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Flushing Suzuki DF140hp

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  • Flushing Suzuki DF140hp

    I did not fully read my manual regarding NOT running the engine while using the flush port on the side of the lower unit. I ran the engine for 3 minutes while flushing...did I screw something up in that short of a time?

  • #2
    Were it me I would pull the lower unit off & replace the impeller. Cheap insurance!

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    • #3
      Yes indeed the flush port does not pass water through the impeller, water pump etc. If you can change the impeller it would be worthwhile.
      Similar topic, also related to flushing the DF140A.......I have only used mine twice but on each occasion, there was no water from the tell tale when starting the engine. Needed to remove the nozzle and clean and blast through with compressed air to clear the nozzle allowing water to flow. Needless to say this is a real PITA. Anybody else having similar issues?

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      • #4
        I found something several years ago with regards to at least my DF175.
        The screened intake port where the earmuffs fit for you water-hose is not the only place to get water to the water pump
        Right in front of this screen are two good sized holes- that also feed water to the water pump.
        to be 100% these holes need to be covered otherwise water will run out before getting to the pump , or air gets sucked into the pump, especially if the volume of water out of the hose is compromised in anyway.
        And be mindful of not revving your engine above 2,000 RPM while on a hose.
        Art

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        • #5
          Originally posted by artdf175 View Post
          I found something several years ago with regards to at least my DF175.
          The screened intake port where the earmuffs fit for you water-hose is not the only place to get water to the water pump
          Right in front of this screen are two good sized holes- that also feed water to the water pump.
          to be 100% these holes need to be covered otherwise water will run out before getting to the pump , or air gets sucked into the pump, especially if the volume of water out of the hose is compromised in anyway.
          And be mindful of not revving your engine above 2,000 RPM while on a hose.
          Art
          Thanks Art

          I've checked and I don't see those holes on my DF140A. I have tried to use a muff once, but even though plenty of cooling water was supplied to the hose, it wasn't effective and I had no water from the water pilot hole. I have had to use the barrel full of water technique to flush in order to get water from the pilot hole.

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          • #6
            Dave how old is your 140? and when was the water pump serviced?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by artdf175 View Post
              Dave how old is your 140? and when was the water pump serviced?
              It's brand new Art. I've only used the boat/engine twice.

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              • #8
                Dave, the best muffs to use are the small round soft cup version. They are usually the cheapest muffs you can buy.

                and....

                put them on from the prop end of the leg. Yes this sounds weird but do it and they seal up so much better and do not tend to slide off.

                Put the muffs on. Turn the hose on as hard as it goes. Wait 30 seconds. Then start the motor.

                It may take up to 30 seconds for water to start coming out the telltale.

                Was shown this by my Suzuki desler, he does this with all hp engines from 2hp to 350 and it works on all of them.

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                • #9
                  Hmm, water never comes out the telltale on my DF150 unless the motor is running. Exercised the motor today and tried waiting before cranking. 10 minutes later, still nothing out the telltale.

                  Started pumping the stream immediately after starting, though, as always.
                  Mike
                  μολὼν λαβέ

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