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2007 DF140 Problems

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  • 2007 DF140 Problems

    This is a new to me boat and motor with 420 hours on it. It started flashing a 3-2 error code (MAP Sensor) with a continuous beep. It was also dying when shifting to forward or reverse. I removed and cleaned the IAC valve and that didn't help. I took it to a Suzuki mechanic that was recommended by a friend. They replaced the MAP sensor, told me it was fixed and not 50' from the ramp it started flashing the error code again. It also died shifting from forward to neutral. I took it back to the shop today to let them try again. I didn't think it was the sensor, from reading threads here, i thought the mechanic would do a little more investigation.

    Any ideas?

  • #2
    Any diagnosis will have to include checking the 5 volt reference signal, and wiring for shorts or open circuits. Could be a bad ground as well.
    Mike
    μολὼν λαβέ

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    • #3
      Originally posted by shallowaterhunter View Post
      This is a new to me boat and motor with 420 hours on it. It started flashing a 3-2 error code (MAP Sensor) with a continuous beep. It was also dying when shifting to forward or reverse. I removed and cleaned the IAC valve and that didn't help. I took it to a Suzuki mechanic that was recommended by a friend. They replaced the MAP sensor, told me it was fixed and not 50' from the ramp it started flashing the error code again. It also died shifting from forward to neutral. I took it back to the shop today to let them try again. I didn't think it was the sensor, from reading threads here, i thought the mechanic would do a little more investigation.

      Any ideas?
      '''''''As I have said a million times on this forum, any engine that use a map sensor for it's main input for fuel injection, any electrical problem or mechanical problem that effects manifold vacuum will effect map sensor signal voltage, so before blaming the sensor you must do voltage drop tests on power signal ground wires before condemning it. 5 volts supply, signal between 1 and 4 ground 0. Also make sure the little hole in the manifold is not blocked.

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      • #4
        Try checking the valve timing.

        I had the same issue with 2006 DF140.

        Engine ran a little rough at idle, hardly noticeable, and would stall when going from full throttle to idle and vice versa. I was getting the same 3-2 map sensor code.

        Compression check gave the following results: Cyl. # 1 - 160, Cyl. # 2 - 150, Cyl. # 3 - 145, Cyl. # 4 - 170.

        Checked the tappet clearances and all exhaust valves except one were out of spec on the tight side. #'s 2 and 3 were way off.

        According to the mechanics I talked to this is due to exhaust valves/seats wearing causing the valve stem to sitting higher in the cylinder head which in turn reduces the clearance between the tappet and the camshaft.

        This is probably why the manual says to check clearance at 20 hours and again at 200 hours.

        I bought the engines used and the clearances were probably never checked

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        • #5
          Normally with tight bucket clearance on the valves, the engine will run rough when cold and good when hot, and when the clearances have diminished enough to keep the valve off it's seat the engine will run rough all the time at idle.

          Map sensor signal voltage will be effected severely, this is why I always suggest to do a compression test cold not hot. If you flog your engine over 5000 rpm good chance they will need to be checked, I sit on 4000rpm done nearly 1400 hours checked them at 1000 hours good clearances still.

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          • #6
            Motor dies out

            I to have the same problem. I have a 2007 140 hp four stroke engine. Check engine flashes and beeps 3/2 or 2/3 flashes. Rough idle and when placed on gear engine will die. Found any solution on the problem?

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            • #7
              Can you supply more information like how many hours, has the engine been running alright and the problem happened over night, or has it gradually got worse over time. Did the problem start when the iat code came up, the map sensor code could come on for numerous reasons.

              The iat sensor is housed in the air box just above the throttle body, it is a two wire sensor that measures the temperature of the air for fuel trimming. Depending on the resistance of the sensor, the ecu will see a changing voltage and will adjust pulse with on the injectors.

              This should be a simple fix if you are handy with a voltmeter, probably a broken wire, fix this first and then we will sort out the map sensor.

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              • #8
                Engine dieing

                Engine been sitting for 9 months before that engine was running great. When running engine again it started acting up. Will check sensor connection and test resistance thank you.

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                • #9
                  One problem solved

                  My mechanic did a compression check and leakage test. One cylinder had some leaking, thinking carbon build up on exhaust valve. They were finally told by Suzuki to check the battery and make sure it was a wet cell battery. It wasn't. They replaced the battery with a Interstate cranking battery and that solved the error code issues.

                  I picked up the boat from the shop on Wednesday, put it in the water today and still had dying issues when changing to forward and reverse. AND, the motor would go over 3600 RPM. At the boat ramp, while waiting on my son to back the trailer down, i tried it again and it ran better, got to 5,000 RPM. Only thing i know to do is change the fuel/water separator. i bought a new fuel/water separator to try but haven't got it changed yet.

                  My idle is about 700-750 RPM. It still dies when coming off of plane and putting in neutral to stop. I removed the AIC valve and cleaned it, that didn't seem to fix the problem.

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                  • #10
                    After resetting the tappet clearances to spec I still had low compression. Pulled the head and found carbon buildup on exhaust valves and seats and damage to several valves. Not a cheap fix. I checked the valve clearances on the other engine and most were out of spec but not out nearly as much as the one I had issues with. Hopefully I caught this one in time. Good idea to check the clearances even if you aren't having any issues.

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