2017 DF25ATL2 drops down to 3000 rpm

[timf1981]

2017 DF25ATL2 with remote control

2 years ago, every once in a while i would be driving along in my 16.5ft Alumicraft Escape . And the rpms would cut back to 3000 rpms.
The engine would run just fine like this but would not go over 3000 rpms when it had been cruising along at 5200 rpms.
The first time it happened i was on a large lake in Northern Minnesota. At the time i didn't dare turn it off for fear of not starting.
I made it to camp . After turning off the engine and restarting it ran fine. Even at 5200 rpms.
So i went back and set up camp. Later that day i went out fishing. After hitting a couple of spots close by i decided to head to the next bay. I was cruising at 5200 rpms when again the motor just cut back to 3000 rpms. If i shut the motor off and restarted it would idle good, and might get back up to 5200 rpms for a while then just cut back to 3000 rpm , still running just fine.

I limped around like this for three days. Sometimes cruising at 5200 rpms for long distances then it would start acting up.
When i got home i put my eBay Suzuki scanner on it and had no codes. BPR scanner i believe.
While up at the lake despite having fresh gas for the trip. i flushed new gas thru the system and cleaned both filters. No change. After getting back home to Minneapolis i flushed it again.
Went out on the lake to watch some fireworks. It cut back three times before getting a quarter mile.
The next time out a buzzed around our lake for an hour. , It ran fine at 5200 rpm.
The boat was used little if any the rest of the year. The next year i took it out on a nearby lake and buzzed around for an hour with no issues. the next week took it back up north. It ran fine the first day but the second day it ran good for ten minutes then cut back to 3000 rpm. No codes, no buzzing that i can recall. I dont remember checking the three lights on the engine. I know, my bad

A new symptom popped up recently. Occasionally i get no crank when i turn the key. I can always get it started by shifting it out of neutral and back in, and it will start.

QUESTIONS...
1. Is there a neutral switch on the engine as well as in the remote control?
2. Will not resetting the oil change alarm, trigger the cut back to 3000 rpm? I have done all my own maintenance and did not know about the reset procedure. Should this set a code?
Last year i did put a oil pressure gauge in place of the Oil pressure switch and i had good pressure at idle. I dont think i read the pressure at 5200 rpm.

3. The dealer recently gave me a laminated card with the reset code for the remote. I was told the engine would beep after doing the reset procedure. Mine did not beep. can anyone test there engine to see if theirs beeps every time even if you reset it three times in a minute. I have not bussed around after the reset.

4. I believe some larger Suzuki outboards have two neutral safety switches. One on the motor and one in the controller. If i am cruising along at 5200 rpms and 17 mph and the neutral switch were to open up, would the computer limit the engine to 3000 rpm and if so would it throw a code?

5. Is there a neutral switch adjustment on the controller? Or is the switch just a replacement item? Is this tricky to take apart

here is the controller i have....
https://www.crowleymarine.com/suzuki...25at-p03?ref=7

6 The outfitter i sleep at before putting in in the morning has the same motor as I do, I am not sure if the year is the same. He had his high pressure fuel pump replaced. But i dont think we had quite the same symptoms.


So did i
A....chase an issue for two years when a simple oil reminder reset would have solved it?
B....Or is it a loose neutral switch in the controller that is now giving me two symptoms? C....Or is it really my hi pressure fuel pump?
D.... none of the above?

Here is the updated fuel pump part number for my engine.
15200-94L11 and have found it at these 6 locations. Are there any sellers here you would stay away from?

Browns point $376
Precision marine $345
Boat.net $367
PartsVu $342
PPT performance product technologies $338
Marine parts source $334

What other information would you like?

[artdf175]

Tim I read a couple of your posts
first Neutral safety switch
has nothing to do with rpm problem
there is 2 as you have obviously disvovered
the one in the controller keeps power from the key switch to work if the controller is not in neutral
the second works on the gear shift so the engine will not start in gear.. the fact that you are not having starting issues tells you they work properly

restarting engine after rpm drop turning key off resets the computer

do you have the engine interface cable that allows you to see engine stats on your MFD?
If so watch the RPM display -- my guess you will see the RPM spike off the gauge and drop to zero
The spiking puts the engine into a safe mode... runs without spiking for some period and engine goes back to a normal RPM

If you see this pattern disconnect interface cable
I fought this problem for two years before i discovered this

don't understand fuel pump ??? this is not a fuel issue

Art

[timf1981]

I have the ebay BPR SDS system and a NMEA2000 CABLE THAT HOOKS UP MY LOWRANCE fish finder and i can see rpm and water temp and fuel consumption. I dont think there is a way to run both at the same time.

So did you just give up on the nmea2000 all together?

I Don't know if i ever tried disconnecting the nmea2000 when i was having issues. On one trip with my brother i thought i saw a 7000rpm pop up just for an instant on the fish locater right at rpm drop. But could never see it again.
Would this spike register as an over rev in the motor computer?

On my last boat trip on my last day and heading in I tried hooking up my sds . but later found out i was having a com port conflict on my laptop but i am sure i just switched the plugs back to the nmea.
i have driven my boat around at home with no issues. Looking back I know one of these times my fish locater was left in the garage. Would having the fish locator being hooded up or not affect the rpm drop?

I saw a 2023 post where Moonlighter discussed a neutral safety switch possibility and a voltage drop or spike at the ecm caused by the infamous white wire corrosion.

I dont know if i have a second neutral assy switch under the motor cowling.
I have had the intake manifold completely off and the fuel pump high pressure and the fuel rail and the vapor separator all off. and fuel filters. I don't recall a micro switch under the cowling near the gear selector cable. I could have moved it but forgot to put it back. It could be tucked back out of the way somewhere. Nor have i seen it in the piss poor parts finding catalogs on line. One must search thru a hundred poorly labeled parts diagram to find your part. And i still dont know the difference between a df25a and a df25ar or Q . But they have different neutral safety switch numbers locate in the controller. None that i could find that looked like they were under the cowling.

What size motor do you have? or had that had the problem on so disconnected?

I also believe moolighter mentioned a service bulletin . I think it had to do with the nmea2000 cable. does this ring a bell.
I have never had a no start problem. But if the nmea2000 cable is the issue. I will be sure to let you know. And i will get back to you later on one of the theories on the white wire issue.
I hope to get it out on the water today. Hopefully the glitch will show up.
Thanks...

[artdf175]

The nema2000 may provide other data so not suggesting take it out
just need to unplug the part that is connected to the engine
it is I am guessing the SDS plug
Yes I gave up on that connection
my depth finder transducer is connected to the nema2000 network along with Vhs so would not want to take that part out

I have a DF 175 engine
Art

[artdf175]

part#6
didn't show the parts page
look for shift rod