DT150 won't go over 2000 rpm's... help please!!

[Solarman]

Generally the sensors are more temp related since around the latter '80s? More so than flow related. The initial signals/beeping may be related to sequential starting-up procedures. The timing of audible beeps turning off when tell-tale flows, I believe is coincidence of timing, how long it takes to initialize sensors/other readings?
Sorry, the monitor guage is what's connected through the system, but more so as indicator lights just for information as to what's going on. The tach just reads the rpms. However if something is not reading good, that may throw the motor into a fail-safe condition limiting rpms to ~2k rpms until the problem is corrected, and that reading is normal.

Many boats do use 4- blade props (if properly set-up), but generally for getting quicker "hole-shots" to get going. As I said, 2 blade props were for top-end speeds (racing), 4-blades for loads, quick take-offs, and 3-blades to give the best low and top-end response.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

[Importkillerrr]

Generally the sensors are more temp related since around the latter '80s? More so than flow related. The initial signals/beeping may be related to sequential starting-up procedures. The timing of audible beeps turning off when tell-tale flows, I believe is coincidence of timing, how long it takes to initialize sensors/other readings?
Sorry, the monitor guage is what's connected through the system, but more so as indicator lights just for information as to what's going on. The tach just reads the rpms. However if something is not reading good, that may throw the motor into a fail-safe condition limiting rpms to ~2k rpms until the problem is corrected, and that reading is normal.

Many boats do use 4- blade props (if properly set-up), but generally for getting quicker "hole-shots" to get going. As I said, 2 blade props were for top-end speeds (racing), 4-blades for loads, quick take-offs, and 3-blades to give the best low and top-end response.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Tomorrow my son and I will be going back up to lake hopatcong to try it out. If you listen closely around 7am est you may just hear me yelling hopefully it was just an overpropped issue and everything will be a-ok... Lol.

If I get out there and still have issues is there's anything I should check BEFORE taking the boat back off the water? Remember, it's over an hour drive one way for me to get back to water to test anything. If you're curious about this reading while doing that and it needs to be in water to test, please let me know now. I'll bring my multimeter and a basic tool kit with me just in case.

Solar and Murray...Thank you for your help this far!!

[Importkillerrr]

Also, I had a question.... Back in the day when I was running a performance Bass boat I used low water nose cones and hydraulic jack plates and we all ran custom made aluminum hydrofoils from a guy named Brian down in Louisiana, they were called Brian foils,I think he still sells them online.

I had a foil laying around my shop so I threw it on the Suzuki. It fit perfectly and seemed to do is job but I've never ran one on a heavy bass boat with a normal 150hp engine. I'm thinking I should wait until I get it to run like it should before I start adding stuff to it but Im also running a lot more weight than it did in 1991. A starting battery and 3 deep cycle batteries for a36v trolling motor adds weight quickly. With that added weight a hydrofoil might be needed to keep the back deck carpet dry when coming down off plane.

Do you guys think I should run the foil or take it off?

[Importkillerrr]

I didn't get to go to the lake Friday, life got on the way.
I was able to run the engine on muffs in the driveway though. I could NEVER get the motor to run on muffs before, just wouldn't get any water pressure so I bought a trough to use as a test tank. I read a thread about blocking off the other water intake ports on the lower unit with duct tape to build up the water pressure and holy shit!!! It worked!!
I ran it on muffs and it easily went up in rpm range,4k....5k... Even hit rev limiter easily. No load of course but I feel much better about things

[artdf175]

are you using an engine interface cable to see okay to see info on your a MFD.

[Moonlighter]

Don’t forget guys, this is an old DT…. A 2 stroke. No fancy interface cables and digital gauges LOL!

[Importkillerrr]

Ok... We took the boat out yesterday. That hour and a half drive to the lake sure was an anxious one!! Starting cold (44 degrees yesterday morning) was better than it ever started before. Once we primed the bulb it started and idled like a dream. Idled through the no wake zone without a hiccup.

Got to the no wake bouys and rolled into the throttle and it jumped right out of the hole onto the pad and it ran better than I could of imagined. Then it didn't.

After running wot for a hundred yards or so it fell on its face back down to 3000 rpm. Trimming wouldn't help anything, the motor wasn't bogging or missing it felt like it was being held back it then shut off like I turned the key. It would restart but wouldn't go over 3k.

I then remembered that a few years ago when I restored the boat I replaced the safety clip thing that you clip to your life jacket. Not just the clip, I wired in a complete new one into the control box because the old one was missing. I pulled the clip to turn off the engine to confirm it was working. I grabbed the button with plyers and worked it fully in and out a few times because it looked like it wasn't allowing the clip to fully seat. Small pieces of plastic fell out allowing the clip to fully be inserted now.

My son went to the back deck and said the fuel bulb was soft and empty so he squeezed it until he felt fuel flowing through it when he squeezed. Motor started and I never had another issue all day. It ran at around 40mph@ 4600rpm all day long. It was a dream day after the rough beginning.

Thank you to all for the help!!