DF25 carb rebuild: carb gasket set or "rebuild kit"?

[TxAg66]

2003 DF25 4-stroke triple, S/N 02501F-371225

On my DF25, I'm pretty sure I'm about to do a carb cleaning.

Background info: The motor sat for around 4 years. Since resurrecting it, I've changed fluids, plugs, thermostat, and impeller. Also installed a Tiny Tach to mostly keep track of hours.

I've put around 20 hrs of muff time on it using ethanol-free gas and a heavy dose of Seafoam. It *has* gotten pretty easy to start. With the prop off, it idles around 850-900, and throttles up pretty well. So I took it to the lake. On the water, I had to constantly trigger the choke solenoid just to keep it running. Never was able to advance the throttle. Seafoam will only do so much, I guess.

Could be wrong, but I'm thinking a carb cleaning is my next step.

Which brings me to my question: To do a carb cleaning, will a gasket-only set be sufficient? Or should I invest in a full "carb rebuild" kit? I'm not sure of the exact hours on the motor but I know it's low so I can't see why a full rebuild would be necessary.

2nd question: Is there anything besides a thorough carb cleaning I should look at?

Thoughts & suggestions would sure be appreciated!

[Hoosmatroos]

I often clean carbs and if possible re-use the gaskets. If one is damaged then replace of-course. The best way to clean is ultrasonic. 9 out of 10 it solves the issue. The small passages can't be cleaned with Seafoam.

If you don't have an ultrasonic cleaning device then try soaking it in carb cleaner. With both, disassemble the carbs completely. After the cleaning, use compressed air to dry the carb and the small passages.

[Solarman]

I'd agree with Hoos, except the only parts i remove are float bowl, float & needle valve seat, and jets (recording any mixture screw adjustments, to replace them back as they were. Also any electrical if fixed position, if not fixed position (If removal requires special re-adj tools to put back in proper place), i would raise/situate electrical out of fluid at top, and soak remainder of carb body, to prevent disturbing electrical. After a good soaking, use compressed air to blow all holes, passages, and jets clear of any trash or cleaner.

Try to identify any trash you find when opening carbs, this could help in preventing future problems/ rebuilds. Take pics to help you remember how all hoses, connections, accessories attach to carbs. Clean one carb at a time, so you don't mixup parts between carbs.

Good luck, post back when able to let us know how it's going, and what you find.

[TxAg66]

Thanks, Gents .. Great suggestions. Carb kits should be in later this week. Looking forward to seeing if I can pull this off! Will definitely post back.

[gordonm1]

Solarman's advice is good to follow.

Getting the needle valve out was the hardest for me. I had to choose between removing the float or destroy the float setting and removing the float the proper way is obviously the better way.

I recently did the single carb on my small motor and if i had three to do, I would get the ultrasonic cleaner like the one at Harbor Freight that retails for $80 and find a way to soak the carb in it. I wasted a lot of time and cleaner with failed attempts until I made a diy vibratory cleaner.

You can easily find coupons for Harbor Freight like the general 20 percent off coupon to reduce the cost of that.

[TxAg66]

Good suggestion on the HF ultrasonic cleaner. Was hoping to snag the one my wife uses for jewelry cleaning but .. maybe not.