2005 DF90 Won't Crank

[NickGarrott]

I'm trying to help a friend with his motor that won't crank.

2005 Suzuki DF90 1400 hours

Starter motor doesn't turn at all without jumping it.
Batteries are tested good, both main and subfuse are good. Starter relay does not click, their is a 2nd relay next to the starter relay, same denso part numbers and when switched their is no difference. Trim and tilt does not work at the remote control box. Ignition switch continuity checks out good, Neutral safety switch in remote control box tested good. Neutral safety switch on the block did not test good, but I jumped it with a short section of wire and it still will not crank.

Backstory for those interested-
Motor was stalling while running, it was cutting out suddenly like the key was switched off. I found a burned and melted connector going from the main wire harness to the port side block. Their are 3 connectors and 2 were removed and replaced with a 10 gauge wire butt connected due to corrosion. Boat ran well afterwards, but then failed to start on the water and required a tow. The 15 amp white wire fuse was blown at the end of the last day of troubleshooting. I don't believe it was blown at the beginning of the trouble because the tach was spinning "backwards" to the 5 o'clock position when I started troubleshooting it. When I replaced the fuse the tach started working again and you could hear the fuel pump kicking it. Still no relay click and no crank.

[artdf175]

http://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/s...ey-switch.html

There is some clairification toward the bottom of the above post about wiring power to the ECM
Suggest starting at my 'sticky' (#2 thread) re white wire and then the thread above

You have some bad wiring and it is a matter of just finding the bad link
Look for swollen wires (internal corrosion) any splice joints can be a problem area ---especially where someone has not used water proof butt end connectors
Art

[NickGarrott]

Wire break

Thanks, I'm guessing since the tach has power the break is not between the battery and ecu. I'll replace that 3rd connector on the port side and see if we don't get anywhere. Any advice on bench testing the relay? It's pins are not in the same location as the manual shows and I didn't want to mess something up.

[NickGarrott]

Thanks Art, I tried replying once before but it's not showing up. I'm going to assume the white wire doesn't have any issues since the tach is getting power. I just realized I didn't check the block neutral safety switch correctly, so it is probably not the problem, but I will confirm it. I'm left with a problem between the ecm giving power to the relay, or the relay. The relay is not shaped like the one in the service manual I found online, but I will attempt to bench test it.

[NickGarrott]

I just saw the message about needing to be mod approved. You're welcome to delete the first one if you want. The 2nd message is more thought out.

[Harper]

Fixed it for ya!

[NickGarrott]

Update. The starter relay is not receiving a signal to turn on. I'm not sure if the problem is between the key switch and ecm, or ecm and relay. I don't know what the next step is.

[redlowrey]

Update. The starter relay is not receiving a signal to turn on. I'm not sure if the problem is between the key switch and ecm, or ecm and relay. I don't know what the next step is.

'''''''''Go back to the ignition key and make sure you have battery voltage on your supply white wire, turn the key on you should have battery voltage on a grey wire, turn the key to the start position and you should now have battery voltage on a brown wire. If you have, battery voltage will flow down that wire through the first neutral switch in the console to a junction splice to the ecu and straight a head to the neutral switch on the motor. Get someone to hold the key in the start position get your test light and you should have battery voltage on the brown wire on one side of the switch and battery voltage on the yellow and green wire on the other side of the switch. If you have battery voltage on both sides go to you starter relay, if you don't work back towards the ignition key. Remember this, in a normal situation when you turn the key to the start position battery voltage will flow through a brown wire through both neutral switches to the starter relay coil to ground in the ecu, this in turn will close the main relay contacts and send battery voltage to the starter. Relay white wire supply from the thirty amp fuse, dark green ground, red to starter, yellow and green from neutral switch.

[NickGarrott]

Thank you Red. I have battery voltage on the white wire at the relay and ground on the red wire at the relay. Both green and green/yellow wires show .7 V when key is held in start position. I'll follow the path you gave me tomorrow.

[redlowrey]

Red is not the ground, dark green goes to ground inside the ecu, early engines on the block, red will go to the starter when the main contacts are energized. The white wire at the relay has battery voltage coming from the thirty amp fuse, go back to the neutral switch on the engine and make sure you have battery voltage there, forget about the relay until you have battery voltage both sides of the neutral switch with the key in the start position If you cant get your test light to light at the neutral switch go back to the key and start there like I said. The red wire goes to the starter solenoid pull in windings and armature brushes to ground. Actually disconnect the starter relay until you can get the test light to light nice and bright at the neutral switch both sides with the key in the start position. You say you have no trim at the console you should see a splice in the plug where there is a white wire and white and red wire that supplies your trim with battery voltage check that with a test light as I said first up, make sure you have good battery voltage on the white supply wire that goes to your ignition switch which also feeds the trim.

[NickGarrott]

I only got a couple minutes to mess with it today. I did confirm battery voltage on the brown wire when the key is turned to start. I didn't bring any tools today besides my meter since it was pouring down rain. I will remove the neutral safety switch connector on the block, and confirm voltage is coming in, and going out through it on Monday. Thank you again for the help.

[NickGarrott]

Fixed

I followed the advice given and traced voltage. The block neutral safety switch had the brown wire pulling out the back of the weathertek connector. Once that was fixed I had voltage to the relay and she started. Thank you everyone for your advice.