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Df90a 2015

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  • Df90a 2015

    I recently bought a boat with a DF90A on it. At the time of purchase the starter motor would engage and merely clickover the flywheel in a repeated click scenario. I brought it to an autorized suzuki dealer, (under warranty), and the repair shop not only did not call me, but replaced and then did not disclose a reason for replacing the starter which cost a sum of $1400, which brings me to now where the starting motor does the same thing. The very first time I had it out, it worked on every key turn and on an older battery from 2018 which does still take a charge (I have a noco 12000 which has been good). and a separate volt meter to check these things. sometimes it starts, sometimes not, sometimes it starts with a charge on it (jumper), sometimes not. It killed two family outtings at the ramp, and almost some others. I have zero confidence in the system right now and it is a crap shoot.

    Here are my actual questions:

    How should I test voltage drop? between a "good" battery and the starting system?
    Assuming my new starter is good and factory direct, should I rewire the whole thing?

    Here is my intended "fix":
    1. I bought a new console, everything underneath is getting rewired
    2. Because of that, and I am unsure of the main power and main ground wire's age I'm going to replace them.

    If after all of that IF my issue persists what in your expertise would be the issue. relay?

    Thank you, -M
    Last edited by Matt LeJeune; 10-14-2020, 04:15 PM.

  • #2
    You can check the voltage drop by checking the voltage at several different locations when switch is in off position and cranking position.

    In OFF position, steps #1 and #2, a fully charged battery should read ->12.2 v.

    In CRANKING position the voltage at each location may progressive drop at each position (starting from battery) dependent on connection and cable conditions, MINIMUM voltage at any location should be lower than 9.5v.

    You will need to place the -NEG voltmeter lead on the GROUND located in the engine cowling.

    1. Voltmeter + POSITIVE connected on battery Positive at BATTERY BOX
    2. Voltmeter + POSITIVE connected on battery side of starting solenoid
    3, Voltmeter + POSITIVE connected on starter side of starting solenoid
    4, Voltmeter + POSITIVE connected on terminal on starter


    Hope this helps.

    Jim




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    • #3
      And, suggest you have a read of the “white wire” sticky thread in the top section of this forum.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thank you I will check that run, I found the wiring diagram for the white wire in the service manual which covers the df70A,df80A,&df90A for my model year. Appreciate the help

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by jHydroman View Post
          You can check the voltage drop by checking the voltage at several different locations when switch is in off position and cranking position.

          In OFF position, steps #1 and #2, a fully charged battery should read ->12.2 v.

          In CRANKING position the voltage at each location may progressive drop at each position (starting from battery) dependent on connection and cable conditions, MINIMUM voltage at any location should be lower than 9.5v.

          You will need to place the -NEG voltmeter lead on the GROUND located in the engine cowling.

          1. Voltmeter + POSITIVE connected on battery Positive at BATTERY BOX
          2. Voltmeter + POSITIVE connected on battery side of starting solenoid
          3, Voltmeter + POSITIVE connected on starter side of starting solenoid
          4, Voltmeter + POSITIVE connected on terminal on starter


          Hope this helps.

          Jim



          I think Jim meant to say that the voltage should NOT drop below 9,5 volts when cranking,, and a fully charged battery should read around 12.7 volts, actually with good batteries and good power and grounds the battery voltage would not drop below 10.5 volts with these toy engines.

          If you had a cranking voltage of 9.5 volts on any of the engines that use the Mitsubishi stepper motor you would get flare up on a cold start high rpm and a stall.

          Comment


          • #6
            I read that as well as "to Not drop below 9.5v" I have a brand new "Interstate" brand battery that I'm not impressed with which has hovered around 12.3-12.4 fully charged which meets and exceeds the recommendations for my motor as the starting battery. The original battery that it came with when I bought it which was marked as a 2018 purchase has been good, fully charged has been 12.6-12.8. It has a lower rating than recommended in regards to capacity.

            My issue right now is still that the starter (starter assembly was fully replaced) pin engages and moves up to crank the fly wheel and ends up doing a click, click, click. something isn't right. I contacted the person I purchased the boat from yesterday and he wasn't the repower decision maker. The original starter did the same thing, which means to me the probability that my starter replacement was a fully waste of $, and any main power re-wiring never happened, and even if it did I see no shrink wrapping and no water protection on any wires. which is either a problem from 2014ish to 2005 when the hull was built. In either case, all of these wires I assume are toast. There is a severe lack of detail here in the northeast, the suzuki authorized shop I brought it to should not be "authorized" for any boat work, but thats a different story.

            I will report back on my tests, and report back on the white wire. Saturday looks like a blowout up here in New England so I'll check it out then.

            Comment


            • #7
              it is a toy engine! a nice one at that! it should start no problem, but here I am unfortunately complaining about it.

              Comment


              • #8
                I doubt that your starter was faulty, the noise you can hear is the solenoid plunger moving forward and engaging the ring gear, and when it hits the contacts in the end cap and supplies the main voltage to the motor side, the voltage drops and the plunger retracts, the voltage increases and the plunger moves forward again, this will keep repeating that is why you hear click, click, click, and so on.

                It is just voltage drop, either on the main ground or battery, or supply, easy to check, if you know how to use a multimeter and test light I can help you find where your problem is. If you had a problem with ignition supply ( white wire ) I don't think the solenoid plunger would move forward enough to engage the main contacts in the end cap, from having too lower voltage from the starter relay. But that is easy to check.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by redlowrey View Post
                  I think Jim meant to say that the voltage should NOT drop below 9,5 volts when cranking,, and a fully charged battery should read around 12.7 volts, actually with good batteries and good power and grounds the battery voltage would not drop below 10.5 volts with these toy engines.

                  If you had a cranking voltage of 9.5 volts on any of the engines that use the Mitsubishi stepper motor you would get flare up on a cold start high rpm and a stall.
                  Sorry guys left out the word NO, should read NO lower than 9.5 volts.

                  Comment

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