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Suzuki 140 Fuel system hell

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  • Suzuki 140 Fuel system hell

    I recently cleaned and replaced the entire fuel system including the fuel vapor separator after it was contaminated with water. I had the fuel injectors serviced by Injector Renew and replaced the seals and gaskets. After re assembling the system, when I attempt to start the engine, it starts and immediately cuts out. I am out of ideas and am hoping someone could give me some perspective on what the issue might be? I thank you all in advance for your help.

  • #2
    lift the warm up lever and open the throttle, the iac might not be bypassing enough air.

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    • #3
      Not sure that you have a warm up lever....you're referring to a 140 four stroke, right? In any case, see if you can keep it running by doing as red said.....try seeing if you are able to keep it running by opening the throttle a tad after starting. You might try cleaning the IAC with some throttle body cleaner. Also check wiring (white wire) and battery cables for clean terminals, batteries fully charged, etc. Even if your batteries seem fully charged, any lack of voltage will cause your ECM to shut it down within seconds after an otherwise successful start.
      Mike

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      • #4
        Thank you both for the help. I was able to get it started by opening the throttle at the start. The engine will run at a high idle but shuts down when brought back down to an idle. Also, when I up the revolutions to 3k, the engine automatically starts to bog down.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ALINSPECT View Post
          Thank you both for the help. I was able to get it started by opening the throttle at the start. The engine will run at a high idle but shuts down when brought back down to an idle. Also, when I up the revolutions to 3k, the engine automatically starts to bog down.
          It is normal for the engine to not rev up over 3k in neutral. It has a rev limiter in neutral. It sounds like you may have an IAC idle air control problem.

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          • #6
            Let me start by telling what I previously failed to say that this is a 2008 DF140 and again I thank all for your help and input. It wasn't in neutral but disengaged so that it's possible to rev up past 3k rpm, let further explain probably my frustration although I am not a mechanic as my actual field and expertise is in construction but I studied aviation mechanics as a young man and have always maitained my vehicles and boats this is actualy my son's boat and it is a problem that has been going on for almost four years after three mechanics and a local boat manufacturer I decided to take on the task. I can dissasemble and replace but when it comes to troubleshooting this new electronic technology i'm at a loss. this forum is awsome and I can't thank anyone of you enough for your help, even if it take aquiring some equipment I'm willing if it is within my reach thanks again.
            AL

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            • #7
              I agree with the others. I would check the IAC valve. If it is malfunctioning, the motor will idle rough, and sometimes not at all.
              -Shawn

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              • #8
                df140, '08, running issues

                You mentioned ” cleaning and replacing” vapor separator assy. Did you replace needle valve and seat (trash can block the backside of this valve seat)? Did you replace/clean the filter at the bottom of the high pressure pump. Check float setting? Did you replace the fuel regulator, or check for proper fuel pressure at injector fuel rail?
                If the IAC isn't the problem I might check these items above too.
                Just thoughts, good luck.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ALINSPECT View Post
                  It wasn't in neutral but disengaged so that it's possible to rev up past 3k rpm, ....AL
                  Hi Al,

                  I believe that when you say "disengaged" you mean that you have pushed the shift cable release so that you can increase the RPMs by advancing the throttle lever and not spin the prop. Just so you understand, there are two neutral switches, one on the remote binnacle, and one on the motor itself. By "disengaging" so you can increase the throttle without spinning the prop, you are still in neutral and the RPMs will still be limited (the engine neutral switch surely indicates a neutral condition, and the switch on the binnacle might also). Now if you're talking about bogging when trying to push beyond 3000 RPM while running the boat, then that's an entirely different matter and yes, it is a problem.
                  Last edited by Harper2; 12-30-2014, 04:00 PM.
                  Mike

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