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HELP: 1999 Suzuki DT 150hp water in ALL cylinders

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  • HELP: 1999 Suzuki DT 150hp water in ALL cylinders

    Model: 15003-031185 380 hours (100 hours in saltwater in the last 4 years)

    Problems:

    1. Initial problem was motor was peeing very little water (drops) out of the side while at any rpm, in gear or out of gear, in the water and on the muffs. Thermostats are working properly, (already checked on the stove and they open fine). The poppet (pressure) valve on the starbord side below the bottom cylinder is working as it should. On both cylinder heads there is a water tube going from the bottom to the top. After taking off the tubes and connecting the hose to the flush port on the side of the engine with engine off, water flows from top and bottom on the starbord side but only flows out of the top hole on the port side. The bottom hole is completely dry, not a drop of water. Also, the bottom port side cylinder is red hot to the touch, more than any of the others. So the only thing to do is pull the head off. On to problem 2.
    2. After pulling the port cyl head off there is a milky water/oil/fuel mix in all three cylinders. Some normal saltwater blockage is in the water passages but nothing major. Top and middle cylinders have minor rust (fuzzy to the touch) along the cyl walls. Will be able to get off with light sanding with sandpaper or scotchbrite pad. The bottom cyl (the one that was hot) looks good; no rust and oiled as it should be. The top cyl head is wet and full of carbon and the bottom is white with almost no carbon buildup. I thought it was because of it getting so hot but one mechanic seems to think its from water in the bottom cyl blasting the carbon away (like steam cleaning the head). Being curious I looked at the 3 starbord sparks plugs only to find that they were all covered in the milky muck of water/oil/gas. There is no water in the gas. Last 6 months the motor has only been run every weekend on fresh 90 oct non ethonal fuel from a 5 gal tank through a new water separator and new fuel lines. The mechanic thinks water is getting to the cylinders from the exhaust ports or through the manafold under the powerhead somehow.
    3. While idling I pulled each of the plug wires one by one. Only 3 of the plugs I pulled made the motor lower rpms and change sound.

    Questions:

    1. Why the engine isn’t peeing water? (besides a blockage in the starbord water passage that I cant see)
    2. Why is there water in ALL 6 cylinders and where is it coming from?
    3. Why do only 3 cyls change the rpms? Is it possible there is too much water in 3 of the cyls and they are not sparking?
    4. Should I dig deeper into the engine (remove starbord cyl head, powerhead, exhaust housings, etc.) looking for an answer or clean what I can, bolt back together, run the motor and check spark plugs for signs of water in cylinders?
    5. I did not do a compression test before starting this project. Can I do a compression test on the starboard 3 cylinders while the port head off or do both heads have to be on to get an accurate reading?

    Anybody that has an idea feel free to chime in here. This motor isn’t too common in S. FL and not many people work on them (too old, nobody wants to **** with it) so I need all the help I can get at this point. See pics below.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Pics of cyl and cyl heads are in order first one is the top, last one is the bottom.
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #3
      Check inner exhaust plate for holes in it.
      Regards
      Boats.net
      Suzuki Outboard Parts

      Comment


      • #4
        Found an older mechanic that used to work on these motors alot back in the day. He said its 99% the exhaust gasket on the side of the cylinders. I also found out that this can be done without removing the powerhead but the clearances are very tight between the exhaust plate and the side cowling of the motor. On this model the side cowling does not come off. An even bigger problem is that there are 4 bolts under the cowling and I dont know how many of the bolts are frozen on there from 13 years, saltwater use, and the heat cycles. If I break a bolt off under the side cowling the powerhead has to come off to drill and tap new threads which is something I dont want to have to do. If I start breaking loose bolts then I have to get them all out and replace gasket. Basically im between a rock and a hard place right now.

        Comment


        • #5
          Its no good as it is...go buy a good penetrant-silikroil or pb blaster..soak all the bolts down and start taking apart

          Comment


          • #6
            Head bolts

            If anybody has the seloc or suzuki manual for this motor can you tell me the torque sequence and torque specs. I dont have the book. I've asked mechanics and looked online for this with some results. The head bolts have "10" stamped on the front but the iboats diagram says the bolts are "8x65" so I dont know if they are 8mm or 10mm. One guy told me they were a grade 5 bolt.
            It looks like I should torque from the middle outward in a circular pattern. The torque specs I am getting is about 20-22ft-lbs using anti-siese or dipping the bolts in oil. The bolts came out dry but im not putting them back in dry. Does this sound right?

            I also did a compression test on the opposite side of the motor and all 3 cyl were 105lbs. Im used to engines having 115-135lbs but if they are all equal pressure does that mean its fine? Anybody know what compression is supposed to be for this motor?

            Comment


            • #7
              Here is a link to a similar topic with torque specs and a diagram of the sequence for future reference.

              http://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/s....html#post7763

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