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overheat 50 hp 4 stroke 1999

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  • overheat 50 hp 4 stroke 1999

    How strong is the pee stream to be?? still fighting this issue, pee stream NOT strong but there, new impeller, all lines are open, with thermostat out can run water backflow (in the thermostat hole) out inlet pipe and the pee hole good flow, thermostat is opening, boat runs fine on muffs at higher speeds come back to idle and get overheat horn and light, have pulled poppet valve in power head , no problem found, on a side note the tach is not working. I'm afraid to put in water till fixed.

  • #2
    what about the corrosion anode in the block water jacket? have you inspected or replaced it?

    the pee hole water is fed from a T fitting located under the head. take the side covers off so you can get to it and take these hoses apart and blow out all this to be sure there isnt some trash stuck in there interfering with it and do the same for the pee fitting, pull it out and blow it all clear then blow through the fitting with the pee plug out to clear it of anything that might be there.

    I cant remember if the pee hole is fed separately or not but that line also runs through the valve body to warm it for good fuel vaporizing so its possible the restriction is in the valve body because it can get corrosion in it
    Last edited by keakar; 06-12-2014, 10:15 PM.

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    • #3
      I was not aware there was and anode in the cooling system, would that cause a low flow? And where is it located?
      How much of a pee stream is there supposed to be?
      I will pull the side covers and ck all the lines for restrictions.
      This has never been in salt water but the inside of the lower unit and prop have a lot of pitting.
      Sat in Lake Lanier full time for 10 years and on the foam blocks for the last 4yrs

      Thanks
      Last edited by Rickfa; 06-12-2014, 10:30 PM.

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      • #4
        yes look on the side of the block behind the water hose from the thermostat.

        don low there is a little cover plate with a bump in the middle and two 10mm bolts holding it on.

        the bump is where the screw threads for the anode goes into

        look here: 1999 DF50 Suzuki Marine Outboard CYLINDER BLOCK Diagram and Parts

        the cover is part #6 and the anode is part #8 and the anode screw is part #13, if you need to replace it (which im sure you do) buy the anode and the screw since the anode swells around it and you cant separate them. just grab the anode with a pliers and use it to unscrew the screw since they will be fused together. on mine the gasket was in good shape so I reused it and worked fine without any leaks
        Last edited by keakar; 06-12-2014, 11:25 PM.

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