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Does anybody know anything about wiring up a T-H Marine 65002 CMC Power Lift?

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  • Does anybody know anything about wiring up a T-H Marine 65002 CMC Power Lift?

    I bought one used for a good price to compensate for a few problems with my DF 140. On the best bolt position it's too low when I raise it up, so it's not fully out of the water. And one notch higher it does sometimes go to high in waves. But this unit comes without a wiring harness. I have looked at the harness, it seems like it's just reversing the polarity of the power sendt to the actuator. So a pair of two channel relays is used, one relay for up, sending power + to one cable and - to the other cable, and another relay for down that does the same, only with reversed polarity. I mailed T-H Marine about it, and they very quickly (about five minutes) answered that no, I needed the 7014G wiring assembly "for the unit to work properly". So is that actually needed to operate it, or is it just a way of saying "we want to sell you at least one new part when you've been so naughty and bought one of our jack plates used"?

    In the troubleshooting section of the company's web page it says:

    "If your jack plate only runs one way, but not the other, jump the power cord directly to 12V battery. Follow the black power cord coming out of the unit’s motor to the disconnect point. Disconnect the blue and green wires from the relay harness. Now the green and blue wires can be directly jumped to a 12V battery by touching the green wire to the positive post of the battery and the blue wire to the negative post of the battery at the same time. Reversing this connection will run the unit in the opposite direction."

    To me that suggests that only the relays (and of course a fuse) are needed to get this to work. But of course it would be a bad thing to mess up something that even used is quite expensive...
    Mastif in Norway, with a 2011 MS Boats S6900, 2011/2012 Suzuki DF 140

  • #2
    Just curious what price they were quoting you for the part. I've tried to mellow a little and sometimes will spend a few dollars when it save so much work time. Plus using their harness makes your set up Cadillac. Come on....

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    • #3
      Me too, actually. But I still balance time spent on making my own solution with the price of an original solution. I have seen it for $150, but there is one eBay shop that sels it for 72 dollars, without the switch. Plus 60 dollars shipping to Norway if I want it at the same time as the jack, not up to a month later. So around $130. In addition that we have Norwegian sales tax, so between 160 and 170 dollars. Instead I'll use maybe between 20 and 40 minutes more (I'd have to do most of the work anyway) and get a cleaner setup with fewer cables by using this, which costs me about 25 dollars with a switch. So I save 135-145 dollars on max 40 minutes. That will give me a Mercedes system that I know will take wear, tear and power. Just like my Mercedes EQC (in Norway electrical cars are very cheap because they have no sales tax and no other taxes, so my electrical Mercedes costs less than 1/4 of an Escalade ).
      Attached Files
      Mastif in Norway, with a 2011 MS Boats S6900, 2011/2012 Suzuki DF 140

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      • #4
        I missed the part where you live. Sorry brother, I would be figuring it out the same as you, which appears you've solved. Sure am glad to live in the great state of Texas, it was a mild mid 40F am and beautiful day near 60F high. Whew... Norway. Thanks for sharing your solution. Good job.

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        • #5
          We have around freezing point today, but it could be a lot worse.
          Mastif in Norway, with a 2011 MS Boats S6900, 2011/2012 Suzuki DF 140

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