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2008 df140 issue

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  • 2008 df140 issue

    Test drove a 2008 df140 yesterday. When you put the throttle all the way down, the boat would not get on plane. Turn the engine off, back on and throttle down, it would receive full power and get on plane. Any ideas?

  • #2
    I don't really understand what you're saying. Test driving 08 DF140 and it would not get on plane at WOT (wide open throttle). Shut it down and repeating, WOT would then plane the boat. I had a brand new boat and my DF140 had a hard time planing also. It was the pitch on the prop. I had a 3 blade, 14" with a 24 twist. I repitched it to 20 and afterward it jumped out of the water. There is a lot of technical stuff to get correct pitch. I would look at one of the topics on "selecting correct prop" that is one of the opening threads. If your prop had too high pitch number as I described that might be the issue.

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    • #3
      brisco, thank you for your response. I was in a hurry yesterday when posting my original post so I wasn't very clear. I'll try explaining it better. I test drove a 2008 Blazer Bay with a DF 140 4 stroke on it. The engine started fine and would idle/cruise along just fine. When you would give it WOT, it would not get on plane. Almost like it wasn't receiving enough RPM's. You could stop the boat, turn off the ignition, start it back up and give it WOT and it would get on plane with all its power. It was like turning it off was possibly resetting something. The problem was intermittent as well, meaning it didn't happen every time you give it WOT. I don't know a whole lot about outboard motors so I was just seeing if anyone had any suggestions on what the problem might be. Thanks for any responses.

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      • #4
        Had a similar problem many years ago.

        But it only happened on boats with 90-140 series engines where the motor was networked via NMEA2000 to a digital gauge or MFD. We now know the solution if that is the issue.

        So ...

        Do you know if this engine is networked - ie running SMIS digital gauges, or with engine data on a GPS/sonar screen?

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        • #5
          Also, more info would help - the important bit being - if the engine is started and accelerates strongly onto the plane, and then slow down to idle, and then accelerated again, does it ever repeat the sluggish performance? Or, does it only happen after the engine is stopped then restarted?

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          • #6
            SMIS Digital gauges

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            • #7
              I'm not sure on your second question. Never even thought about testing it that way. Sorry for my lack of information. New at this used boat purchasing. Would this be an issue that would detour you away from buying the boat? The shops around here are 5 weeks out on being able to check anything out.

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              • #8
                Look there are quite a few possibilities at play here. Its hard to say from this side of the computer.

                If it is the network issue that I eluded to, its an easy do it yourself fix to change some wiring. But it would only be likely to be that issue if the SMIS gauges were a recent install. Because the owner would have been experiencing the issue for many years otherwise. So ask when the problem started.

                It could also be the neutral throttle switch, especially of the owner says its not been doing it previously. The NTS tells the engine if its in gear, but if its failing or cracked, then just like you found, on occasions, when you put the engine in gear, the switch doesnt work so the ecu still thinks the engine is in neutral and wont allow it to rev past 3000 rpm. That could well be the issue - so when you stop, put the engine in neutral and turn off, the switch re engages and works again. Its not all that uncommon, and the switch (on the gear linkages on the starboard side) is not expensive, about $60 and is easy to replace.

                Or it could be fuel pressure. Or something else.

                I would have the engine inspected by a trained and experienced Suzuki mechanic. They should hook it up to the SDS system and check for codes, and they might be able to put it in and out of gear a few times and see on the laptop if that NTS is working. A visual inspection may also show it as the problem.

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                • #9
                  Thank you very much for your insight Moonlighter. It is much appreciated!! I'll update what i find out here in the future.

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                  • #10
                    While your looking at the boat there was an exhaust plug corrosion issue, Suzuki fixed the issue I THINK in 2008. Don’t know many details but if you Google the issue you should get an idea where to look on the engine.

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                    • #11
                      FFJP33, I have the same boat and engine. I assume you have a BB 2020. The rpms just can't get up fast enough with the wrong prop.
                      It sounds like you are saying that when you were idling along and then tried WOT to go on plane, it wouldn't. But, from dead stop to WOT it would go to plane. Is it still a struggle to get to plane, even from dead stop?
                      Check the prop. You need a 3 blade, 14" diameter, 20 pitch. My boat mimicked yours when I first bought it. However, when I went from idling to WOT it would finally break over and get up on plane. I had a 24 pitch and it could barely get up with 2 passengers. I had to get passenger to sit in front of console. Also, your max rpms were probably 5500-5600 with that prop. With correct pitch it should be right around 6200 (which is max).
                      I have several thousand hours on my 07, DF140 and it still feels strong and starts like a gem. Really love my 140.
                      Also, I think Murray is talking about the steel plug issue that plagued the engine holder on the port side of engine.
                      Good luck, buddy.
                      ​​

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