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98 dt200 issue help needed!!

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  • 98 dt200 issue help needed!!

    Alright so I have twin 98 dt200 on my boat. And 1 of the motors started acting up. Won't go full throttle. If u put the other motor in neutral and try running just it it only goes around 2 grand and just stays there. Doesn't back fired or bog. And with both motors it will run around 4300 rpms. I replaced the flywheel as I found the magnets broke apart. And then tested the stator and found it was shorting and sending current to the block, and not charging. So I replaced the stator too. It is charging now. But still running the same....

    I tried testing the coils last night with an ohm reading. And got all different numbers. Top 2 were 14 and change, next 3 I believe we're 13 and change and the last 1 was 11.91. That was running threw the cap and 1 wire.

    Wire to wire test they all ran around .2-.3 except 1 and it didn't seem to show anything.

    So my question is are all the coils bad? Is something else bad maybe? My buddy thinks it's a fuel issue.... ANY EXPERIENCED help is greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    The motor did seem to buck a little.

    Comment


    • #3
      dt200's, 1998, one motor ruining issues

      Davis, when you replaced flywheel & stator on this motor that is giving you problems, did you replace the pulse coils (timing coils), and the gear counting coil too? When put back together did you set the gear counting coil, correct distance from flywheel (it has to read each tooth)?
      You may have to test all those coils, and make sure each is proper distance to flywheel (if adjustable).

      Also, did you replace parts with new, or used?

      Post back, and let us know when able.

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      • #4
        I did not replace those coils. Could they be causing the described issues? And is there a way to test them? The motor had these issues before I pulled the flywheel.
        Last edited by davis07250; 02-25-2015, 12:42 PM.

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        • #5
          dt200, 98, running issues

          There is a way to check the coils. Do you have a manual? If magnets came loose and damaged the stator, it is possible something happened to one or more of the pulse (timing) coils. If you removed the flywheel, the gear counting coil might not have been damaged (also can test), but may not be adjusted near enough/ properly to flywheel (it gives ecm position and speed of crankshaft, needed for timing), also discussed in manual.

          You need the manual for your motor for these tests and adjustments. Once these checks are done, we can proceed. These items are directly related to the work you did. These coils provide the signals for your plug coils.
          You have not mentioned if your motors have carbs, or the efi system, we need to know? Also anything on the fuel system you have done so far.

          Post us back, when you are able, and give us an update.
          Last edited by Solarman; 02-25-2015, 07:17 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Solarman View Post
            There is a way to check the coils. Do you have a manual? If magnets came loose and damaged the stator, it is possible something happened to one or more of the pulse (timing) coils. If you removed the flywheel, the gear counting coil might not have been damaged (also can test), but may not be adjusted near enough/ properly to flywheel (it gives ecm position and speed of crankshaft, needed for timing), also discussed in manual.

            You need the manual for your motor for these tests and adjustments. Once these checks are done, we can proceed. These items are directly related to the work you did. These coils provide the signals for your plug coils.
            You have not mentioned if your motors have carbs, or the efi system, we need to know? Also anything on the fuel system you have done so far.

            Post us back, when you are able, and give us an update.
            heh sorry been busy at work, where can I get a manual from? And the motors are EFI.

            Comment


            • #7
              dt200, 1998, service manual

              This link should take you where they have the original manual for your motors.

              Suzuki Outboard - 99500-87D08-01E - DT150 / DT175 / DT200 / DT225 Service Manual


              You can also google other manuals, but some do not give the details for your motor, or testing information designed for your size motor.
              Good luck, keep is posted.

              Comment


              • #8
                Well I've found a download able service manual. Seems pretty good. But I've got some questions. It says the timing should be btdc 24 degrees. But both the good and bad motor aren't lining up at that with the arrow on the gear counting sensor. Is that normal? Also people have said replacing their cdi box fixed their motor, but mine don't have a cdi box? I have looked where it says it's supposed to be(behind the ignition coils). Any thoughts on this? I'm getting overwhelmed trying to figure this problem out.

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                • #9
                  dt200, 1998, efi, running issues

                  Davis, if the manual you downloaded gives you an ohm test for the gear count coil, as well as the proper mounting distance, do those two tests. it should also give a similar ohm test for the timing coil (parts shows only one pulse coil for your motor.), add well add mounting instructions for it.

                  Davis, you have the benefit of having two motors, but must be careful not to damage second motor trying to repair the other.

                  You can compare simple ohm tests between the two motors to see if the gear count coil reads the same, and same for pulse coil. You can do a similar test for the tps, but do not loosen the screws on tps (just do simple ohms tests- unplugged).

                  Likewise, can compare the spark plug coils, ohms tests, without removing as well.

                  What you're looking for is some significant difference in ohm readings, that just doesn't match the good motor.

                  Post back when able with what you find. It would benefit you considerably to have one good true service manual, for your specific motors. That cost ($65-$75) would pay for itself many times, in the remaining life of your motors, and give you much more detailed info on your motors. Including all these test for different sensors, and coils.

                  Good luck, post us any info when able. You are our eyes ears and hands on these repairs, so help us help you.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    dt200, 1998, efi, running issues.

                    Davis, it is good to read other posts, but every motor is not identical, in years, or sizes. Yes, someone might have repaired their motor by changing a cdi, but parts list doesn't show your motor having one. Your motor is different from his. The symptoms for his motor may be similar to yours, but his fix won't repair your motor.

                    So if you wish to get help here at the forum, you need to focus on your motor and your problems. Even many Suzuki dealer repair centers don't work on these older motors. Many just tell you the motor is too old, and try to sell new motors.

                    Good luck. Let us know what you can, keep us posted.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Alright I've ohm tested the sensor and they are pretty much the same in both motors. Checked timing and it is correct as well. So I'm thinking it is the high pressure fuel pump or clogged fuel line. Does anybody know what psi the high pressure pump should be putting out???....also now my other motor is popping out of gear when throttled under load. Had the prop checked it's good. Any other thoughts on that as well??? Trying to get both of these up and going.

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                      • #12
                        dt200, 98, efi, fuel pressure, & shift problem

                        The fuel pressure regulator, high pressure fuel pump should maintain a pressure of approximately 36.3psi with key switch in on position. After connecting gauge, you may need to turn key on several times for 2 seconds until air is bled out of system.

                        On your other motor, if problem began after previous r/r of lower unit for new impeller,or other service, then is shift rod fully engaging into forward gear? If not, it might kick out from extra load of one motor not pulling its load. If fully engaging, then could have worn gear or shift dog in gearcase.

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