Suzuki C10 MFD on a 2007 DF300

[Moonlighter]

All engine data is sent via 1 wire in the adapter cable/interface cable.

The other 2 wires that are used are power + and batt negative. I dont know what the 4th wire in the interface cable does.

Typlcal colours of red and black for the power wires (or variants thereof with stripes). I recall that either the yellow or white is for the data.

So adapter cable only needs and uses 3 wires.

Trim data on all A series engines and newer goes via the main engine harness, so the 2 pin plug on the EIC isnt used.

I didnt know aout the early DF300 not using the 2 pin plug, and instead sending trim data up the main harness. Learn something new every day!

You should be able to get it working in that case. Go into the network menu, device list, select the Suzuki device. There should be an option to configure. Open that, then there should be a durther option to calibrate trim. Follow the prompts from there.

[Albertan]

The plot thickens. After all this work, it looks like the harness is ok, based on the EIC Installation Manual... https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc...ace_Manual.pdf . It says the trim plug doesn't need to be connected on the DF 300...

[Albertan]

So looking at Browns Point's web site, it looks like I have a single engine adapter and a SMIS Engine interface cable. I feel better that this seems to be the way it is supposed to be. I'm hoping if I don't get an answer here, that calling Browns Point's tech line will be able to sort it out. The engine adapter cable has no plug for the trim switch, so maybe the trim connector on the EIC is only for smaller outboards where it is connected directly to the outboard.

[Albertan]

The last part under the console is the main harness from the outboard. The wires for the EIC come from the part of the harness that is run to the key and start button. Only three wires come off the main harness...black, white and grey...these are carried forward by the adapter harness to the EIC plug in my NMEA network. I'm not sure how the three wires from the engine harness are talking to the seven or so wires in my EIC. Do you happen to have the pin outs for the EIC Grant? I can't find my Service Manual, so I have another one on the way from Brown's Point.

[Albertan]

Connecting the EIC to the main harness from the engine is what I am calling an "adapter harness". It's around a foot long, with a large round 8 pin connector for the EIC on one end, and a square 6 pin connector on the other end. The odd thing is that even though the EIC has wires into 7 of the 8 pins on its connector, this adapter only has three wires on it...white, grey, and black. The adapter hardness also has two wires taped up. It appears these two wires are offshoots of the grey and black wires, as there appears to be solder and shrink wrap in the body of the adapter harness. Note that at the EIC end of the adapter harness next to the plug is a silver Suzuki tag with CENTER ENGINE on it.

[Albertan]

Alright. Crawled under the console and took some pictures tonight. My explanation of what I see runs like this. I have a Suzuki Engine Interface Cable running from my backbone to what I call an adapter harness. The adapter harness then plugs into the main harness that comes from the transom. I'm going to break the pictures up into each of the cables. The pictures attached to this post are for the Engine interface Cable. The tag shows the model number. I also have a second EIC with an older blue plug. The last pictures is the EIC on the bottom, plugged into the adapter harness on top.

[Albertan]

Everything appears to be working except the trim/tilt reading. That hasn't worked for some time, and is what I am trying to fix. I'm also in the middle of changing my rigging as I have a bunch of wires in my splash well I'm trying to clean up (see the attachment). I am the original owner of the boat, and nothing significant has been changed since I have owned the boat. It's used exclusively on freshwater lakes and up until the last season has been stored inside a heated shop whenever it wasn't being used, so corrosion hasn't been an issue.

Your explanation of the SDS rigging on older outboards (mine is a 2007) seems to fit what I have in my boat. I think I will hunt for the trim connector under my console and end my little project there if I cannot find it. I will move the wiring harness under the splash well and through a rigging tube regardless. I've already assessed that and it's a simple matter of unplugging and re-plugging two connectors. Rerouting the three trim wires will require cutting and splicing, but that's a minor project. Thanks Grant.

[Moonlighter]

I am confused - my understanding was that following earlier discussions, you have the network up and running, and all digital data is showing on the gauges?

Is that not correct? So what is the actual problem you have?

The main engine harness will have to run from the engine and up to the throttle controls and then to behind the dash for gauge or interface connection.

So logic says that this is the 4th group of wires going thru the grommet and back to the engine and up to the dash and controls. Maybe sometime in the past the PO had issues with corrosion in the harness and replaced it with a homemade version?

There are 2 main connectors (plugs) from the ecu that can be connected to the main harness that goes back to the boat.

One (the one that is normally connected up at the factory) is for analogue gauges.

The other one that we call the SDS plug, is where the harness can be changed to in order for digital data to go thru the harness up to the dash, where the EIC can be connected. It is the same plug used by the mechanic to connect their laptop to for engine daignostics etc.

On older engines, generally you couldnt send digital data to the dash via the harness as I have just described. In those early days of SMIS gauges, what you had to do was run a SDS adapter cable from the SDS plug, back thru the rigging tube, and connect the EIC to the adapter cable there and then to its T.

This put the EIC and its T down the back of the boat and even in the bilge area! Some people then did the smart thing, and extended the adapter cable so it would reach up to the dash, so the interface could be connected up there, and the EIC and all the T’s could be kept up there where its clean, cool and dry. Smart move. Very.

Why I understand the desire to have things look neat and tidy and factory original, if its working now, why mess with it? If you do decide to do something, the most sensible thing would probably be to buy a complete new harness and install that. You would want to get a complete wiring diagram before you start.

[Albertan]

The white plug in post #28 is the trim plug on a second EIC I have. I have two lying around. This loose one is the older of the two I think, as it still has the old blue connectors.

So I have four items running into the boat through the rigging grommet. One is the battery cables. Second is the fuel line. Third is the three loose wires tapped in for the trim (which looks like a bit of a hack job, but has worked flawlessly for a decade so...).

The fourth is some sort of harness I am not sure about. Under the cowling, it's wrapped in electrical tape where it comes off the main engine harness. It's all wrapped in electrical tape all the way into the starboard cable boot. It branches off a four wire plug and a little double fuse holder before continuing to the grommet. From the outboard to the starboard cable boot, it is all wrapped in electrical tape. Again, this looks a little hokey to me. I don't think it's factory Suzuki. I know this boat outboard was hung at the dealer not the manufacturer, and I think this is the dealer's workmanship. Once in the starboard compartment, It branches off to a double plug and another weather pack with a whole pile of wires. From there it joins the rest of the factory rigging and comes out under the console. It is under the console that the EIC connects to the harness, not at the outboard. I've included photos of everything below.

So I'm kind lost how to proceed here. I could run the EIC right to the outboard, but I don't see any plugs under the cowling to connect it to. I'm going to go back under the console tomorrow night and have a good look around for a trim plug there, because that is far and away the easiest solution to my issue. Nothing has jumped out at me in the past though. I know I had trim reading years ago. I wish I could remember how...

[Moonlighter]

It looks like they have tried to connect trim by jumping those wires from the trim switch and running them to the dash .... but who really knows what they were doing!

On later engines harnesses there is the option to connect the SDS plug on the engine to the main harness and that allows the EIC to connect to the harness up behind the dash. Maybe they have done it that way and been lucky if it worked, or possibly they used a later model harness - its hard to guess on those older installs as to what someone has done. But if it works, leave it alone!

the 2 pin plug in your pic does look like the trim connector.

Do you have an analoge trim gauge! If so does it work? Iwth nothing connected to that 2 pin plug, it shouldnt work. But maybe that dodgy looking wiring from the trim switch has something to do with that? Hard to say.

You could try making up a a long cable to connect that plug to the trim connector on the interface cable if you wanted to try to get trim data onto the network.

The plugs can be purchased from:

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/E...-HM/sm-hm.html

thats where I have bought them in the past.

[Albertan]

More pictures from the starboard and bow.

[Albertan]

Hi Grant. I'm back for more help...

In one of the old posts in this thread, you posted this in response to my trim reading not working on my EIC:

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Probably the trim connector plug on the interface cable was never connected or calibrated. The engine end of the interface cable has 2 plugs - both are white, one is a 4 pin plug (for the engine data) and the other is a 2 pin plug for trim.

If you have a analogue trim gauge, the engine’s trim plug will be connected to the harness under the cowl. If you want trim on the SMIS gauge or HDS, you have to disconnect the plug from the engine harness and connect it to the 2 pin plug on the interface cable. The engine’s trim plug can be a mongrel to find. It is usually tucked down the front of the engine below the cowl line, near the latch. Good luck finding it!! (PS you can have either analogue or digital trim, not both).

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I'm redoing some rigging and had to determine what some loose wires were going into the outboard. It turned out it was three wires tied in to the trim switch on the port side of the outboard. I've included a picture below. Is this the typical way to tie in the SPC at the helm? Seems kinda shoddy to me.

Also, I'm not seeing anything that looks like the plugs I need for the EIC...either the 4 pin plug or the 2 pin trim plug. It seems like everything is "hard wired" into the harness, run to the console, and then the EIC just plugs in there, minus the trim plug. I'll go shoot some pics of the starboard side in case you can see something I am missing. Thanks.

[Moonlighter]

If anyone knows where I can get a LMF-200 (preferably new), please let me know. I'd like to have a spare and the left one I have has somewhat dimmed lighting compared to the others. They seem to be super rare already.

Still listed on Brownspoint’s page...

https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc...e-35p64719.htm

[Albertan]

If anyone knows where I can get a LMF-200 (preferably new), please let me know. I'd like to have a spare and the left one I have has somewhat dimmed lighting compared to the others. They seem to be super rare already.

[Moonlighter]

Looking great!

Good work on reviving the old LMF too. Nice save!

i heard back from the other guy running the C-10’s on the older motor. Everything data wise is perfect on the C-10’s except the engine hrs issue. He tried taking the C-10’s off and checking emgine hrs on his Simrad NSS display and they were same as on the C-10. Which suggests that they are reporting the hrs as per the ecu. As a final check he is going to get to a Suzuki dealer sometime in the future and get them to hook up SDS and check engine hrs to see what it says. The dealer can also probably crosscheck with Suzuki based on the engine serial number to see if its running the original ecu. We will see.......

But the doubt is that he bought the boat second hand and fitted the C-10’s before he used it, so there is a possibility that the PO had to replace the engine ecu before selling the boat - and the new ecu would start at zero hrs. He is speculating that somehow the C-10 reset the ecu hours to zero, but I am pretty skeptical that that is possible. More likley is a software issue with the interface cable.