Suzuki DF60 2004 Won't go above 3000 rpms No error codes

[Moonlighter]

************************************************** **************

Can you forward me the service bulletin about re-routing the powers supply for the interface cable?
Thanks...
While reading these posts about wiring issues. I herd the wind pick uot outside. then i realized my 3 speed ceiling fan just jumped from second speed to third. I dont know how. It is pull string activated. spooky

Its not relevant. Applied to DF90-140 2010/11 year engines only.

[timf1981]

The light didn’t light up on any parts of the white wire/pin29

Did go2ski ever find a solution?

[timf1981]

So it would be 1.7 volts with the map sensor disconnected and the key on, which is no good must be 4 volts. I had a look on your sds and I could see the barometric value and see that you were at sea level. If you had a short to ground in that white wire from pin 29 to the map sensor plug I would think it would pull that voltage to zero, easy to test, with the computer plug and the map sensor plug disconnected connect a test light to battery pos and probe pin 29 white wire if it is shorted to ground the test light will light up.

Did go2ski ever find a solution?

[timf1981]

I guess I am still suspicious about the switch Red!

Im not aware of too many other conditions that dont throw a fault code that would be stored on ecu that would limit rpm to about 3000rpm? Especially if things like spark plugs have been changed and fuel flow/pressure verified to be OK. Not sure if he has addressed those issues though?

The only other thing I can offer apart from your suggestion re throttle not fully opening is a low voltage issue to the ecu - not long after I added NMEA2000 interface to my engine, we had the intermittent issue with no acceleration past 3000rpm on occasion, and it turned out to be a false low voltage signal somehow caused by the interface connection to the ecu that threw it into safe mode and limited rpm. It felt very doughy even below that rpm. Re-routed power supply for the interface cable to a different source as per the Service Bulletin they subsequently issued, problem solved.

So perhaps there could be a bad wiring connection to the ecu or something? Bad white wire?

************************************************** **************

Can you forward me the service bulletin about re-routing the powers supply for the interface cable?
Thanks...
While reading these posts about wiring issues. I herd the wind pick uot outside. then i realized my 3 speed ceiling fan just jumped from second speed to third. I dont know how. It is pull string activated. spooky

[timf1981]

White wire sticky

https://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/...-power-failure

Looks like i have some reading to do.
. Its been a while since i delt with my NMEA 2000 wiring. It took me a while to get it working and wiring it like most did , did not work for me. I needed to switch two of the four wires to make it work.
Here is what i posted last night.

2017 DF25ATL2 with remote control

2 years ago, every once in a while i would be driving along in my 16.5ft Alumicraft Escape . And the rpms would cut back to 3000 rpms.
The engine would run just fine like this but would not go over 3000 rpms when it had been cruising along at 5200 rpms.
The first time it happened i was on a large lake in Northern Minnesota. At the time i didnt dare turn it off for fear of not starting.
I made it to camp . After turning off the engine and restarting it ran fine. Even at 5200 rpms.
So i went back and set up camp. Later that day i went out fishing. After hitting a couple of spots close by i decided to head to the next bay. I was cruising at 5200 rpms when again the motor just cut back to 3000 rpms. If i shut the motor off and restarted it would idle good, and might get back up to 5200 rpms for a while then just cut back to 3000 rpm , still running just fine.

I limped around like this for three days. Sometimes cruising at 5200 rpms for long distances then it would start acting up.
When i got home i put my ebay suzuki scanner on it and had no codes. BPR scanner i believe.
While up at the lake despite having fresh gas for the trip. i flushed new gas thru the system and cleaned both filters. No change. After getting back home to Minneapolis i flushed it again.
Went out on the lake to watch some fireworks. It cut back three times before getting a quarter mile.
The next time out a buzzed around our lake for an hour. , It ran fine at 5200 rpm.
The boat was used little if any the rest of the year. The next year i took it out on a nearby lake and buzzed around for an hour with no issues. the next week took it back up north. It ran fine the first day but the second day it ran good for ten minutes then cut back to 3000 rpm. No codes, no buzzing that i can recall. I dont remember checking the three lights on the engine. I know, my bad

A new symptom popped up recently. Occasionally i get no crank when i turn the key. I can always get it started by shifting it out of neutral and back in, and it will start.

QUESTIONS...
1. Is there a neutral switch on the engine as well as in the remote control?
2. Will not resetting the oil change alarm, trigger the cut back to 3000 rpm? I have done all my own maintenance and did not know about the reset procedure. Should this set a code?
Last year i did put a oil pressure gauge in place of the Oil pressure switch and i had good pressure at idle. I dont think i read the pressure at 5200 rpm.

3. The dealer recently gave me a laminated card with the reset code for the remote. I was told the engine would beep after doing the reset procedure. Mine did not beep. can anyone test there engine to see if theirs beeps every time even if you reset it three times in a minute. I have not bussed around after the reset.

4. I believe some larger suzuki outboards have two neutral safety switches. One on the motor and one in the controller. If i am cruising along at 5200 rpms and 17 mph and the neutral switch were to open up, would the computer limit the engine to 3000 rpm and if so would it throw a code?

5. Is there a neutral switch adjustment on the controller? Or is the switch just a replacement item? Is this tricky to take apart

here is the controller i have....
https://www.crowleymarine.com/suzuki...25at-p03?ref=7

6 The outfitter i sleep at before putting in in the morning has the same motor as I do, I am not sure if the year is the same. He had his high pressure fuel pump replaced. But i dont think we had quite the same symptoms.


So did i
A....chase an issue for two years when a simple oil reminder reset would have solved it?
B....Or is it a loose neutral switch in the controller that is now giving me two symptoms? C....Or is it really my hi pressure fuel pump?
D.... none of the above?

Here is the updated fuel pump part number for my engine.
15200-94L11 and have found it at these 6 locations. Are there any sellers here you would stay away from?

Browns point $376
Precision marine $345
Boat.net $367
PartsVu $342
PPT performance product technologies $338
Marine parts source $334

What other information would you like?

[Murray]

White wire sticky

https://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/...-power-failure

[timf1981]

I guess I am still suspicious about the switch Red!

Im not aware of too many other conditions that dont throw a fault code that would be stored on ecu that would limit rpm to about 3000rpm? Especially if things like spark plugs have been changed and fuel flow/pressure verified to be OK. Not sure if he has addressed those issues though?

The only other thing I can offer apart from your suggestion re throttle not fully opening is a low voltage issue to the ecu - not long after I added NMEA2000 interface to my engine, we had the intermittent issue with no acceleration past 3000rpm on occasion, and it turned out to be a false low voltage signal somehow caused by the interface connection to the ecu that threw it into safe mode and limited rpm. It felt very doughy even below that rpm. Re-routed power supply for the interface cable to a different source as per the Service Bulletin they subsequently issued, problem solved.

So perhaps there could be a bad wiring connection to the ecu or something? Bad white wire?

can you walk me thru how you saw the low voltage to the ecu with the NMEA2000 connected? i have the nmea connected and i am having the 3000 rpm issue.
and a occasional no crank issue most likely connected with the neutral switch, i move the gear selector back and forth and it starts. The no crank is a new issue the 3000 rpm issuesis 2 years old.

And what is the "white wire" is see you mentioning?

i just updated my post and commented on one of your comments tonight,

Maybe you can write up a "3000 max rpm " post/Sticky
Thanks...

[go2ski]

The light didn’t light up on any parts of the white wire/pin29

[redlowrey]

So it would be 1.7 volts with the map sensor disconnected and the key on, which is no good must be 4 volts. I had a look on your sds and I could see the barometric value and see that you were at sea level. If you had a short to ground in that white wire from pin 29 to the map sensor plug I would think it would pull that voltage to zero, easy to test, with the computer plug and the map sensor plug disconnected connect a test light to battery pos and probe pin 29 white wire if it is shorted to ground the test light will light up.

[go2ski]

Pin 29 and the white wire pin for the map sensor have no resistance. When I test the voltage am I back probing pin 29 and putting the other multimeter wire to ground. If so it gave me around 1.7 volts. And yes I’m at sea level.

[redlowrey]

What does not make sense with this problem, you say there is no voltage change on pin 29 signal wire no matter what you do, the computer must be sensing something because I can see the changes on your sds, I can see when you put it into gear engine running in the water, and I can see when you open the throttle and the manifold vacuum drops and injection increases and rpm increases to 2400 rpm, then I can see the manifold vacuum increase and injection decrease with the throttle in the wide open position.

You don't see a change in voltage, but if you remove the vacuum pipe from the sensor, the check engine light comes on when you start it, detecting a map sensor 2 code for an unchanging voltage, listening to the motor running you might think it has a fuel restriction but no port fuel injected engine could run like that with the throttle plate in the wide open position, plus if it was a fuel restriction on the sds with the throttle plate in the wide open position the manifold absolute pressure would be near 29 in hg and the injector opening time and amount would be at it's max, but it drops back to the part throttle delivery with the throttle wide open.

So if the wiring on pin 29 is fine, when you turn the key on, the computer is measuring the barometric pressure, the computer must be sensing some absolute manifold vacuum change and voltage change on pin 29, the map sensor circuitry in the computer must be failing. The reason the engine runs better out of the water is it only needs a fraction of the fuel it needs when it is in the water under load, that is why the rpm is higher.

I can't think of anything the computer would do to only allow 1.8 volts on that wire that should have around 4 with key on engine off. I cant get my head around how the engine runs when you are looking at the sds, it looks like the throttle is opening and closing, but going by the video the throttle is wide open.

[redlowrey]

You are at sea level aren’t you, not high up in the mountains. I did state you should see 4 volts at sea level.

[redlowrey]

I was originally going to get you to check all the voltages at the computer, that is where I check everything but I thought you may struggle with the pins because if you are not careful when you slide the needle past the pin if you push too far you will touch other circuits.

Now I know you know where pin 29 is check the voltage there with key on engine off and note the voltage.

[redlowrey]

There should be no resistance between pin 29 on the computer plug disconnected from the computer and the map sensor plug white wire disconnected from the map sensor.

Sensor ground is a shared ground with other sensors. The white signal wire comes out of the computer to the map sensor, so it should have zero ohms on it testing it with the computer plug disconnected and the map sensor disconnected.

What I can’t work out is you get no change in that signal voltage what ever you do, yet I can see it changing on your sds and the computer can sense it when you disconnect the map hose.

[go2ski]

I read the manual on testing the resistance on the harness and it didn’t say much about the map sensor so I tested the resistance of terminal 29 the map sensor to terminal 11 ground for sensors and got 1880 ohms which seemed way more than any of the other sensors. Just to make sure I tested the CMP sensors resistance and it fit within the range it said on the manual.