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2006 175hp Not Starting...

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  • 2006 175hp Not Starting...

    Hello, I'm new here, but I have been reading the posts about the White Wire (WW) issue. So I followed the troubleshooting on that issue with no luck. But let me describe the situation...

    I've always had issues with water in the fuel after the boat has sat for a few months. Back in December (2018) we went out to set some shrimp pots (we live in SE Alaska) and about 10 minutes into the trip the engine died. My fault, I usually monitor the Racor several times when first starting out after sitting, but this time the water got to me before I checked it. Because the boat had been sitting for a few months before this trip, the batteries were already low, and after I drained the Racor, they didn't have enough power left to get the engine started again. So we came back in on the kicker.

    After I got the boat home I drained the filter on the engine and got it running again, using the water ears. I only ran it for a minute or so.

    The boat sat until yesterday, when I brought it home from storage. I had completely drained the fuel tanks a few weeks ago (they're portable tanks), and put in new gas on the way home yesterday. Also replace both Racor filters (main and kicker.) Tried to start it and the engine cranked slow and there was no attempt to fire up. So I hooked up the jumper cables to my truck and it cranked faster, but still no attempt to fire up. Put in two new marine batteries, and changed the spark plugs (gapped to .032)... cranked almost normal speed, but no attempt to fire off.

    So at this point I'm reading forums for help. The WW issue comes up and I check it out. Unfortunately my Fluke is at work, which is in Oregon, so I'm just checking things visually. The trim/tilt works on the remote and on the engine. The gauges work (tach w/led read out on the bottom, and the trim position indicator.) Obviously the starter is working. I hear a quick buzz from the engine when I turn the key to 'on'. Tried wiggling the throttle to see if it was the neutral safety switch, same with the kill switch, no change.

    Now I'm wondering if it's getting spark, so I pull a spark plug lead, ground it out to the engine block (small gap) and the wife cranks the engine... we've got spark. So now I'm wonder about fuel... I get fuel all the way to the high pressure pump using the fuel bulb.

    So I grab a can of starting fluid (I know, I know) and give it a shot into the intake (which is not exactly obvious) and crank the engine... nothing.

    I want to think it's the high pressure fuel pump, or it's filter, or the needle valve, but can't figure out why the engine didn't even attempt to fire once or twice on the starter fluid.

    My next step is to take apart the high pressure fuel pump, which is fine, except I'll have to order any parts I fine bad.

    Thanks for any thoughts.

    suzuki175hungontransom2.jpg
    moser1.jpg
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Update...

    Decided to pull apart the vapor separator and check out the HP fuel pump. It's a bit corroded and when I applied 12v it didn't move...

    IMG_3697.jpg4It54%bmQrK4kCLOMKRF1w.jpg

    The pressure regulator has some corrosion too, otherwise it looked good in there. The pump screen had some dirt, but not enough to impede the flow.

    sjnU4s+iST+SwxdB6bleWQ.jpg

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    • #3
      hello from Oregon
      also have a '06 175
      the WW problem occurs when you typically have no power to the engine when you turn the key
      from what you are explaining it is still a fuel issue
      the high pressure fuel pump may have gone bad from water that may have sat in the bottom of the VSP so that would be true first thing the news attention when you turn the key- you should get 4 or 5 seconds of hearing the pump pressure up the fuel rail if you are not hearing that it is a good indication to start there.
      fuel -- are you using straight unleaded fuel? The alcohol laced fuel has a very short shelf life
      would suggest something like marine stabil (spell) at every fill-up - it should help with the water issue
      and a good fuel injector cleaner. at least for one tank of fuel

      also from you comment on the water in the fuel filters - you may have not got all the water out of the system if you didn't blow out the fuel rail

      good luck
      Art
      Last edited by artdf175; 05-26-2019, 12:22 PM. Reason: edit

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the help. Pretty sure it was your posts that led me to the HP pump in the first place. I was hoping it was a WW issue, as I could have fixed that with some rewiring . But nope.

        You’re right about the pump noise. When I turned the key to the on position there was just a quick buzz. Not a several second pump noise. I was hoping it would run directly connected to the battery, but still wouldn’t have reinstalled it at this point. No way I want to have it quit out on the water. In the picture above if the boat anchored off the beach, we were 60 miles from town... any town. Distances here are just too far to run home in the kicker sometimes.

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        • #5
          Oh, all the gas in Alaska is ethanol free.

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          • #6

            I am surprised with portable fuel tanks that you would have a water problem in such a short time with ethanol free fuel. does your fuel/water have a glass bowl that you can see if there is water?
            I think there is a bolt like plug in the bottom of the fuel rail, I would remove that and pump fuel through that part of the system or use a compressor to blow everything out
            I have had the high pressure pump out only once to check the fuel filter I didn't look at the pump to see if you can disassemble it. If it isn't going to work, there is nothing lost taking it apart

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