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df175 loss of oil?

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  • #46
    I forgot to tell you when you do a percentage leak by test, you must get each cyl on tdc compression and either lock the engine so when you put air on the cyl it does not push the piston down the cyl or only put around ten pound of pressure on it otherwise it will push the piston to the bottom of the cyl and the vave will be open.

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    • #47
      Red thank you
      I will find an extension someplace for the oil pressure fitting
      When I did the leak down, you are right, I might not have had the piston at tdc.. I was looking at the valve cams as a guide to when both sides should have been closed -- I will pay closer attention to that and locking it down makes sense..
      I was very surprised on the intake valve clearances. Just doesn't make sense to me that the clearances are so tight on that side --the #2 may not even be closing all the way- I could not even get the smallest feeler to work on that one.

      question re valve shims.. is it standard for factory to put some standard sized shim -or- do they actually check and put different size shims in?
      I am guessing that I will have to pull out each shim and check what size each one is in order to order the correct replacement. -what has been your experience?

      Thanks again for your input and will be reporting back progress
      Art..

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      • #48
        Originally posted by artdf175 View Post
        question re valve shims.. is it standard for factory to put some standard sized shim -or- do they actually check and put different size shims in?
        I am guessing that I will have to pull out each shim and check what size each one is in order to order the correct replacement. -what has been your experience?
        Hi Art,
        The factory checks the clearance on each valve as the engine is assembled and shims accordingly. Machining is just not precise enough to use a single "standard" shim. So yes you do have to pull each shim where the adjustments need doing to see what size shim is used, then purchase replacements accordingly. Best to make yourself a little chart, so you can remember which goes where.
        Also, hopefully one of the shims that you have to pull will be considerably thinner than the ones on the intake with zero clearance, so you can put one of the skinnier shims there to facilitate measuring for the correct shim.
        Last edited by Harper; 11-12-2013, 04:47 PM.
        Mike
        μολὼν λαβέ

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        • #49
          I received a lot of help on this problem and thank everyone that had some input
          Recap. Used a lot of oil
          Dealer put engine cleaner through motor. Cleaned a lot of carbon out but didn't fix problem
          Checked valve clearances ---very shocked that every one All 16 valves were way out of spec in fact one intake valve was negative
          Put oil additive 'Restore' in with oil. Ran motor this spring for about 22 hours
          Couple of weeks ago warmed up motor. Drained. Replaced filter and filled with 25-40 weight oil
          Two weeks ago got 2 hours running time
          Very surprised and pleased to find dip stick was showing no loss
          2 hours before was down a good 5/8 inch with 2 hrs
          A few more hours will be more telling but so far a bit more than pleased with results
          Many thanks to Harper Redlowery and moonlighter- names that come to the top of the list
          Thanks again
          Art

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          • #50
            burning oil problem --update

            This is how i started this thread a long time ago..only a little procrastination
            Finally found a dealer I can trust

            after one more go around with checking pressure and leak down.. low cylinder piressure and would not hold cylinder pressure at all in the leak down test...

            so Engine in parts on his work table
            #3 & #4 cylinders definately letting oil by #1 &#2 not conclusive
            one exhaust valve on both #1 &#3 look to have a piece of the edge missing (very small but visible) one valve looked out of line -probably bent.
            mechanic is working on most cost effective way to rebuild this thing
            Art




            Originally posted by artdf175 View Post
            I have a 2006 DF 175
            bought bot in 2008 with 25 hours on meter now 488 hours
            has used oil from the start. ..just thought it was because not broken in
            however continues to lose oil
            12 hour fishing trip used 1 1/2 quarts
            dealer said it should not use more thand 1/2 qt in 100 hours
            dealer was thinking the plugs should be black if it was by-passing rings
            plugs were white with about 88 hours on new plugs
            have run in driveway.. no oil slick
            no obvious oil in center of prop where it exhausts
            no oil slick when I put it the water to go fishing
            pulled the cover off to look for leaks.. found nothing.
            Any ideas where the oil could be going or what to look for will be appreciated
            Art...

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