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2010 suzuki 25hp v-twin problem

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  • #16
    When using 5x magnification, it should look like a cleaned shotgun barrel when done. I can't think of anything else to compare it to. If it isn't shiny like a gun barrel, it still has gas residue/gumming in it. Keep cleaning.

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    • #17
      As you describe in the link you posted: "He can hold it up to a light and verify that all the little holes are clean. The holes are drilled through the side also, don't fall for the big hole in the center being clean."
      Which jet is this, i understand it's the one in the middle of the 3, under this rubber cap...? The one i posted picture of...?

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      • #18
        I think parts 2 and 3 on the carb diagram. Mostly part 2 that has all the little holes. I'm using this diagram https://www.boats.net/catalog/suzuki...001/carburetor

        I'm working from memory here, I'm sorry if I get the details wrong. I haven't had mine apart since last year. I do know that it takes me about 5 minutes to strip the carb, 20 minutes in carb cleaner. 15 miutes to put it all back together. The passages on these jets are so small it doesn't take much to block them. I can't get ethanol free gas so I have to clean mine a lot. You really need to use magnification to confirm they are clean.

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        • #19
          Is there suppose to be an air filter in here..? Could it be that it is missing some resistans..? When i hold my hand over half of the intake on the carburator, it runs fine...

          Attached Files

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          • #20
            My cover has just the screen. If choking it off makes it run, you have an air leak somewhere. Get all new gaskets and rebuild the carb. Make sure the top and bottom plates go back on square. Tighten screws in a crisscross pattern. I replaced the rubber cap over the mid jet last time and it ran noticeably better. There are not that many rubber parts in the carb. Maybe 4 or 5? There are two paper gaskets on the spacer that mounts the carb to manifold. I have not been able to find a rebuild kit, you have to order individual parts.

            No word for awhile. I figured you fixed it and went fishing of put a bullet in it and walked away.

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            • #21
              It's possible that the small fuel, and/or air passages in the carb throat/body have a build-up that need to be soaked then blown out with good air pressure. Air pressure is the best way to clean all those jets and the tiny air/fuel passages, but only after a good soaking in carb cleaner.

              Do not remove/change any linkages to soak carbs.
              After soaking and blowing carb clean, replace all jets to service manual specs. All carbs idle air mixture jets are set identically at factory (this is why they only give "one" setting for multiple carbs in the manual), and always remove the float needle valve seat, in case trash is restricting fuel entering carbs (When blowing all the small/ large passages, wrap carb with clean white rag to capture any trash/debris to identify if something else may be breaking-down, needing attention?). When re-installing needle valve seat, always reset float level to manual specs.

              Partially covering the air intake for motor to run fine is a sign of fuel restriction, or poor output from low pressure fuel pump.

              If proper soaking, and cleaning carbs doesn't correct the problem, post back to let us know.

              Good luck.

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              • #22
                Thanx for good answers last year i tryed to fix it, i bought a new (slightly used) carb, and it acts Just the same. So i figured the carb is not the problem.. But i still can't figur out what Else to try.. Maby Just put a plate with small holes on the air intake or run it over with nomething heavy..

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                • #23
                  Are the two gaskets installed between the carb, spacer and intake? Same problem with two carbs? Maybe check the valve adjustment. Might have a tight intake valve that is making it run bad.

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                  • #24
                    Btw, i have tryed to spray some start gas (?) while Rynning to see if there is a air leak somewhere.. Nothing to find..

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                    • #25
                      Yes, 2 gaskets. Valve gaps cheked, all good..

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                      • #26
                        If you have soaked and cleaned the carbs, as I described in my earlier post, then you should inspect the low pressure fuel pump(s) to see if providing enough fuel.

                        Putting a plate with holes in it does not solve your problems.

                        Have you checked compression on this motor?

                        Maybe you should run an additive with your fuel to keep your carbs/fuel system clean.

                        Good luck, post back on what you find out?

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                        • #27
                          Brand new fresh fuel has solved problems in the past. You have to drain the float bowl and as much of the lines as possible. My engine once ran for almost 10 minutes at idle on just the fuel in the bowl and whatever it could get out of the fuel line. You could have a fuel line that collapses under suction pressure. Could be a bad check valve in fuel line bulb. Compression check will rule out bad cylinder.

                          Do the carb cleaner trick. With engine running, you spray a shot of carb cleaner on the joints in the intake system and see if revs up or dies.

                          If it runs ok with the intake blocked some, you have an air leak somewhere after the carb.

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