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DF140 MAP sensor code 32 water in fuel?

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  • DF140 MAP sensor code 32 water in fuel?

    Thanks in advance.

    Is it possible that you can get check engine flashing code 3-2 caused by water in the fuel, or is it pretty for sure the MAP sensor is not happy?

    2005 DF140 with only 200 total hours ... started fine, ran at dock for about 5 minutes, then sputtered and quit.

    Then turns over, started twice maybe, then died. Very good condition under cowling, siliconed always, like zero corrosion.

    Took the cowling off, no difference. Won't start for more than a second roughly, but seemingly randomly once more. Seems to be firing.

    Definitely getting the 3-2 flash and 3-2 beeps.

    Disconnected the MAP sensor and same code, but no fire at all this time.

    Since it didn't change with the cowling off, I assume it's not the exhaust leak from corrosion problem. It wont even start.

    I'm leaning toward the sensor just bad but want to rule out water in the fuel since it sat for so long. Could it be water yet getting the 3-2 code?

    Thanks in advance again.

  • #2
    Check the fuel filter bowl on the engine, if there is water, then water contamination could be a problem.
    Regards
    Boats.net
    Suzuki Outboard Parts

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    • #3
      Originally posted by boats.net View Post
      Check the fuel filter bowl on the engine, if there is water, then water contamination could be a problem.
      Thanks for helping. I appreciate it.

      How do you "check the fuel filter bowl on the engine"? I see the translucent blue filter there in a slip-in clamp. Does it come apart? If there was water would I see two distinct fluids in there through the plastic bowl? Or do you suggest disconnecting it and pouring contents into a glass?

      Thanks again!

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      • #4
        Water in fuel can cause them to go bad. It does take alot of water to do this. I would look to see where this water is coming from. Pump out your tank to where it is completly dry. Replacethe map sensor. I believe they are about 210 to 250 a piece. Mabe get a racor type filter or two if you forsee a continued problem with water in the fuel.

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        • #5
          don't want to scare you, but I guess you have read about the corrosion issue? in some cases, it can melt the wiring harness and that gives the map sensor code too.

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          • #6
            Pull the map sensor off and make sure the little hole in the manifold is not blocked. That code is for pressure detect, when you crank the engine the ecu should see a voltage changing from around four volts to around one to two depending on manifold vacum. Even if you had water in the fuel it should not have thrown that code because the ecu would have seen the changing voltage. The simplest way to check the fuel just pull the hose off the low pressure fuel pump and use the prmer and sqeeze some fuel into a bucket. Remember this, any time the engine misses or won't run properly it will effect the map sensor so it is very important to check it properly so you don't waste 250 smackers.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by redlowrey View Post
              Pull the map sensor off and make sure the little hole in the manifold is not blocked. That code is for pressure detect, when you crank the engine the ecu should see a voltage changing from around four volts to around one to two depending on manifold vacum. Even if you had water in the fuel it should not have thrown that code because the ecu would have seen the changing voltage. The simplest way to check the fuel just pull the hose off the low pressure fuel pump and use the prmer and sqeeze some fuel into a bucket. Remember this, any time the engine misses or won't run properly it will effect the map sensor so it is very important to check it properly so you don't waste 250 smackers.
              Thanks for this. My gut is saying the sensor is ok and something else is triggering it. I will use your suggestion to check the fuel ... it's a good one.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by noelm007 View Post
                don't want to scare you, but I guess you have read about the corrosion issue? in some cases, it can melt the wiring harness and that gives the map sensor code too.
                I have read about the corrosion issue. I don't have it. (Yet?)

                Is there a way to prevent it? Or is it inevitable?

                Comment


                • #9
                  if you can remove the plug, you can just get an alloy one made, I do believe there is some after market ones available too, if you replace it, the problem will not happen, neglect it, and you are going to suffer, sooner or later, it is a simple fix, easily done at home , as long as the old plug comes out.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Check out this plug.

                    Suzuki Outboard DF140 Engine Exhaust Port Replacement Drain Plug Inspection DF | eBay

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                    • #11
                      How old is your fuel? Run it on a spare tank with clean fuel

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by catacom225 View Post
                        How old is your fuel? Run it on a spare tank with clean fuel
                        Thanks for this suggestion. I will first check the fuel coming from the LP line from the bulb. The fuel is only a couple months old and from a very reputable non-ethanol marina. However, my float switch failed and water may have found it's way in. That's what I'm betting on.

                        Got a quote just in case from a service center to come and remedy the water in the fuel situation for $600. Seems a lot, no?

                        Many thanks!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Ok. So ... I bought a new water separator and low pressure fuel filter in preparation of and assuming that I had water in my fuel.

                          Disconnected the input to the low pressure fuel pump in order to squeeze a bit of fuel into a glass using the primer bulb as a first check for water in the fuel as suggested.

                          Well ... when I squeezed the primer bulb it hissed an spit a bit of gas into my hand. IT HAD A CRACK IN IT AT EACH END! LOVIN' THAT!

                          Quick trip to the parts dealer, new bulb, installed the filters I bought, and VOILA! Started right up and MAP 3-2 code cleared away. Purrin' like a kitten.

                          Sometimes you get a break, sometimes you don't. I got one this time.

                          Also grateful for the knowledge this episode brought re: the corrosion and the plug. I would never have known until apparently it was much worse a' situation.

                          I ordered the aluminum plug suggested and hope mine's in good shape enough to replace the culprit steel plug. Anyone use this plug? How did it go?

                          Well the interesting conclusion is that .. the code 3-2 likely accurately indicated a pressure anomaly, but, not due to the sensor nor the passage, just a hiccup likely as the engine gasped at the last bit of fuel that was being replaced by air at the bulb. So the MAP 3 2 code can appear for other reasons.

                          If someone has used the plug suggested please reply. Thanks and hope this helps someone else in the future. (I was "this close" to spending minimum $200+ for a dockside visit!)

                          Best.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            MAP sensor beep 3-2

                            i am having the same problem to, beep is on 3-2 and engine cuts off at idle speed so thought was the IAC valve, so changed it and the beep went off but after running the motor for 3hours same beep comes up again.

                            please advice me on this.thank you

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I have replaced the steel exhaust plug with the aluminum one. The only problem was getting the steel plug out of the engine. I had to drill it out,leaving the threads. If you have trouble getting it out and are not comfortable with drilling it out, someone who works on outboards a lot will have the skills to do it for you for modest cost.

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