DT 140 Won't start

[Solarman]

But before putting the new water pump in, let's inspect the sub- water pickup system, it is below the water pump. No sense having to do all this work, and not fix three original problem.

Post back when able to let us know how it's going. Good luck.

[Solarman]

Once you have the water pump assy removed, the stainless bottom plate too, you should have 4 screws holding the bearing cap down, and 2 nuts on the back side. When you have those removed, only raise the bearing cap high enough to turn it out of the way to access the sub-water tube heat shield, this should lift up after removing the screw at the other end of the tube. The grommet around the tube should be snug and in good condition. If burned and sloppy loose replace.

Oh, that bearing cap is spring loaded and has a oil seal o"ring to keep the lower unit oil clean, and salt water out, so only raise it just enough to turn out of the way.

Good luck. Post back how its going when able to let us know.

[Intrepid]

I heated up the stud, and tried to work it slowly but it snapped off. It is now in a machine shop where I hope it will be drilled out. At least that was what I was told. I was told I will have it back tomorrow. I will let you know more tomorrow. One more thing. The bushing on the wqter pump housing that seals it to the tube forcing water up to the block was missing so there wasn't a seal there. That is on order. The Suzuki dealer here in the keys doesn't stock parts on motors more than 10 years old so I have to wait on every part, even a simple bolt that they charge 6 bucks for! UGH! I ordered the trim tab and bolt: the trim tab came in but the bolt is coming from a different warehouse so it's not here yet. Hopefully tomorrow. I will post with more info tomorrow. Thanks for all yor help.

Pete

[Intrepid]

Lower unit back from the machine shop ready for the bolt which won't come in until next week. The trim tab bolt came in but don't need it yet as still have to get the water pump finished. I attempted to loosen those 4 screws on the bearing cap and they too seemed frozen in place. They are philips head and I am afraid of stripping the heads and having one more problem. I have them soaking with liquid wrench overnight and will report back tomorrow.

Pete

[wilbur1]

On the Phillips heads,use one of those hand impact drivers. The one you hit with a hammer.

[Solarman]

That's correct, use the impact driver with the proper bit, if you don't have it, I'll bet the same machine shop would loosen them for you.

Remember, only move the bearing cap up just enough to turn it. You don't want anything getting into the lower gear case, and you don't want to upset the spacer or gears inside. Plus don't want to contaminate the gear lube.

Post back when able to let us know how it's going.

[Intrepid]

The bolts for the water pump housing are 8x70 front and 8x50 rear. The machine shop didn't drill it deep enough to snug the 8x50 bolt; it won't go deep enough to snug the housing. When I tried to set the front 8x70 bolts one wouldn't thread down to tighten up. It must have snapped off after a few threads as it is shorter than the other. So, in the morning it is back to the machine shop and I will make sure all the bolts are drilled properly and I can set the bolts on the housing before I leave there. Also, I'll see if they have correct stainless bolts there as I know Suzuki can't get any parts for a week.
I'm a little freightened about removing those screws when you say there a spring under there. I'll be 73 in a month and my mechanical experience has been mostly changing oil, changing spark plus and flat tires. This is challenging both mentally and physically I did surprise myself once when I drilled and tapped in a new zerk fitting on a Yamaha. Thanks for all the help There are so many things that can go wrong, but that missing bushing on the water pump housing where the housing seals to the tube up to the block must have been allowing air to be sucked in so that there was not the full flow of water to the head.

[Solarman]

That bushing is important, but that grommet keeps the pressure up after the pump (pressure side of the pump, yes water meant for the head would escape at that point.). If air is getting in it has to be under the water pump on the suction side of the pump.

That spring under the bearing cap is light, just keeps the bearing and spacer in place, but to prevent having to replace the o'ring seal on the bearing cap, only raise it high enough to turn it out of the way, just enough to get off those 2 studs where the nuts are. Once that is done, you can access the sub-water tube grommet and heat shield.

Post back when able to let us know how it's going.

[Intrepid]

That spring under the bearing cap is light, just keeps the bearing and spacer in place, but to prevent having to replace the o'ring seal on the bearing cap, only raise it high enough to turn it out of the way, just enough to get off those 2 studs where the nuts are. Once that is done, you can access the sub-water tube grommet and heat shield.

I'm a little confused here. The bearing cap appears to be held down by the 4 screws only. The 2 studs with the nuts seem to be holding down the exhaust seal cover, seal rubber and seal plate.