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grrrrrrrr......dt9.9 wont start

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  • #16
    I am getting into this conversation late in the game, I realize
    Solarman is better at this than I am

    however, he did give you an idea, that I don't see you followed up on --starting fluid..
    did you try to spray some in the air intake?
    that should not take much compression to get it to fire and it should run a few seconds on the starter fluid if it is getting spark

    Art

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    • #17
      Hello again.....thanks for the reminder Art....yes I tried the starter fluid and it did not work.....so I decided to take off then Powerhead and disassemble to see what's going on with pistons and rings. I found significant scoring on both cylinders and pistons (are the Rings suppose to freely rotate in the grooves??). Quite a lot of rust on crankshaft but the three bearings seem to rotate freely. The scariest part is that I found an accumulation of metal shavings at the end of the crankshaft assembly, and I don't really know where they came from. The amount of shavings seem greater than the scoring to the pistons.....im not sure if buying pistons and rings and rehoning cylinders will solve the no start issue. In theory doing that should give me better compression. I plan on also checking the reed switch to see if the height of the tabs meet the spec in the manual.

      I'm also going to clean all the accumulation of gunk on all components to see where the shavings came from. Any ideas?

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      • #18
        sounds like a real mess
        metal shaving are never good
        I would suspect it will take a complete tear down and rebuild
        and you are now way over my head

        if you couldn't get it to at least fire with starter fluid I would think you have an electrical problem

        good luck with this hope you have a lot of patience!

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        • #19
          Haha...thanks. Patience I have in spades, it's money that will become a factor soon though. Not sure if it'll be worth it to replace pistons, rings and crankshaft oil seals, only to have the motor not start again when it's all reassembled. I also discovered that 5 of the 8 bolts holding the exhaust plate cover were broken and weren't doing very much to retain the cover. Now I have 5 rusted in bolts (sans heads!!) that I need to drill out and extract!!

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          • #20
            OK. You can play all you want, but if needle bearings on rods/ wrist pins have any pitting from rust & sitting up, replacing is only option. Anything less than great bearings on crank, rods, and pistons take away from life of motor. If cylinders have to be bored or sleeves replaced, then new rings, possibly pistons will be needed.

            I'm not sure you can buy all the above parts, plus all the seals and gaskets? But, you're close to buying another motor if all are needed?

            Shavings may be off the pistons, rings, and walls. Maybe a few more pieces from bearings on rods?

            Sorry, the motor can be repaired, just not sure if cost effective? Then you're back to dealing with old electrical components too.

            Good luck.

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            • #21
              Thanks for the feedback Solarman. I've checked Browns and can still get all the components I need, and so far my list of needed components is:

              Pistons and rings (x2sets)
              Circlips (x4)
              Needle bearings both ends (x2)
              Crankshaft oil seals (top and lower)
              Crankshaft main oil seal
              Water pump impeller (since I have the motor apart I also took the lower unit off and saw cracks on the impeller)
              Exhaust tube seal
              Exhaust cover plate flange seal (x2)

              Total cost of the above = ~$295 !!!!!
              Plus shipping and handling
              Plus exchange rate since I live in Canada!!!
              (buying from local marine shops is more expensive even with the delivery charge and exchange rates from Browns!!)
              That would bring the total to over $400CAD.....and I'd still have to hone cylinders and machine out the rusted bolts on the exhaust cover and there's no guarantee that it will start even after all that. Sadly, I think it might make sense to put that money into buying another motor for that price.....do you know any good websites that sell good used suzukis?

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              • #22
                The cost of a crankshaft if having to replace rod bearings may be required, haven't found anyone able to remove rods from crank (rods one piece, crank has to be taken apart to replace) for my motor yet. Still looking.

                Yes, better invested in something that runs.

                No good info of where to look, but can Google what you're looking for, may get lucky? Might be wise to look for something guaranteed?

                Good luck.

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                • #23
                  Well, it's definitely been a good learning experience. Thank you very much for all your help Solarman!! I actually have a lead on another similar motor that got dropped and had the tiller handle broken off (??!?) not sure how much other damage it sustained, but the ad claims that the power head is unscathed and has good compression. Maybe between the two I can put together one motor that works.

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                  • #24
                    Sounds good.

                    Good luck, and have fun, then enjoy.

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