wiring suzuki aux battery lead

[captuperfly]

Hi,
Lots of great info here.

I have a 2015 DF175 and purchased the optional battery isolator lead that connects from the motor to the house bank to charge it directly from the motor, enabling dual charging of the housing and crank banks without an ACR.

I planned on using a Blue Sea dual circuit switch with the system.

To others who have done this, did you connect the house charging lead directly to the battery? Or to the switch? And if to the switch, which pole on the house side - the battery terminal or the output terminal (where the circuit panel connects)

thanks!

[Harper]

The charging lead goes directly to the battery. The Blue Sea switch is only to switch batery power to the systems on your boat. I'll search the forum and provide you a link for the hookup. I posted it some time ago for someone else. Give me time to get the link, and you can look at it there.

[Harper]

All righty....here's the link... http://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/s...r-harness.html ...post #2. The attachments are too small to read, so once you have expanded attachment, click on the enlarged picture to display it in a new tab or page, then zoom in to see the whole setup. These are the two pages in the Setup manual for your outboard showing the dual isolator lead installation.

Basically to further clarify my answer to your question, the wiring from your batteries to your boat's electrical system is completely separate from the battery charging system. So, as the attachments show, the dual isolator charging system is wired directly to the batteries, then the batteries, in turn, are wired to the Blue Sea battery switch to distribute the power thoughout your boat. Of course there is the heavy gauge cable going from the battery switch back to your outboard to provide power to the starter, and the sub-battery cable (white wire) to provide power to most of the motor's electronics.

Hope that's at least slightly clearer than mud.

[captuperfly]

Thanks, Harper. Appreciate it. I received conflicting info from the Blue Sea tech who suggested that I attach the lead to the switch, the pole that goes to the house circuits. I was confused.

I guess question is then, when the switch is off, there's still some potential power to the motor, no?

[Harper]

Nope, no potential to the motor at all. Which Blue Sea switch are you using? My DF150 is hooked up through the 5511e, one circuit for the house, tha other for the motor. When it's off, no power to anywhere (my white wire comes off the terminal to the circuit for the motor). When "on," each circuit is on and each independent of the other, when in the "combine" position, then both batteries are combined in parallel to provide extra amps to crank the motor.

Edit….if your white wire is connected directly to the start battery rather than the start battery terminal at the switch, then there is power to the motor via the white wire with the battery switch off, but without the igniton key on, that power stops at the ECM relay, which is not activated until the ignition key is turned on.

[captuperfly]

also using the 5511e.

So to be clear, right now mine is rigged with the main charging/starter lead and white wire hooked to the output side of the switch (battery one/cranking).

Your suggestion is to wire the new isolator lead set directly to the positive side of the house battery. Then, we also connect the positive side of the house battery to the switch (input pole) and the house circuits to the output pole (battery two, cranking).

negative Batteries and engine ground etc all connected to common ground.

This way, switch off means no power to motor, ignition or house bank. Switch on means power to starter/ignition, house bank.

Motor running charges both batteries separately. Both banks isolated during drain.

Turn to "combine" if for some reason needed to start.

does this make sense?

thanks for all this help.

[Harper]

You got it!!

The only reason my white wire is common to the cable from the 5511e motor output (instead of directly to the start battery) is that:

1. I bought my boat new. The factory installed my Suzuki and wiring for a single battery, and in doing so, wired the white wire into a positive bus on the transom, where the heavy battery cable connects from the battery, which is situated in the center console.
2. The dealer then added the second battery and a Perko switch, with which I could select one battery or the other (whichever battery was selected would power both the motor and the house system), and having no dual isolator harness at the time, it would only charge whichever battery was currently selected by the Perko switch. Then I bought the Blue Sea switch and the dual isolator harness and replaced the original setup. But the white wire stayed where it always was, connected to the positive bus at the transom. And that positive bus is only hot when the Blue Sea battery switch is on.

[captuperfly]

Thanks, Mike!

[Wilzer]

Sorry to come in late

How long is the isolator lead (4) in diagram. Also, if it is not long enough, what wire gauge should be used to extend it?

Thank you

W

[Harper]

It should be plenty long for most applications. I don't remember exactly, but I routed it through a conduit under the flooring from the motor up into my center console, where the batteries are housed. It's a 20' boat , so it's probably around 10', at least. And sorry, I don't recall the gauge, but it was close to 8 or 10 gauge.