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  • White Wire Tracing/Troubleshooting

    I have reviewed the boats.net sticky and studied my service manual. Hoping this is an easy question but I can’t seem to line up my wiring with the wiring diagram from the service manual.

    Facts: 2015 DF300AP, recently added a Garmin MFD - went well, adjusted some wiring positions on my NMEA 2000 network (position of T’s), repositioned troll switch on dash, tested everything after changes and was fine.

    Came back later to clean up my wire routing bundles and half way through checked my ignition key switch and got nothing. Getting no power at the ignition, no tilt/trim from binnacle switch, no power to Suzuki gauge.

    Based on my reading and intuition this is a white wire problem.

    Troubleshooting steps:

    • Starting at battery - voltage good
    • White/black wires with ring connectors (labeled battery and has 30 amp inline blade fuse - voltage good at 2 pin connector
    • Red/Black 3’ jumper wire connects to end of white/black wire with 2 pin moles connector. Opposing end of jumper wire is a 4 pin molex connector where the 4 pins splice in the engine interface cable and heads off to my NMEA backbone, checked the voltage at the end of the 4 pin and voltage is good
    • Black/White/Gray/blank 4 pin connector connects to the wire harness in the console labeled “center engine”. Checked voltage at the end of this wire and only get 5 volts.

    Attaching a drawing for reference.

    Question, can someone help me confirm the wiring at the connection of the red/black jumper wire and red/black/gray center engine connection. At the connection of the dotted line in the drawing.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Can’t find the edit button, so want to clarify what I posted -
    • I arranged the pins so that 12v is supplied via the black and white wire which plug into the “center engine” connector on the wiring harness.
    • I checked the voltage at the connection between the wiring harness and the ignition key switch and only get 4.5V. This leads me to believe I have a short in the harness.
    • I decided to jump around the white wire in the harness and spliced directly to the white lead into the ignition key switch. Bingo- I now have power to my lowrance gauge and tilt/ trim function at the binnacle.
    • Still no power to my start/stop button though, believe it should be supplied power from the remote key ignition “on” position. Is this accurate or does the white wire split in the harness and provide direct power to both the ignition key switch and start/stop button?

    Still seeking some input on how the wiring should be at the connections in the drawing at the dotted line? Including a picture of what it looks like.
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      Can anyone point me in the right direction?

      Comment

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