1997 dt 100

[hillbilly]

I really need help with my 97/98 dt 100. Basically I feel like I and other mechanics have ruled out all fuel system. Will run on muffs, put it in river and it dies out as throttled up. I believe I am all over problem but cant figure it out. I am not getting the corre t voltages from stator assembly on any of the coils, have slighty adjusted air gap still not right voltages and I feel like this is why it will not run under a load. Can anyone help?

[Solarman]

dt100, 97, running issues

Ok, first tell what you did with fuel system, to rule it out, then tell me what air gap you adjusted. And what voltages from coils are you talking about?
Then, can you tell me if your motor has carbs, or is it fuel injected?

[hillbilly]

1997 dt 100

It has carbs, oil injection but not fuel. I replaced all fuel lines under hood at carbs. Replaced seperator, took carbs off and cleaned good. Also tried portable tank off another boat. Also brought it to boat mechanic and he went through carbs and confirmed they were clean and good to go. I have replaced t.p.s on bottom carb (even though it ohmed out ok) I have replaced cdi with another (used) I have replaced stator assembly with another (used) all sensors and coils ohm ok yet when I check the 2 pulser coils coming from stator assembly I only have like 1.52volts ( book says it is suppose to to be around 3 I think). Also the condensor charging coil from stator is only giving me about 52 volts (book says that is suppose to be 85 or 92?) Im sue im leaving something out but this has been an ordeal. And it has been strung out over time, since I dont have all the time in the world to try and get it right. Thanks for whatever help you can give.

[hillbilly]

1997 dt 100

Oh and I adjusted the air gap for the pulser coils. After changing the whole assembly I got same voltages, so I che ked gap and they were about .020, book said .032 I believe so I changed to that. No difference. I also slighty moved condensor charging coil closer to inside of flywheel, no difference. Probably shouldnt have moved that one since I dont know how to even check or set that one under flywheel correctly, the book is vague on that. Thanks again.

[Solarman]

dt100, 97, running issues

Ok, you are checking for volts. Do a continuity test of your pulse coils? Each one has 2 wires, post those 2 readings (If '97, your motor has 2 pulse coils). When you finish those readings also take the ohm reading on the gear counting coil (this should change as teeth pass by and has to be proper distance/ enough to give clear reading for timing) and post them all here. The motor does not need to be running to take the ohm readings. Also, have you checked/ repaired/ rebuilt/ replaced your fuel pump? If it is missing the clear plastic discs (check valves) in the bottom section they're are not made, fuel pump would have to be replaced. Check/inspect fuel pump if not done.
Let us know all those readings.

[hillbilly]

1997 dt 100

I have checked continuity on both pulser coils and counting coil, but cant remember numbers, however I will do again when I get the chance, they were in spec. And I did rebuild fuel pump with kit and I remember check valves were there, but I will reinspect that also to be sure of condition. Thanks.

[hillbilly]

1997 dt 100

Pulser coil #1. 224.4 ohms
Pulser coil #2. 221.5 ohms
Counting. Coil. 206-219 ohms after setting gap to .5 mm but it fluctuates the faster I turn the flywheel, glanced around 196-240 ohms turning faster?
And the clear check valves are ther and seem to be intact.

[Solarman]

dt100, running issues

Yes, the gear counting coil changes some when faster, but it has to detect each tooth on the flywheel for the computer. as long as the readings are same, and it changes same up/down for each tooth, and each space, should be good.
The same with the tps. Take an ohm reading with motor off and throttle at lowest. With ohm meter still connected, disconnect throttle, so you can turn throttle by hand. Watch the meter and slowly increase throttle to full open position. The meter should change smoothly as you open the throttle to full open position. Any gaps/ blanks, or erratic changes/ bouncing up & down readings, would indicate a bad tps.
If you find tps works well, then check spark plug wires and boots for possible cracks in insulation. If plugs fire at idle ok, and wires are bad, they might start shorting to heads as you increase throttle.
And if everything mentioned in these threads tested out good. Then look in your manual on testing your Computer/ ECU. It should tell you how to check the output.
Good luck.