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I have a few posts regarding my engines and got really good feed back. My 26' Glacier Bay is in the water. I went for test drive with 240 gallons of gas and topped out at 37 mph, which is good. Problem, looked down and the 2 Commander Tachometers and the Speed/Sonar gauges were completely dead. The were working before high speed test.
Checked for voltage on the 4 and 6 wire connectors an all was good but I do not have Hz on my multi meter for rpm signal. Cycled through multimeter tests for key switch and gauges, pushed gauge buttons and cycled key switch multiple times. Eventually, I Got one tach to display two LED character but no response to buttons. Other tach had a partial outline of one character; however, I pushed several buttons and the LED overloaded with every LED pixel on. Continued to cycle through the same tests and miraculously one tach went back to normal operations. Plugged both engines to the good tach and there are real readings from both engines and no readings on the bad tach. Speedometer still dead.
Anyone know of instrument resets, tests or fuses that might bring the remaining gauge back to life before I ship it off to Faria for a $150 repair. I am guessing that it might be a power surge as I did my 37 mph test with battery selector set to both batteries. My next move is to slowly pry off the metal ring/collar and look inside for 16 years of corrosion
FYI - I recently installed 2 new batteries, cleaned large fuse housings, the battery selector switch and connections. It was a good move as at at my GPS and Autopilot I Typically would get around 11.1v to 12.1v (engine off) and 13.7 v (engine on). With cleaning and new batteries it is now 13.5v to 14.2v respectively.
Checked for voltage on the 4 and 6 wire connectors an all was good but I do not have Hz on my multi meter for rpm signal. Cycled through multimeter tests for key switch and gauges, pushed gauge buttons and cycled key switch multiple times. Eventually, I Got one tach to display two LED character but no response to buttons. Other tach had a partial outline of one character; however, I pushed several buttons and the LED overloaded with every LED pixel on. Continued to cycle through the same tests and miraculously one tach went back to normal operations. Plugged both engines to the good tach and there are real readings from both engines and no readings on the bad tach. Speedometer still dead.
Anyone know of instrument resets, tests or fuses that might bring the remaining gauge back to life before I ship it off to Faria for a $150 repair. I am guessing that it might be a power surge as I did my 37 mph test with battery selector set to both batteries. My next move is to slowly pry off the metal ring/collar and look inside for 16 years of corrosion
FYI - I recently installed 2 new batteries, cleaned large fuse housings, the battery selector switch and connections. It was a good move as at at my GPS and Autopilot I Typically would get around 11.1v to 12.1v (engine off) and 13.7 v (engine on). With cleaning and new batteries it is now 13.5v to 14.2v respectively.
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