New Engine

[ACMAN69]

What do you all Suzuki 140 owners think of your engine? Problems? Praises? Overall performance? Should I buy one? Thanks

[CaptainD]

is a great motor, but if your boat is rated for higher HP the next size up even 10 more HP the 150 has the bigger engine block, would get better performance the engine won't need as much rpms to push it

[jHydroman]

I have pair of DF 140 my 27' aluminum boat and they have performed flawlessly. I have been running them for 10 years in May, the only parts replaced other than routine maintenance items is one of the tilt switches mounted the engine cowling , it failed do to intrusion of saltwater. Each engine have around 500 hours run time. Fuel consumption is approximately 5 gallons per hour for each engine running at 4000 rpms. I did replace the steel engine holder plug within the first hundred hours of operation and I have had no problem with the engine holder corrosion.

Jim

[Moonlighter]

Just a note re the previous poster’s message by Jim - the corrosion in the engine holder on the 140’s appled to motors built up until 2008, the design was changed after that to address that issue. The steel plug was eliminated.

2009 thru 2012 was basically a gen 2 model and was very reliable. Was in the model DF100/115/140 family that shared the same basic design.

Also, the new Df140A series released in 2012 are 10-15% more fuel efficient that the original versions, and actually are a almost totally redesigned model despite sharing same CC capacity. Side by side you wouldnt recognise them with the cowl off, and they sound quite different too.

The A series are now well into their product lifecycle and we rarely hear of any issues with 2016 and newer versions.

If you have a boat that is well matched, its a great choice.

[Greg Moore]

I have a 140a (2013) which is a good motor. It had an idle control valve go SC last summer which fried the ECU, pricey part! Seriously though, total fluke, the IAC that shorted out is the same part used on Suzuki and Mitsubishi cars/trucks and usually goes the life of the car. It's a very quiet motor, surprising low end torque that you can feel and it's pushing a 24ft pontoon that I wouldn't expect to feel 'snappy' The 140 is probably best suited to a sport, semi fast or fast boat. It's a high rev light weight motor. The 150 would be more suited to work boats, maybe pontoons, heavy offshores etc. It's only 10hp and weighs a lot more plus uses the bigger lower case so drags a lot more through the water, not ideal for speed but better for a high hour work boat situation.

[jHydroman]

Has anyone installed a fuse in the IAC circuit to protect the ECU?

Jim

[Greg Moore]

I did.. A 1A inline.. Just cut either wire and use an enviro housing. Not buying another computer!! Any other part that is current driven by the ECU would be obvious if it were to fail, IE an ignition coil kills 1/2 your cylinders. Pure fluke it went short anyway but still.. An ECU on a modern car would actually sense the short, disable the function and throw a light/code for open/shorted IAC but these computers don't have the fault detection built in.

[jHydroman]

Greg,,
Thanks for the reply, I just happen to have a couple of water proof inline fuse holders for mini spade fused.

[D'oh999]

2017 140A, 15 hours. Love it so far. My first 4 stroke, replaced a 20 YO 130 Yamaha.

New boat is a 200 lbs heavier, Almost 4' longer, and more wind resistance, so I lost 7 mph WOT and 5 mph cruise, but hole shot is similar (with SS Prop), loaded and empty. Round trip to the cabin takes 3 imp gals, the 2 stroke Yamaha took 4 imp. gals.. 24 mile round trip, loaded both ways @ 4000 RPM. 30 mph with the Zuke, 35 mph with the Yamaha.