Buy Suzuki Outboard Parts

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

2004 df140 more alarms

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 2004 df140 more alarms

    So this is getting crazy

    I have twin 2004 df140 motors. About 450 hours on each. Just did a service 40 hrs ago.

    I have two alarms
    1 oil light blinks non stop with 2 beeps every ten seconds. No performance issues. I tried re-setting the service alarm with no luck. Still blinks

    2 The check engine light stays lit and beeps twice every couple of seconds also no performance issues. Same motor

    I don't have an SDS, I am fairly mechanically inclined. first trial run of the season out of options

    My ferrous plug area has not yet been compromised

    I did appear to run down one of the two batteries the night before these symptoms


    Any ideas? Thanks in advance

  • #2
    So just to clarify I rechecked the codes. The check engine light blinks four times then a pause then blinks three times the oil light is still blinking continuously does anyone have a link or a list of what the codes are for these motors?

    Check engine 4-3 code on 2004 DF140

    Comment


    • #3
      Attached is a list of codes.

      Its quite possible that the codes are related to the battery being drained. These engines do not like a poor power supply at all. They can do weird things if the power supply is bad.

      Check the battery connections carefully, remove and clean them all and make sure the white wire is connected properly and is in good condition, charge the battery fully and test again.

      Cheers
      Attached Files
      Last edited by Moonlighter; 04-04-2016, 06:41 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        So I got it out of the water and home. Took cover off and tested all of the injectors by disconnecting each one while running. All of them seem to work. I found the code is maybe for a fuel injector? No change after testing them all.

        Looked around and found the 1 inch rubber hose line that that connects at the very top of the motor (thermostat) and then runs down the side and connects down by the fresh water flush intake was disconnected and blowing hot steam in that area.

        Re-connected it and saw a noticeable change in the idle and starting. But the check engine code will not go away?? Is there some sort of reset other than the typical kill switch for the oil reminder (which worked by the way to reset the oil light)

        Moonlighter,

        If there was an issue because I drained the one battery pretty low, what is the point of the perko switch that cuts power completely to everything by switching off both batteries?

        Still scratching my head...

        Comment


        • #5
          Starting and running the engine with a poorly charged or half flat battery is always going to be a potential source of problems.

          Im not aware of how your boat batteries and switches are arranged as you havent detailed this, but depending on your wiring setup the white wire that provides power to the ECU may possibly still be connected and live even with the switches turned off, or it nay be connected to the poorly charged battery circuit and that would definitely be a likely source of issues. If the motor with issues is connected to the poorly charged battery then .........

          Re clearing the codes, try disconnecting the battery altogether for half an hour then reconnect.

          Comment


          • #6
            thank you. I'm going outside to check right now

            Comment


            • #7
              I disconnected both and put both on the charger. Going to charge overnight and try in the morning.

              I have a 2005 Campion sea explorer. Well made/wired boat. I have the two power/ground wires that come IN from both motors. They go to a pos/neg terminal at the stern. From that positive terminal that both positive motor cables are attached to, there is a larger pos cable that runs to the perko style red control switch that has the typical 1 2 BOTH selector locations on it.

              the 2 battery if used alone is low, struggling to raise and lower both motors. The 1 battery sounds strong. Regardless I disconnected both and am charging both now.

              will advise. thank you

              Comment


              • #8
                Can you see where the white sub-battery (ecu) wire from each motor is connected to 12v + ? They should be connected to the positive side of the main switch so they have power regardless of which battery is turned on.

                Good luck, let us know how you go.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I cannot find this white wire you speak of.

                  I charged the batteries all night. Hooked them up and started problem motor. Had to clear the code (hold the ignition key in for a few seconds while running)

                  Bam! code went off and motor ran great.

                  Let it run for about 20 mins and code triggered again!!!

                  No change in motor performance, just flashing code. Could not get it to reset itself.

                  I hate boats sometimes

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    There are several procedures called for in testing for code 4-3, all involving the injectors and the ECM and the connection between the two. They also require the use of a specific test cord, which could probably be substituted for by back-probing the connectors (possibly risking damage to connector weather/water proofing), but also involving continuity checks, and readings of static voltages and operating voltages (peak voltages to the injectors during duty cycle). Just observing that the injectors seem to be spraying fuel adequately is not a reliable indicator that the voltages or resistances are within the parameters that the ECM expects to see. Under these circumstances, the ECM might throw an alarm, even though you see fuel being injected, or can hear the clicking of the injectors, etc.

                    So the bottom line is that although you can find no faults by using visual or aural indications, eliminating the fault code may likely require you to have it checked by more sophisticated means, which unfortunately also means that you'll have to spend some money.

                    Concerning your white wire, it may well be connected to the positive bus that you mention at the stern. That is an acceptable connection point.
                    Last edited by Harper; 04-05-2016, 01:48 PM.
                    Mike
                    μολὼν λαβέ

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks for all the help. Took it into my suzuki marine guy today as I am out of ideas. Can't wait for this bill!

                      Will advise

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        What was the verdict? mine is doing the same thing. Battery drained overnight and now i cant get rid of this new 4-3 code.
                        Last edited by Sean Graham; 09-15-2021, 08:02 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Tap on Birddog009 and you’ll see he hasn’t been active since 2017, maybe he’ll get an email and reply. Best to start your own post.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X