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2006 SUZUKI DF140 4 STROKE stall

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  • #31
    The problem of the corroded engine holder plug is that when it corrodes through, it lets hot, burnt exhaust gas out into the engine bay, where it is trapped under the cowl and is sucked into the engine instead of clean air. Because the engine isn't getting clean air, it runs progressively worse as the hole gets bigger. The second problem it brings is the possibility of burnt wiring adjacent to where the inevitable hole is.

    If there are already signs of corrosion appearing on yours, by all means, get it replaced/fixed, but unless it is leaking exhaust gases it won't be the problem with your engine.

    From what I've seen and read, there's a fair chance that, despite testing OK, your problem is likely related to the IAC valve. See if the dealer has one that they can even temporarily swap out.

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    • #32
      okay will do its been a nightmare for us had it to 4 shopd spent 4k and it still having issues. If i leave it for a month i can start it several times but once its gets warm in the water it wont start.

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      • #33
        Sounds to me like it might be a CKP sensor that's acting weird but not registering as bad? Is that possible?

        Think I'll stick with 2 strokes. Lol
        Last edited by Solarman; 04-09-2016, 05:48 PM.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Solarman View Post
          Sounds to me like it might be a CKP sensor that's acting weird but not registering as bad? Is that possible?

          Think I'll stick with 2 strokes. Lol
          An inductive crank sensor works similar to a cdi with the magnets in the flywheel. Only on this engine, in one revolution the ecu want's to see thirty four trigger signals, if it doe's not, it should switch the check engine light on and use information from the camshaft sensor. I shake my head in disbelieve that this simple problem has not been fixed. I don't know what sought of mechanics have been looking at this engine, but must not have a clue on how to fix the most simplest fuel injected engine with electronic ignition.

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          • #35
            Yes i agree very frustrating, 2 of the ships were Suzuki facilties. I have a new mechanic working on it now i will forward your comments.

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            • #36
              2006 DF140 Restart Issues

              Okay so is the suggestion here to try and replace the CPK sensor? tks.

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              • #37
                oops thats a CKP sensor

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                • #38
                  Mate do you know how to use a digital multimeter, if you do I can help, if you can't take it to an auto electrician and he will find your problem in one hour, providing it is mechanically sound.

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                  • #39
                    Sorry no i, it is at a Outboard shop now i have spent a fortune on this thing. I just had it out today as it seemed like the problem had cone away and had to spend another 400 getting towed back in its a nightmare. If i get the shop to email you directly would that be okay is there a direct email address to do this i would gladly pay if we can get this sorted out.

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                    • #40
                      i have to go and move the boat right now but will be back in an hr.

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                      • #41
                        Did you ever find out what was wrong with your engine? I have a 2004DF 115 with the exact same problem. It runs fine when you start it up for the first time, but if you turn it off after it's heated up it takes a full minute of cranking to get it started. It will start to hit on one cylinder and then onto and then finally it will come to life and run fine. I know you were not supposed to crank the starter motor for more than eight seconds, but when you're out at sea it's tempting to do whatever it takes to get the motor running again.

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                        • #42
                          In your work shop manual Suzuki recommends not to crank the engine for more than 30 seconds at a time. If you have to crank the engine for more than 8 seconds there is obviously something wrong, if your engine will start and run fine until you turn it off, and won't start after it is hot, will usually be something simple like too much or not enough fuel being injected, or not enough air bypassing the throttle plate based on information from various sensors.
                          the problem could be as simple as the iac valve not bypassing enough air, you can lift your warm up leaver and open the throttle and see if that makes the engine easier to start if it does, I will tell you some things to check.

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                          • #43
                            I have the exact same symptoms with a 2006 DF140 I purchased last year. From a cold start it will start and run smoothly. When trying to restart after it warms up, it will turn over but will not run. I have replaced my plugs and just swapped out the MAP sensor but it did not fix the issue. All plugs are firing but after only a few starts they look fouled/black. It looks as if I am over fueling but I wonder if perhaps I am not getting enough fire due to bad coil packs. I plan on replacing them next. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.
                            Last edited by bdb333; 06-09-2021, 07:12 PM.

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                            • #44
                              *Note: I have had this at three different shops to diagnose, the last being a Suzuki dealership. The Suzuki dealership said it was fixed and good to go, only needed spark plugs, lol. Brought it home and put it in my water tank to test, same results, they fixed nothing.

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                              • #45
                                I always tell people with engine running problems and cyl misfires, pull the plugs and have a look, there’s usually a tell tale sign.
                                You have given two clues your problem, one it starts and runs alright when cold, won’t start when hot.
                                Two the plugs look black like it’s running rich, over fueling, there could be a number of reasons for that.
                                The first thing that comes to mind is the coolant temp sensor voltage is not dropping as the engine engine warms up. Depending on ambient temp the signal voltage on a cold engine will be between 3.5 and 4 volts as the engine gets hot the voltage will drop below 1 volt.
                                I think the computer is still injecting cold start fuel when the engine is hot.
                                Simple to test set the engine up in the tub connect a multimeter to the temp sensor on the light green and white wire, slip a thin needle down the side of the connector pos probe to needle black to a good ground.
                                Turn key on note voltage, start the engine and the voltage should drop as the engine heats up, if the voltage does not change bingo.
                                Do the same test to the exhaust temp sensor.
                                If the voltages drop to below l volt when hot they are not the problem.
                                Come back on the forum with your results.
                                If your engine starts and runs fine cold l don’t think there is much wrong there could be numerous things that can make the engine run rich, start there and l will show you how to test sensors rather than just replace and hope.

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