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DF250 what else besides white wire?

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  • DF250 what else besides white wire?

    So I found this forum after much google searching I thought I had found my problem. All the symptoms led me to believe it was a white wire problem(nothing happens when I turn key, trim works on the motor but not on the throttle). Woke up this morning and tested it at the motor and all the places I saw it connected to fuses they all read 12.9V. So what else could it be?
    Thanks,
    Bob

  • #2
    The white wire comes off the positive terminal of the battery (or the common power terminal of the battery switch if you have dual batteries) and is spliced into the harness that runs from the binnacle to the motor. Somewhere along the white wire, in the harness between the battery and the motor, there is a 15A inline fuse. If this fuse is blown, there will be no power to the key, and no power to anything else at the helm, including the remote trim switch. You can positively isolate the white wire (or the inline fuse) as the problem by temporarily running a wire from the battery positive to the white wire connection at the key switch, leaving the other white wires also connected. There are two white wires joined at the key terminal marked "battery." One of those wires comes from the battery via the fused white wire that is usually referred to by so many posters. The other white wire at that battery terminal on the key switch simply provides a source of battery power from the fused white wire to the trim switch at the helm (in other words, it is always "hot"). So if the fuse is blown, or the white wire going to the harness is not connected to battery positive, or there is a fault in the wire itself, there will be no power to the helm, no power to the key, and no power to the trim switch at the helm. The trim switch on the motor gets its power via a different route.
    Last edited by Harper; 04-24-2014, 11:41 AM.
    Mike
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    • #3
      I found the 15 amp fuse. When I test it it reads 12v. It is connected to my battery directly. I also found where the two wires connect and I tested that and it reads 12v

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      • #4
        If your key switch and kill switch are mounted on a separate panel, and not incorporated into the throttle lever assembly (I assume this is the case), it would seem that you need to double check the electrical connections between the two. If the key, etc. are on the throttle lever housing, it still is an electrical connection problem, within the box itself. If I understand that there is still nothing happening when you turn the key (nothing powers on, no start either?) you have a problem somewhere in the wiring harness between the helm and the motor or in the key switch itself. Are your batteries mounted at the helm or at the stern?

        Finding an electrical fault is a tedious process, but following a logical pattern of continuity and voltage probing, it has to turn up the problem at some point. You haven't said how old the boat or motor is, but you'll need to check all connectors, switches, terminals for corrosion, and may have to even check the harnesses for failed solder joints and splices and for broken wires.

        I don't envy you the job, but I do wish you luck. At some point, we all go through it. Keep us posted.
        Mike
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        • #5
          You are correct, key switch is on a separate panel. Batteries are in the console. Boat is an 07 triton LTS and the motor is an 07 also.

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          • #6
            Yes there is no power at all, all electronics, accessories, and dash switches work.

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            • #7
              Could problem be bad key switch?

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              • #8
                Bad key switch could be cause of total loss of power, but you should still have power to the trim switch on the throttle lever. Unless......(I left my boat on the coast last week, so it's not accessible right now) the splice that joins the incoming white wire (the fused one) to the other white wire that goes to the trim switch is internal to the key switch. I've assumed the two wires are joined on a common terminal. Have a look at your wiring at the back of the switch and see if the two white wires are joined at the plug, or of they come off different terminals. If off different terminals, there could be an internal failure inside the key switch housing that could kill the power to everything. Also if you can access it, check for power at the white wire on the trim switch end. It should always be hot.
                Mike
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                • #9
                  There is only one white wire coming out of the back of the switch. I had to actually get some work done lol, so I'm gonna have to try to test the trim wire tomorrow. Talked to a buddy that works at a local shop and his boss was thinking wiring harness too. He's going to bring me a set of controls to try to trouble shoot the harness next week sometime. Guess there will be no fishing this weekend, at least not from my boat.

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                  • #10
                    Found the problem, there was a short in the wiring harness between the motor and the ignition switch. So instead of pulling the wiring harness, we ran a jumper with a 10 amp fuse directly to the battery.

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                    • #11
                      Works for me....glad you found it.
                      Mike
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                      • #12
                        I have a DF225 2004, I have a key switch in the cabin, I wanted to add another outside the cabin. I ordered a Suzuki keyswicth kit. I connected the wiring according to the color code. The outside switch will not start unless the inside switch is on. The outside switch works when the inside switch is on.. and shuts off the engine when turning the key off.. Do I need to wire the outside switch white wire to another power source ? It is currently connected to the white wire on the inside switch?

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                        • #13
                          yes, the white wire is correct.
                          the wire from your outside switch, the 'out' from the switch should connect to (if I remember correctly) to the gray wire. Did you read my WW sticky?

                          the gray wire sends the power back to the ECM.
                          the white wire is your constant power source, so that should always work. but the others need to be connected to the respective wiring on the return leg sides of the inside switch.
                          the inside trim switch has a jumper from the WW pre-key switch so the trim is always powered. The outside remote should be wired similarly.
                          hope that helps
                          Art
                          Last edited by artdf175; 09-24-2020, 01:05 AM.

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                          • #14
                            hi, I changed the wiring as suggested, the result was: the inside key has to be on for the outside station to start the engine. It will not work if the inside key is off. The outside key switch does nothing until I turn on the inside switch, and the the inside will not start if the the outside key is off.. The only wiring change was the white and grey, all the other wires are connected to the key switch wiring.

                            Looking to get this working HELP

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