is not easy from this side of computer to visualize and diagnose.

I would be suggesting setting the air mixture screws at 1-3/4 to 2 turns open from lightly seated. Your manual's setting of 1-5/8 turns is not far from 1-3/4 or 2 turns.

Good luck, post back when able to let us know how it's going.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2017, 01:44 PM
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Well, it appears that I had a gasket leak between the #1 carb and the intake manifold. After removing all the carbs and using the sealant there is a remarkable difference on how the motor runs. It still isn't real smooth but does not appear to be misfiring any more. I haven't been able to find any you tube videos on how this motor sounds running on ear muffs so I really don't have a good reference point to go buy. Like I indicated, I just bought this thing a couple of weeks ago.

Thanks for your patience with me. Been a long time since I messed with an outboard motor. Have had inboards for the last 38 years.

I now feel comfortable in taking it for a lake run to run some of the bugs out of it. I'll keep you posted.
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