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rodney witt

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  • rodney witt

    hello, I NOT SURE I AM DOING THIS RIGHT. BUT I HAVE DT65 SUZUKI ON MY PONTOON..CUTS OUT AFTER ABOUT 2 MIN. AND THEN SEEMS TO RUN ON TWO CYL. I HAVE CHANGED PLUGS. CHECK FIRING . CLEAN INBOARD TANK AND REMOVED FUEL PICKUP TUBE AND IS CLEAR...REPLACED ALL FUEL LINES..REBUILD ALL CARBS..THEY LOOKED NEW...REBUILD FUEL PUMP..CHECK COMPRESSION.. ALL CYL. ARE VERY GOOD AND SAME...ALSO UNPLUG OIL SENSOR AT BOTTOM OF OIL TANK AND I MIXED MY OIL IN MY GAS TANK..AND ALSO DISCONECTED WATER SENSOR.. AND STILL CUTS OUT..BUT SEEMS TO RUN OK AT 45OO RPMS BUT REALLY CUTS OUT AT 5OOO ON UP..SEEMS TO CUT OUT ON LOAD..I ALSO HAVE A NEW GAS FILTER WITH WATER SEPERATOR..WHAT IS MY PROBLEM? DO I HAVE A COIL GOING BAD? THE GAS IS FLOWING FREE AND THE BOWLS ARE FILLING UP OK...ANY SUGESTIONS ?

  • #2
    What year is the motor? Do you have the Suzuki monitor gauge hooked up? What rpm does it run at during the first 2 minutes?

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    • #3
      suzuki dt 65 1988 year

      I run about 5000 rpms..sometimes I run around 6000 rpms.. and the year of the engine is what I believe to be 1988 model. that is the year of my pontoon.. about or three years ago I run full throttle for about 30 min. and the engine slowed down ..my moniotor had a red light and said I was over speeding the engine..so I slowed down about 15 min..and never did that again...always ran well till last year..

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      • #4
        Post the serial number, sometime in 88 they changed from a throttle position switch to a throttle position sensor. The rev over limit is set at 5900 so that should be tripping the red light on the monitor assuming it's not burned out. Since unplugging the water sensor didn't fix the issue, I would reconnect it given that it monitors water flow and head temperature.
        I have some electrical parts for that motor if it comes to that, if you want, send me a Private Message with your email so you can send some pictures.

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        • #5
          suzuki dt 65

          the serial number is 06502 705939 when the red light came on about three years ago..it did go out and never came on again..only reason i disconnected the temp sensor was just to try to see if it made a differance...did not..and on the right side of the engine there is a knob that says idle low to fast. but according to the specs on the info on this sight says this switch is a timing switch..it is set middle ways....Thanks Rodney..look forward hearing from you..what pictures do you want....let me know...

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          • #6
            Your motor is a 1987 model. Does the problem seem related to heat? That is, when it occurs, can you shut off the ignition-restart-and the problem is still there, or does it run OK again for 2 min. While you're checking, have someone else drive during the malfunction and check to see if the primer bulb is firm or collapsed.
            I have a good coil if you want to eliminate that possibility, click on my username and add me to your contacts, then send friend request.

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            • #7
              Did you ever get to the root cause of this. I have the same motor and same exact problems. It seems to idle fine and the carb, fuel line etc. were all gone through by a marine mechanic. It only occurs under load and seems to pick up full power for a few seconds then the drop back to two cylinders then pick up again. Coils have been checked and are okay. TPS???

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              • #8
                Rodney, first off, the 2 stroke motors are NOT meant to run 6k RPMs. This is the reason the red light came on, sounds like you have the wrong prop for your boat. Best rpm you should be running is 5500. If your motor is able to go higher, you need to re-prop.
                If this fixes your problem, then the limiter is trying to protect your motor. If running at 5500, and still having issues where a cylinder seems to be dropping out, check compression first (because of running at 6k RPMs), but then I'd try to identify which cylinder is dropping out, and check the timing coil for that cylinder, it may be breaking down under load at higher RPMs.

                It could still be fuel related if one of your carb float adjustments is slightly under specs, it may be slightly surging at top speed (5500 RPMs). Or, possibly a piece of task on the backside of the needle valve seat, limiting flow of fuel going into bowl on one carb.

                Not an easy task having to test at full throttle, but it's important to know if fuel or spark related.

                Good luck, keep is posted on how you're doing, when able.

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                • #9
                  Captduder, understand you have similar problems with same/ similar motor. And it's ok to drop a response here in Rodney's thread, but please start your own thread, so the forum can read your problems, and advise for your motor. As well as get all the needed info, and work you've done.
                  Thnx.

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