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Faulty CKP Sensor?

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  • #16
    Replaced the CKP today, everything still the same

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    • #17
      Was the engine fine before the wiring harness was replaced? If so I would concentrate on making sure you have the wiring harness wired correctly.

      Jim

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      • #18
        Originally posted by jHydroman View Post
        Was the engine fine before the wiring harness was replaced? If so I would concentrate on making sure you have the wiring harness wired correctly.

        Jim
        No it wasn’t running. I was trying to run down the issue and found the harness full of corrosion

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        • #19
          So I changed out the CKP and borrowed another ECM, still no spark!!! I’m about at whits end, what am I missing!!

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          • #20
            This is sounding more and more like a wiring issue. Possibly something is not connected up correctly?

            Is the fuel pump running for a couple of seconds when the key is first turned on?

            What about the white wire - where is it connected?

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Moonlighter View Post
              This is sounding more and more like a wiring issue. Possibly something is not connected up correctly?

              Is the fuel pump running for a couple of seconds when the key is first turned on?

              What about the white wire - where is it connected?
              Fuel pump runs and injectors fire when cranking. There’s 12.5V at the coils with the key on. I’m thinking I’m going to look at the grounds again. She uses a Yamaha binnacle with no tach. White wire is not connected, I believe on these small engines, the power is fed from the main + connection at the starter

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              • #22
                Also the kill switch isn’t hooked up

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                • #23
                  I dont know specifics re the smaller engines white wire, and my river tinny with DF40A is presently stored at a friends place so I cant easily go and have a look.

                  However, as per Art’s sticky thread on the white wire, it should NOT be connected at the starter motor + terminal, it should be connected to the + side of the master battery switch, or, direct to the battery +.

                  Yes, it does make a difference. Its a slack shortcut taken by some installers to go to the starter + and it causes problems due to voltage drop. At the very least it is worth making the change to see if this is contributing to the issue you are having. Simple to run a temp wire.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Moonlighter View Post
                    I dont know specifics re the smaller engines white wire, and my river tinny with DF40A is presently stored at a friends place so I cant easily go and have a look.

                    However, as per Art’s sticky thread on the white wire, it should NOT be connected at the starter motor + terminal, it should be connected to the + side of the master battery switch, or, direct to the battery +.

                    Yes, it does make a difference. Its a slack shortcut taken by some installers to go to the starter + and it causes problems due to voltage drop. At the very least it is worth making the change to see if this is contributing to the issue you are having. Simple to run a temp wire.
                    Sorry I wasn’t clear, the white wire isn’t connected at all. It’s gett power from the + cable, reading 12.5v at the bullet connector

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                    • #25
                      Did He have this problem before the harness was replaced or has e it occurred after he replaced it, Red is right in that you need to tell the whole story from the start

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by catacom225 View Post
                        Did He have this problem before the harness was replaced or has e it occurred after he replaced it, Red is right in that you need to tell the whole story from the start
                        The problem existed before harness was replaced. Originally, the engine was running, was shut down for a few hrs then would not start. When I took a look at it, the first thing I found was power issues from the key switch to the engine. Sometimes the engine would turn over sometime it wouldn’t. The main harness was full of corrosion, we had another one so we replaced it. I’ve also tried another keyswitch. When the keyswitch is on, fuel pump runs, IAC activates, 12.5v on the Grey wire at the coils as well as at the injectors. The injectors also fire when cranking. I was getting a 4-2 code so the CKP has been replaced. Also have a loaner ECU that has been tried. The white wire is not hooked to a power source. It has 12.5v at the bullet connector. The battery is a new battery Optima red top

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                        • #27
                          Going to try another set of battery cables next. These look small to me and the positive just gave me a higher resistance reading when I tested them out, maybe getting a high voltage drop?

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                          • #28
                            UPDATE: replaced battery cables, spins over much faster. When I removed old ECU to try loaner, I noticed a burnt ECU pin and black on the plug. Looks like it’s a ground pin.

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                            • #29
                              Burnt connector, I traced it through the harness and the wire terminates about 8” from the ECU and is 3 grounds in one terminal. One goes to the power trim, one goes forward to the main harness, and the other to the ECU. Some level of corrosion in all 3.
                              Attached Files

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                              • #30
                                I was mistaken, the power trim ground is separate. The third wire runs to the small square connector on front of the engine you would plug a digital gauge into or the engine interface cable.

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