DT225 pulser coil voltage output -No spark or Tach movement-2003

[seaox230c]

Lost my spark overnight with 23 prev years of no issues. Also lost tach. Followed factory manual verified no volts on yellow black wire from ICU. Got used one supposedly good same result. Checked EVERY input to icu found no issues except pulsers(all 3). All 3 pulsers and gear counting coil reads a little over 210 ohm. ( factory spec) With counting coil disc it reads a little over 5v when cranking (factory spec). All 3 pulsers only put out 1v or less while cranking..? How can that be. Going to pull rotor off later to look.....Regular RH Thread or backeard LH Thread on rotor nut...thanks

[artdf175]

Before you start tearing it apart - please read the Sticky relating to the "white wire" problem
Art

[seaox230c]

yes thanks. Both fuses are intact and all gauges except tach work. Have verified 12v into the icu through the grey wire and power into the injector ecu. Trim tilt and crank all function. as does the buzzer...no failure lights after the 3 second light test. I also have 12v output from the yellow wire from ecu all the way up to the tach yellow connector. Have tried another tach. Fuel pump relay energizes and fuel pump runs for the 2 or 3 seconds after "on" Hung a new plug on cyl 1 and 2 grounded to block-no spark and the motor never even coughs or sputters. fuel sheen in water after cranking. Had the rotor off and checked every wire and coil found nothing out of spec

[artdf175]

Couple of things to inspect
check the emergency stop switch on the remote-- the one lanyard is fastened to..
and then the shift neutral switch where the shift cables are located under the engine cover
In the manual read the " start-in-gear protection system"
Art

[seaox230c]

Yes first thing i did was check the kill switch itself...the 2 wires show open with the clip installed and shorted together with the clip removed. I disconnected it just in case. As far as i can tell from the prints, unless i missed something the neutral safety switch only disengages the start / crank function and it will not crank if out of neutral. i also checked the disable wire (blue/red) that kills the cdi. Shorted to ground with ignition off or kill switch activated...shows open with kill switch normal and the ignition switch in on or start. I also checked the overheat switch shows open but i disconnected it just in case. Also checked the oil level switch and the low oil flow switch all show open. Only problem was the low oil reset switch...shows open and does not short when pressed. I disconnected it and jumped those 2 wires together just to possibly cancel an oil problem shutdown...even though my oil level shows 3 green boxes and displays no fault lights after the light test function ends I run dual group 27 batteries and i charge them back up to full after every day of troubleshooting and cranking so they both have a full charge...All ignition capacitor charge coils show basically spec resistances as do all my 3 pulsers and the counting coil. I have cleaned every connector and ground...starting to get frustrated

[Moonlighter]

Note this is a DT model. 2 stroke.

[Solarman]

Should be regular RH thread. I would check flywheel key, also magnets, then each individual charging coil/pulse coil with flywheel off by service manual. It sounds like you have lost your low-speed-charging coil?

Use wiring diagram to identify those coils.

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

[seaox230c]

The flywheel key is intact...all magnets are intact..changed out flywheel with dads old one...same part number..no help. All charging coils read proper resistance. Built a replacement harness to swap coils outputs polarity. no help...kills me that it died overnight with no obvious elec symptoms....can someone tell me if their tach moves during cranking...i never looked because it always started within a second or two...to help..please pull kill switch so it doesn't light off...do you get a tach needle bounce..thanks

[Solarman]

Normally the first coil that went bad for me was the gear counting coil, got a reading, but it was slightly off from the manual, tried replacing and was shocked at how much better it ran. The position of that coil is equally critical, it has to read each tooth of the flywheel. The Trottle Valve Sensor and gear counting coil dictate the timing. If either of these are not in spec with the service manual, they should be replaced.

You might try changing/switching the tach "poles" back and forth a few times, just put it back where it was originally. That fixed my tach when it quit working, may be a little carbon build-up?

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

[seaox230c]

Will try even though I put in a different tach. Will that just kill the tach or take out the ignition spark with it...its a dual problem

[Solarman]

I think tach is a separate problem, just happened at same time? But I don't know if continuity through the tach is a part of the computers sequence of checks before initiating the signal to start?

I do know that if the gear counting coil or the TPS, or in your case TVS, is not in specs, your timing will be out of position?

Good luck, post back on what you find.

[seaox230c]

just to be on same page...I have NO spark on any coil...and the tach went out same time as far as I know.......one day all normal, next day will not start-no tach needle bump at all and no spark

[seaox230c]

So the first thing i did after my problem ( verified no spark and no tach bump) was to check the kill switch and the ignition switch..all ok. Pulser and counting coils all within spec resistance and all wiring intact. Output voltages from said coils close to factory specs...exactly the same as when tested 12 years ago for a different issue.. service manual calls for a engine rotation system test out of the ICU...Yellow/ black wire to ground..look for 12v when cranking...no good only about 1-1.5 V. Tried " knowngood" ICU....SAME RESULT. Cannot confirm known good. Tested EVERY wire and sensor feeding the ICU. 27 of them..All show proper operation. Tried spare tach and rotor head..no change disconnected tach/ engine warning gauge no help...tried spare ign switch..no help. Every power coil under the rotor ( battery charging and ignition charging coils all proper resistance) tried " known good" CDI..no change. Tested/ disconnected/jumpered oil level...oil flow ...overheat...cyl wall temp...no change. Verified no spark by hanging a new plug and jumpered to a good ground on multiple cyls..no spark. HP fuel pump runs for 2 sec on power up and fuel rainbow in water after cranking..white wire fuses verified good and powered. Warning gauge shows no failures or faults unless I intentionally disable a sensor...looks like im back to another ICU