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2002 DF140 - Should Oil Cooler be rebuilt or simply replaced when leaking oil?

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  • 2002 DF140 - Should Oil Cooler be rebuilt or simply replaced when leaking oil?

    Looking to see if they can be rebuilt successfully or are they never quite the same once taken apart. I have mine off now the engine now and can see corrosion coming from where it seals. Just don't want to waste my time rebuilding with the false hopes of working correctly.

  • #2
    Just looked at cost of new part, YIKES! I assume the kit has the accordion looking part and seals? I had mine out a few years back, completely apart. I replaced the seals, pretty straight forward. I had to soak assembly in some stuff to remove a small amount of scale build up. The main housing that had inlet water tubing was in good shape. I would rebuild if it included the accordion looking part, as it was the only part that had any corrosion the surface, which cleaned up with wire brush. So... depending on what comes in the kit would make my decision.

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    • #3
      Yea, $225! that accordion looking part you are talking about seems to be part of the cooler and can't be bought separately. The 4 "O' rings can be ordered for just under $30 bucks but don't wanna throw good money at a bad idea and still have to but they whole thing after the fact. lol

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      • #4
        Bypass It, disconnect the inlet and outlet and join them together. If you have a look inside one you will see how just a few grains of salt or sand would be enough to block or restrict the flow of cooling water

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        • #5
          I guess you could by-pass it as suggested but the cooler most be there for a reason. I had success rebuilding mine 3 years ago. Here is a link to a post (3rd post in the thread) I made the season following the rebuild.

          https://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/...-crankcase-oil

          I cleaned up both sections of the cooler, re-building minor corrosion at the o-ring seats using "Metalset" which is a powdered aluminum/epoxy compound which is used to build up scored shafts by some of the elevator maintenance mechanics. I was able to purchase proper sized o-rings from a local hydraulic repair supplier. Probable had $15 in "Metalset" and $6 - $8 in o-rings. They have never leaked since.

          So, to answer your original question, yes, if it were me, I'd rebuild them assuming the corrosion of the casting at the o-rings is not beyond repair. It is easy to apply and dress down.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by catacom225 View Post
            Bypass It, disconnect the inlet and outlet and join them together. If you have a look inside one you will see how just a few grains of salt or sand would be enough to block or restrict the flow of cooling water
            Do NOT do this, regular maintenance is simple and required, but often over looked, just make sure everything is clean and it's an easy job.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by noelm007 View Post

              Do NOT do this, regular maintenance is simple and required, but often over looked, just make sure everything is clean and it's an easy job.
              Open one up and you see it would only take a grain of salt or sand to obstruct or stop the flow of water through either the inlet or outlet, I personally take mine apart every other oil change and there's always some residue salt in there restricting flow . And if i remember correctly the 115hp does not even use an oil cooler

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              • #8
                You can please yourself what you do with your own motor, but, advising others to do silly things is not the way to do things.

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                • #9
                  I deleted mine at 1250 hours. Engines are now at 1890 hours ... although one powerhead just got replaced due to water in oil from another source.



                  2003 DF140īs

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