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All of a sudden my Suzuki 200 HP (2017) started throwing 4 LED alarms that stay on right after turning ignition. I can't get it to crank after the run hour pulse sequence completes and I turn key to try to crank it.
I looked behind center console instrumentation and saw 2 wires loose. Must have been from prior outing on rough seas that may have jungled some instrumentation wiring loose on last use return to my home dock boat lift. Made it just fine to boat lift and had no indications of any problems at that time. I reconnected the two obviously loose wires that opened at their push-in couplers. I was hoping to get a quick fix but no joy.
Anyone know what the logic is for satisfying the motor's self checks so I can get it to crank over and start? Hurricane season here and I want to be able to trailer it - no time to haul out with a tow service and get it worked on (could be weeks to get a mechanic freed up).
I suspect a loose connection somewhere still - but have not broken into the old wiring nest. Would prefer at this point to just "keep it simple" with minimum instrumentation wires actually needed to satisfy the self test logic to get it to crank. Just want to satisfy the basic starting logic signaling to get it cranking again.
Don't know if its related but at the prior outing I was getting intermittent RPM LED warnings occasionally when I idled down to dock at various venues. Suspect a loose/corroded gauge wire behind center console is throwing that warning occasionally. Always goes away when I shift to neutral and reengage forward gear so have not bothered to try to ferret out all the connections in the old wire harness (in an old 2000 20' center console Hydrasport.
Would appreciate some quick tips on how to proceed.
I looked behind center console instrumentation and saw 2 wires loose. Must have been from prior outing on rough seas that may have jungled some instrumentation wiring loose on last use return to my home dock boat lift. Made it just fine to boat lift and had no indications of any problems at that time. I reconnected the two obviously loose wires that opened at their push-in couplers. I was hoping to get a quick fix but no joy.
Anyone know what the logic is for satisfying the motor's self checks so I can get it to crank over and start? Hurricane season here and I want to be able to trailer it - no time to haul out with a tow service and get it worked on (could be weeks to get a mechanic freed up).
I suspect a loose connection somewhere still - but have not broken into the old wiring nest. Would prefer at this point to just "keep it simple" with minimum instrumentation wires actually needed to satisfy the self test logic to get it to crank. Just want to satisfy the basic starting logic signaling to get it cranking again.
Don't know if its related but at the prior outing I was getting intermittent RPM LED warnings occasionally when I idled down to dock at various venues. Suspect a loose/corroded gauge wire behind center console is throwing that warning occasionally. Always goes away when I shift to neutral and reengage forward gear so have not bothered to try to ferret out all the connections in the old wire harness (in an old 2000 20' center console Hydrasport.
Would appreciate some quick tips on how to proceed.
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