DF115 Overheat Alarm

[Tidnish]

Hello,

I have a 2004 DF115 with about 180 hours on a Campion Allante. Great motor, quiet and efficient. It has the dreaded Holder Plug Corrosion but more on that later. (Its not leaking yet and I'm certain is not part of the following issue)

Over the winter, I changed plugs, oil, filter, and installed a spin-on type fuel filter between the tank and primer bulb. On the weekend, I ran the boat for the first time this year. Idled out of the river for about 10 minutes then leaned on it. Ran WOT for about 30 seconds when the overheat alarm went off, red light flashing on dash and warning beep. It probably went into Limp Mode but honestly, I was shocked at the alarm and don't remember. Throttled it back to 2000 rpm and putted along for about 5 minutes with the alarm continuing. The tell-tale was putting out a steady stream during this time and wasn't terribly hot, just warm.

After 4-5 minutes with the alarm going, I shut the engine off and drifted for 2 minutes, then fired the engine. It started no problem, maybe cranked a second or too longer then normal before it caught, but ran fine at idle and several short bursts up to 4000 rpm.

Ran the boat the next day at up to 4,000 rpm for extended periods, say 10 minutes, and didn't have any alarms. Seemed to operate normally with the possible exception of cranking a second or two longer than normal when starting.

So, what happened? I will say there is some sea weed in the river and its possible the water intake clogged, but I'm aware of this and do keep an eye on the tell-tale. At WOT, its not always easy to see it so....

Could I have done something related to the maintenance to cause the issue?

What are the chances of any long term damage to the engine?


Thanks Fellow Suzuki Owners! Appreciate any input.

[Tidnish]

Adding to the above, how do I install a temperature gauge to a DF115? From Google, it seems a water pressure gauge is preferred and kits are available to add one.

When I look at the top of the motor, I see the current temperature sender but don't think I can tap into this to add a gauge. I also see a threaded plug, maybe a 1/2"NPT, and I wonder if this is where I can add a sender for a temperature gauge? On the attached picture, the plug is below and to the left of the existing sender. Anyone know if this is correct and what temperature gauge kit I need?





top.jpg

[Tidnish]

After doing some more reading, seems a water pressure gauge is the way to go. There are several manufacturers that make a kit and it seems to plumb into the water cooling lines on the starboard side of the motor.

Is this a reasonable way to go to monitor temperature in the outboard by monitoring water pressure?

[artdf175]

Question : the one thing you didn't mention was changing the impellor in the water pump. When was this changed?
Even though it has low hours for a 2004 engine - for water pumps it isn't just hours that determines the time to replace them

What type of chart plotter do you have?
I would have to dig a bit further to see if the 2004 has the ability to add an engine interface cable and then readout the data on your chart plotter
Art

[Tidnish]

Not sure on the water pump age. I bought boat a year ago and checked the pump at the time. Looked fine and I didn't replace it. I do have a new one ordered and will replace it soon.

No chartplotter on the boat so I'm looking at a discrete gauge. Water pressure seems to be the most available option.

[Moonlighter]

When you service the water pump, put a new housing in as well as an impeller. Housing minght look OK but a small warp in it and water pressure will not be as good or consistent as it should be. So best to replace it.

[Tidnish]

What am I missing??

Replaced water pump (impeller, base plate, and gasket). Straight forward install, no issues. Buttoned everything up and ran in a barrel, no telltale stream! So I opened everything up again and checked the usual places, everything in its proper place, water tube properly inserted, etc. Back together and ran on muffs fine. Dropped it back in a barrel and still wouldn't pump! No telltale!

Apart again and put the original base plate and impeller in (in reasonable shape although there is some grooving in the base plate wear surface). Ran on muffs great, dropped in barrel and it pumped fine.

So, I'm missing something but I can't see what. The water tube slip connection seemed a little loose and its possible the rubber connector is a bit hard which may allow a less then perfect connection but why would this affect the now vs old pump?

Any thoughts?

[catacom225]

over heat

Dumb question but are you sure the impeller blades are facing the wright way

[Tidnish]

Yes, I an SURE the impeller fins were headed the right way.! Also sure the water tube is properly engaged. I've replaced a few water pumps in the past, mostly on Mercury and Yamaha outboards, and this one seems very similar, if not easier. It was so simple, I thought I missed something. Maybe a part fell out, or ? but when I look at the parts diagrams, they are all there. This isn't a tough job, but.....

What confounds me is why the old one works and the new one doesn't. Parts look the same. Impeller is the same dimensions. Base plate is the same. I installed them the same way, one after the other. This seems to rule out another issue somewhere else, like a thermostat, plugged intake, ?

Its almost as if the new one doesn't have the same pumping power and won't pick up the water when running in the bucket. It will pump when on the muffs but there is some pressure from the muffs that may be helping?


Any suggestions?