40hp Suzuki. Year 2010

[rwarren3171]

Water does not come out the spitter at rear of engine. Holding my finger over the spitter hole I can feel the water pump pumping air but no water. I believe mud dobber wasps have gotten in the water intake tube some how but am unable to find where the water intake tube is located or how to gain access to it to remove the dried mud nest. Where can I get a manual or info how to fix this problem Thanks

[tommybe1]

telltale

Om my df50 I have to take the lower cover off to get to the hose that connects to the pee hole, I believe you can push it out thru the cover also, hope that helps

[tommybe1]

telltale

oops, just reread your post, not sure about the intake, might have to drop the lower unit, hopefully someone more knowledgeable then me can respond, gl

[Murray]

Had to Goggle mud dobber wasp, it's an inch long. It can't get into the intake screen, too big. The intake should be protected with 2 screens, one on each side on the lower unit. Access would require removing the lower unit to get at the water intake tube. What if your pee hole is plugged with mud dobber wasp nest? Try weed wacker cord up the pee hole. Check out the "Sticky" at the top re owners manuals, money well spent.

[TxAg66]

Mud daubers CAN get in ..

Mud daubers can indeed get into the water passages. I ran my DF 25 daily for two solid weeks on muffs - after it sat for a couple of years. I put a bucket under the prop exhaust and had chunks of wasps, larvae and nests flushing out almost daily until they finally all flushed out. Looking back, I wish I'd had the foresight to look for other flushing alternatives. Like maybe removing the thermostat and flushing from the top down (motor off, of course). Speaking of stats, you might want to check yours. The junk from the bugs & nests could possibly foul one up.

I didn't have a problem with the stream from the pee hole, though it varied in strength for a while.

As for how the critters got in, no clue. But I'm sure as heck going to seal up everything I can when I know it won't be run for awhile.

[Murray]

Mud daubers can indeed get into the water passages. I ran my DF 25 daily for two solid weeks on muffs - after it sat for a couple of years. I put a bucket under the prop exhaust and had chunks of wasps, larvae and nests flushing out almost daily until they finally all flushed out. Looking back, I wish I'd had the foresight to look for other flushing alternatives. Like maybe removing the thermostat and flushing from the top down (motor off, of course). Speaking of stats, you might want to check yours. The junk from the bugs & nests could possibly foul one up.

I didn't have a problem with the stream from the pee hole, though it varied in strength for a while.

As for how the critters got in, no clue. But I'm sure as heck going to seal up everything I can when I know it won't be run for awhile.

I can see critters entering through the exhaust easily but the intake?

[TxAg66]

I can see critters entering through the exhaust easily but the intake?

You sure make a good point. I guess, in thinking about it, I might have mistakenly concluded the bugs were coming out of the water passages when they were really coming out of the exhaust. But here's a thing that puzzles me: I sometimes notice water bubbling out of where the shift linkage rod enters the lower leg. If water can come OUT of that opening, bugs can get IN, right? (Guess the next question is whether or not water should be coming out at that point, but that might be another thread.)

[Murray]

Water does not come out the spitter at rear of engine. Holding my finger over the spitter hole I can feel the water pump pumping air but no water. I believe mud dobber wasps have gotten in the water intake tube some how but am unable to find where the water intake tube is located or how to gain access to it to remove the dried mud nest. Where can I get a manual or info how to fix this problem Thanks

https://www.manualslib.com

Try this site, they have a DF40 manual but the part number on the bottom right corner of page 1 doesn't match the part numbers in the "Sticky". With your serial number you should be able to research if this manual will work for you.

[Murray]

You sure make a good point. I guess, in thinking about it, I might have mistakenly concluded the bugs were coming out of the water passages when they were really coming out of the exhaust. But here's a thing that puzzles me: I sometimes notice water bubbling out of where the shift linkage rod enters the lower leg. If water can come OUT of that opening, bugs can get IN, right? (Guess the next question is whether or not water should be coming out at that point, but that might be another thread.)

When I pull the boat out of the water I have a lot of water draining out through holes drilled in the lower unit for the purpose of draining water. Part of the winterization procedure is to leave the engine in a vertical position so water drains and doesn't freeze. To my UNDERSTANDING oil seals in the lower unit keep oil in and water out, likewise on the engine side(drive shaft) and shifter shaft. With this logic, the water pump and surrounding area will be flooded with water. The drain holes I'm referring to are large enough to allow wasp to enter but I don't think their nest would cause any grief. Perhaps some of the more knowledgeable members can chine in and confirm/debunk my post.

[rwarren3171]

Is it a problem for just a handy man to drop the lower unit? Is there much of a problem to replacing the water pump? The only experience I have with marine motors is replacing the water pump on a Johnson 20hp a couple times.

[pniksnut]

there all the same. just have to find the shift linkage and all the wright bolts

[Hoosmatroos]

If you have replaced a water pump once, from any motor then you know the principle. As pniksnut says, sometimes it can be hard to disconnect the sift linkage. For some brands you have to disconnect it from within the upper side of the motor, others from behind a rubber fitting in the leg. Don't forget the bolts beneath the trim tab or anode.

[TxAg66]

On the subject of dropping the lower leg: The manual for my DF25 says that, when reassembling, a thin bead of silicone should be applied to the surface that mates to the mid/upper unit.
a) Is that common to other Suzuki models?
b) If so, then why? The only explanation I can think of is that maybe having a good seal relates somehow to pressure within the leg. My manual says that even the bolts securing the lower to upper should be siliconed. Sure would like to understand the reasoning.

[Murray]

On the subject of dropping the lower leg: The manual for my DF25 says that, when reassembling, a thin bead of silicone should be applied to the surface that mates to the mid/upper unit.
a) Is that common to other Suzuki models?
b) If so, then why? The only explanation I can think of is that maybe having a good seal relates somehow to pressure within the leg. My manual says that even the bolts securing the lower to upper should be siliconed. Sure would like to understand the reasoning.

My service manual also wanted silicone on the lower/ middle mating surface yet when I did the water pump there was no silicone from the factory. I did not apply silicone and have had no problems. To my understanding there is only water pressure within the pump and upwards to the engine.
With the bolts, I'm guessing it's to keep water/salt out of the threads. Again I ignored the manual since my lower unit is only in the water while running and in my case I'm running in fresh water.