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spun crank on a 1997 DT85/ out of time

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  • spun crank on a 1997 DT85/ out of time

    I have a 97 dt 85 that's out of time. Repair shop says that it has a spun crank and it is not worth fixing. Any one else have anything like this or are they full of BS and wanting to sell a new motor? Motor ran fine then just would not start. Thanks for any and all help.

  • #2
    never heard of it, but I guess anything is possible (somehow) are you sure he is not referring to the key in the flywheel?

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    • #3
      dt85, spun crank?

      Haven't heard of such a thing either. Have had flywheel magnets come apart and eat a stator/ magneto.
      If your flywheel turns, and the pistons don't move, I'd check the crank key on the shaft under the flywheel first. If all those are good, and pistons are moving, my next step would be electrical tests. If motor just quit running, I would do an ohm meter check on the gear counting coil, magneto coils, and pulse coils, before removing them, in that order. If those items check good, I would check the CDI unit.
      I may have misunderstood?
      Are you saying your motor runs, but is misfiring, timing is not right?
      Post the readings, or any other results you find for us.
      Good luck
      Last edited by Solarman; 10-21-2014, 12:21 AM.

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      • #4
        It has good spark and turns over great and has 125 psi compression on all cylinders. All looks like it should run but it wont. It ran fine stopped for a while then started die and that is where I'm at now...

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        • #5
          dt85, running issues

          Ok, it has fire on all plugs, then I would check the gear counting coil first. Do an ohm reading on it. Also, check the distance from the flywheel on it, it has to be close enough to read each tooth to give the ECU the speed of the crankshaft.
          Does your monitor flash any signals/ codes (two sets of flashes?)?

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          • #6
            dt85, not running

            Sorry. Need to stick to basics first. This is a 97 year model.
            Does it have carbs? Parts page says carbs.
            are you getting fuel to the carbs? Could you squirt gas, or carb cleaner into the three carbs and get it to start?
            Let us know if you can.
            Last edited by Solarman; 10-21-2014, 12:51 AM.

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            • #7
              I have tried the spraying fuel and ether in and no fire.
              I would like to pick up a repair manual that is in print could you point me that way. I'm not a mechanic but it seems to me that the fix should not be crazy hard. Thanks for all the help.

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              • #8
                Do NOT spray starting fluid/ether in the carbs to try to start it, if you must, try spraying anything, use premixed outboard fuel (containing oil) or a possible crank issue will be the least of your worries....at a guess ( and it is a guess) if the crank was "spun" then the timing would be way out, and it would be back firing every time you tried to start it. You will need to do some very basic trouble shooting first.

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                • #9
                  dt85, 97, not running

                  As far as a manual, google the Suzuki shop/ repair manual you need. If from a Suzuki dealer near you, call and verify it's the right one.
                  These tests I'm suggesting are simple ohm meter tests, but they can tell us if something is not working. If you have spark on ALL cylinders, I would do an ohm meter check on the gear counting coil, and the TPS/ TVS (throttle position sensor) before removing them, in that order. If NOT getting fire on all cylinders, then that would point at additional things to check. Let us know when ready to test, and if any questions.
                  And you can post the ohm readings here for help.

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                  • #10
                    Got a manual on the way. Thanks for all the help. I will be back to report.

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                    • #11
                      dt85, not running

                      If good compression, and spark at all cylinders, and motor didn't fire up with either/fuel in carbs, then check gear counting coil, and TPS as I mentioned earlier.
                      Let us know when you get the book and do the tests.

                      Will wait to hear how it's going.

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                      • #12
                        Ok here is what I found. Keep in mind that I'M NOT A MECHANIC. LOL
                        Gear counting coil- wire color orange with green stripe had a reading of .975
                        black with green stripe had the same .975.

                        Now for the fuel position sensor was a little different it bounced around some but mostly 1.158 then when I moved the throttle to w/o it would climb to 2.100 the drop back to the 1.1 reading.

                        Whatcha think ? Bad tvs

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                        • #13
                          Gear counting coil is a simple ohm test, just connect the two leads to the two coil wires, turn the flywheel by hand till several teeth pass the coil. consistent readings on each tooth and space are good. Erratic readings/ not consistent - replace.

                          The TPS/TVS should be steady reading at lowest throttle, and smoothly change to highest throttle. If it is erratic anywhere from lowest to highest throttle position - replace.

                          You should check your readings several times on each. If it happened once, it will happen again.
                          Let us know how it's going.

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                          • #14
                            Reading on both seem to jump around alot.
                            The gear counting coil comes back to the .975 ohms every time tho. Not sure if that good or bad. I would think that as it moves from tooth to space in would it would change some. Correct?
                            As for the TPS it bounces all over. Its steady till I move the throttle then it moves up from a 1.1 to a 2.1 then drops off. I feel this is bad and it should climb up and stop at a higher reading and be steady. Is that correct?

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                            • #15
                              wait for the manual and test according to the specs in the manual, measuring anything is useless unless you know what the measurement should be (if you get what I mean)

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